12v Everchill always ices up

[CustomBuild]

Almost one year ago I posted on the problem of our refrigerator icing up but it has remained a monthly issue.

Usually we get around one month before the temperature in the refrigerator starts to creep up so we empty the ice box, remove the back panel, thaw the ice and start over for another month.

I guess there must be a defective sensor because apart from this icing issue the entire unit appears to work normally and I must add extremely well even when the outside temperatures go over 100.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a DIY fix?

The image is from 10 days ago and looking at the thermometers today I have a feeling the temperature is rising again.

[MGD1961]

So you know if your model has a defrost cycle? Some do some don’t

Also bad door seals with cause excessive frost buildup. Take a piece of paper. Close it in the door and slowly pull it out. Do this progressively around the door. If there is a spot with no resistance you have bad door seals.

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by CustomBuild

I guess there must be a defective sensor

Or board is not initiating defrost, defrost heater is open, a defrost thermal fuse or both is open, bad wire in circuit or bad connection in defrost circuit.

Wiring diagram is probably on the inside wall of the fresh food compartment. You can use it to ohm out the circuits.

Best DIY? A connection came apart.

Definitely a no defrost problem.

Edit: Best DIY? A connection came apart. Or hope for a board just needing to be rebooted. Pull the fuse for the refrigerator for a few minutes. Even attempt to turn it on with the fuse out to bleed off any residual electricity.

[CustomBuild]

Originally Posted by MGD1961

So you know if your model has a defrost cycle? Some do some don’t

Also bad door seals with cause excessive frost buildup. Take a piece of paper. Close it in the door and slowly pull it out. Do this progressively around the door. If there is a spot with no resistance you have bad door seals.

I recall from the marketing material that it is supposed to be auto defrost.

I tried the paper test on the door and the seals seem to have a good grip all the way around.

Thanks anyway for the suggestion.

[CustomBuild]

Originally Posted by GolfingDave

Or board is not initiating defrost, defrost heater is open, a defrost thermal fuse or both is open, bad wire in circuit or bad connection in defrost circuit.

Wiring diagram is probably on the inside wall of the fresh food compartment. You can use it to ohm out the circuits.

Best DIY? A connection came apart.

Definitely a no defrost problem.

Edit: Best DIY? A connection came apart. Or hope for a board just needing to be rebooted. Pull the fuse for the refrigerator for a few minutes. Even attempt to turn it on with the fuse out to bleed off any residual electricity.

I gave the reboot idea a try and may not know for a number of days if that has worked or not.

I had no idea there was a circuit diagram inside, but sure enough there it was hidden in plain sight. The part I've got most excited about is the reference to a "defrost heat thermal fuse" and that will be my next target.

However, that leads me on to the question of where might I find the main circuit board? I fear I'll need to pull the refrigerator out and check the back panel somewhere?

Thanks for your suggestions so far, I feel I'm finally on the road to solving it.

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by CustomBuild

I fear I'll need to pull the refrigerator out and check the back panel somewhere?

Looks like you should be able to check the freezer compartment defrost circuit putting a meter on the connectors there, easier. At least it looks like there are connectors.
Should have continuity through the two black wires with the connector off and an ohmmeter on it.

No idea what the sensor circuit is supposed to be but put an ohmmeter on the black and white leads for the sensor on the right in the plastic cage. Should be two different readings cold and warm. Wrap it in ice and warm it up with some warm water. Probably is designed to shut off the defrost anywhere from 45 to 60F so you do not need hot water.

This does not rule out the wiring from the board to the freezer though.

[CustomBuild]

Originally Posted by GolfingDave

Looks like you should be able to check the freezer compartment defrost circuit ..............

Thanks for the additional info. I'll try get to it over the next few days.

[tr mike]

CustomBuild, did you end up pulling the refrigerator out? I have the same issue. Forest River provided me with a new freeze sensor and a new circuit board. I tried the freeze sensor first. Installed it about 2 weeks ago. The freezer coils are now iced up again, indicating that the circuit board did not receive the message from the sensor that it should initiate defrost. So now it's time to remove the refrigerator and install the new circuit board. My question to you is, did you end up pulling the refrigerator out? And if so, are there any tips you can give me for doing this? Thank you. Note, my unit is a Magic Chef but it is the same unit.

