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Old 10-06-2021, 03:04 PM   #1
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What DC Voltage Do You Program AGS to Start

Just wondering what you all are programming voltage to start the auto generator at?
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Old 10-06-2021, 06:53 PM   #2
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The default is 11.0. Mine is set at 12.0, but I am going to back it off to 11.5. I put it up to 12.0, because the house batteries weren't holding a charge. I have since equalized the batteries, and they are now holding a charge. Interested at seeing more responses.
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Old 10-06-2021, 07:01 PM   #3
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What DC Voltage Do You Program AGS to Start

Quote:
Originally Posted by caflorin
The default is 11.0. Mine is set at 12.0, but I am going to back it off to 11.5. I put it up to 12.0, because the house batteries weren't holding a charge. I have since equalized the batteries, and they are now holding a charge. Interested at seeing more responses.

12.0 because that is about 50% discharged for any type of lead acid battery and that's about as low as you are supposed to take them. And I want to be certain they have enough power to start the generator.

But...I put two new AGM batteries in and they'll go about 7 hours with the inverter and a TV on. That's a problem because we sometimes leave the doggie inside. If the shore power goes off, no air conditioning for way too many hours.

So I'm thinking about changing it to 12.4 volts on trips to get the generator started faster to restore air conditioning.

We have a Georgetown but the same considerations exist on any coach.

Ray
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Old 10-06-2021, 07:32 PM   #4
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There is a temperature setting for the AGS. Never used it, but might be worth reading up on for the pups.
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Old 10-06-2021, 08:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caflorin
There is a temperature setting for the AGS. Never used it, but might be worth reading up on for the pups.
Our 2020 does not have that capability with the Precision Plex touchscreen, which is also the AGS system, just low house battery voltage. We have a 2020.0 and that was added with the 2020.5 Georgetowns.

I actually queried Precision Circuits about retrofitting that capability yesterday. They replied today that I would need about $1,600 in parts and would have to convert our Atwood heat pump/air conditioners to eliminate the real thermostats and run the HVAC systems from just the touchscreen.

That's a non-starter because their app for the Georgetown cannot control the HVAC systems. So all temperature and fan settings would need done from the touchscreen.

Right now we have IR remotes for the real thermostats so I can lie in bed and change the fan or temperature by feel with the remote control. Without getting blinded by a phone app or a touchscreen in the middle of the night. Or even having to sit up in bed much less having to walk over to the touchscreen.

Sometimes simpler and older can be more useful.

So yeah, this is an extremely timely thread for us.

Ray
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Old 10-06-2021, 08:49 PM   #6
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Using a good multimeter I found that when the OneControl shows 11.5 volts the actual voltage is 12.5. This is consistent, so I have the start limit set at 11 volts. I’ve let the batteries run down twice and the AGS activated at 12.0 and 12.1 volts according to the multimeter.

I think it’s best to verify the accuracy of the AGS system prior to setting the start value.
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:00 AM   #7
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Good point!
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caflorin View Post
The default is 11.0. Mine is set at 12.0, but I am going to back it off to 11.5. I put it up to 12.0, because the house batteries weren't holding a charge. I have since equalized the batteries, and they are now holding a charge. Interested at seeing more responses.
How do you "equalize" the batteries?
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:25 AM   #9
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I do this through my ME-RC Standard Remote Control Panel to my Magnasyne 2012-20 series inverter charger. I put all the related equipment in here in case you have a different set up. The action causes (here's the quote from the manual) "Equalize charging: Equalizing is a “controlled overcharge” performed after the batteries have been fully charged. It helps to mix the battery electrolyte (to reverse the buildup of stratification) and to remove sulfates that may have built up on the plates. These conditions if left unchecked, will reduce the overall capacity of the battery."

I checked the cells in my house batteries and noted that one cell had a low reading.

Recommend you check your specific equipment for how to equalize your batteries.
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Old 10-13-2021, 07:39 PM   #10
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I like what emm-dee said about checking the batteries with a good multi-meter. I've read several places 50% charge on a wet cell 12 volt battery (deep cycle) is 12.2 volts. Not that I know better but set mine at 12.0 volts to start, to reduce how often the generator starts.

I really like the safety aspect with a household refrigerator but really hate the amount of electricity and number of generator hours required to operate the refrigerator.
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:26 PM   #11
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The charge vs voltage charts are for a battery system under no load. The voltage will fall if a load is applied, of course.

This gives a rationale for setting the AGS to have the the generator start at something like 12 volts, even though that is below the 50% charge. That's because the battery running at 12.1 volts at no load (more than 50% charge) will drop to 12 volts or so when the fridge comes on, but still be at 50% charge.

I haven't done any systematic testing to see how much voltage drop I get in the batteries when the fridge comes on, so if someone does study this, it would be good to see the results.

–Gordon
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