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by tr mike

The freezer coils are now iced up again, indicating that the circuit board did not receive the message from the sensor that it should initiate defrost.

Could do that with a loose connection or broken wire also. Don't rule out signs of any corrosion on any connector either.
I would ohm out both the sensor circuit and the defrost circuit once you gain access to the board. Should have continuity through both. If not replacing the board will not help.

Can you post any P/N's on any boxes or on the boards/sensor?
Pictures of the stickers on any of the boxes of parts?

[CustomBuild]

Originally Posted by tr mike

CustomBuild, did you end up pulling the refrigerator out?

I haven't got to it yet even though I'm just about to empty it and de-ice again.

Please let us all know how you get on. I'll also update here once I get the job done. Hopefully next week.

[tr mike]

Ok. Still have to figure out how I'm going to remove the Refrigerator to gain access to the board.

[tr mike]

Just hired a mobile tech to help me pull it out and install the new circuit board. I'll have him check for continuity on sensor circuit and defrost circuit at that time. Fingers crossed that all is good and the new board does the trick. If not, we'll get a new one with our extended warranty.

[tr mike]

Here is a picture of the circuit board and freeze sensor as I received them.

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by tr mike

Here is a picture of the circuit board and freeze sensor as I received them.

Thanks. Numbers do not google though. Does not surprise me.

[tr mike]

Sorry that didn't help you. Mobile tech and I pulled the refrigerator and he installed the new circuit. Now we wait to see if it ices up again or if it auto defrost as it should.

[tr mike]

On Thursday, 6/27/24 the circuit board was replaced. On 6/30 I noticed a bit of frost on the back wall of the freezer. One day later the frost was gone. This tells me that the freeze sensor is communicating with the circuit board and going into defrost mode. In the past that frost would not dissipate and I would have to manually defrost the block of ice on the freezer coils. Problem solved...I hope!

[American Pie]

You never said how you set your Cold and Colder knob inside the freezer. Remember the Colder setting makes the freezer colder, not the fridge. It does so by closing off the duct between the freezer and the fridge, and usually causes the freezer coils to ice up. Subsequently the fridge gets too warm, because there's no cold air coming from the freezer.

[tr mike]

I know all about the settings. Yes have freezer set at cold, not colder. I believe the new circuit board wasn't the answer either. Freezer wall is frosting up again after less than 2 weeks! I believe I'm looking at having to replace this refrigerator. Mine forms an ice block exactly like the picture CustomBuild posted.

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by tr mike

Mine forms an ice block exactly like the picture CustomBuild posted.

That is frost not ice. There is a difference.
That picture looks like defrost has never been initiated since it is all frost.
If ice/icy that means the heater came on but shut off too soon. Or compressor stayed off too long and things melted and then refroze. Does not look like ice.

Originally Posted by tr mike

Mobile tech and I pulled the refrigerator and he installed the new circuit.

Did he check the circuits for continuity at the board terminals before installing a new board? Mentioned in post 9.

As for lack of air flow with the knobs causing the problem, I highly doubt it. They do not block off all the air flow. And even if they did a defrost cycle would be initiated before too much frost built up which it could easily melt off.

[tr mike]

Originally Posted by GolfingDave

That is frost not ice. There is a difference.
That picture looks like defrost has never been initiated since it is all frost.
If ice/icy that means the heater came on but shut off too soon. Or compressor stayed off too long and things melted and then refroze. Does not look like ice.



Did he check the circuits for continuity at the board terminals before installing a new board? Mentioned in post 9.

As for lack of air flow with the knobs causing the problem, I highly doubt it. They do not block off all the air flow. And even if they did a defrost cycle would be initiated before too much frost built up which it could easily melt off.

Here's my freezer coils 10 days after thawing out and installing the new circuit board. I believe this refrigerator is destined for the recycling heap.