A/C on cooling 3 degrees

[Darrell]

Coleman/Mach Model #48204-669 in a 2023 Rpod model 201

The unit had been cooling about 20 degrees cooler than the outside temperature even on days with 95 degrees and high humidity. That all changed
about 6 days ago when it started cooling only about 3 degrees in upper 80 degree days with moderate humidity. The unit is not freezing up, the inside air filters are clean and have been routinely cleaned about every 2 weeks. The outside coils are clean with no bent fins. There isn't any air bypassing the internal separator between the in and out air chambers.

Questions:
1)It is cooling a little, albeit 3 degrees and maybe 5 degrees at night. Would this mean there isn't a freon leak since a freon leak would mean no cooling?
2) If the thermostat is bad, could that cause this kind of problem? It seems like it would be easy to replace, if that is the problem but I'm not sure a bad thermostat could do this. I've tried it on Cool Hi, Cool Low and Cool Auto. All three give the same results.

I have a call in for the dealer to begin warranty work but since I'm in the middle of a trip, I anticipate a problem finding someone to work on it.

Thanks in advance.

[Bob K4TAX]

Originally Posted by Darrell

Coleman/Mach Model #48204-669 in a 2023 Rpod model 201

The unit had been cooling about 20 degrees cooler than the outside temperature even on days with 95 degrees and high humidity. That all changed
about 6 days ago when it started cooling only about 3 degrees in upper 80 degree days with moderate humidity. The unit is not freezing up, the inside air filters are clean and have been routinely cleaned about every 2 weeks. The outside coils are clean with no bent fins. There isn't any air bypassing the internal separator between the in and out air chambers.

Questions:
1)It is cooling a little, albeit 3 degrees and maybe 5 degrees at night. Would this mean there isn't a freon leak since a freon leak would mean no cooling?
2) If the thermostat is bad, could that cause this kind of problem? It seems like it would be easy to replace, if that is the problem but I'm not sure a bad thermostat could do this. I've tried it on Cool Hi, Cool Low and Cool Auto. All three give the same results.

I have a call in for the dealer to begin warranty work but since I'm in the middle of a trip, I anticipate a problem finding someone to work on it.

Thanks in advance.

If the return air and duct air are less than 10 degrees different, the system is most likely low on refrigerant.

Of course, many will say these are sealed units and can not be serviced. That is not exactly correct. Yes, they are sealed in as much as there are no Service Ports on the system.

Ours started cooling poorly. I contacted a local HVAC company. The technician came out, checked the system, and agreed it was low on refrigerant. He opened the low-pressure line, installed a Schrader valve, pulled a vacuum on the system, and re-charged it with about 2 lbs of R-410a refrigerant. The return air and duct air are now some 20 degrees different. The total price for the job is $185. It has been working great for now for 2 years. As to any leak, it must be very very small. It sure beats $1500+ for a new system. (With no assurance it won't have a slow leak.)

Bob

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

If the return air and duct air are less than 10 degrees different, the system is most likely low on refrigerant.

Of course, many will say these are sealed units and can not be serviced. That is not exactly correct. Yes, they are sealed in as much as there are no Service Ports on the system.

Agree that low refrigerant is most likely the problem.

My old Coleman MachIII quit cooling due to an obvious low refrigerant problem.

I decided to replace it rather than mess with the unit that I didn't like from the beginning (too noisy, poor cooling).

When I opened up my new Furion Chill HE unit to install the MicroAir Easy Start I was amazed at the difference in construction and the reason the Coleman system "went flat" became somewhat obvious.

The tube that the factory uses to vacuum system and install refrigerant on the Coleman unit was pinched about 1-1/2" from the end and then cut off an inch away from the crimp with a shear or diagonal cutters.. On the Furrion unit there was the same "pinch" but instead of cutting off the end and leaving it, the end of the tube was closed with Silver Solder. A truly sealed end.

With this in mind I seriously doubt there will be any issues with leaking refrigerant, at least in this area.

[Bob K4TAX]

The tube that the factory uses to vacuum system and install refrigerant on the Coleman unit was pinched about 1-1/2" from the end and then cut off an inch away from the crimp with a shear or diagonal cutters.. On the Furrion unit there was the same "pinch" but instead of cutting off the end and leaving it, the end of the tube was closed with Silver Solder. A truly sealed end.

With this in mind I seriously doubt there will be any issues with leaking refrigerant, at least in this area.[/QUOTE]

Well yes, that is the way it is supposed to be done. Someone took a shortcut in the process and just pinched it off. Not good enough.

My take, is if they do silver solder the end to seal it, why not just silver solder a Schrader valve in place? That way someone can recharge it as opposed to saying it is sealed and it must be replaced. Oh, there is more profit in that method.

Just think about what would occur if vehicles' AC systems did not have Schrader valves. In fact, every vehicle with AC has at least 2 Schrader valves.



Bob

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

Just think about what would occur if vehicles' AC systems did not have Schrader valves. In fact, every vehicle with AC has at least 2 Schrader valves.



Bob

The manufacturers probably look at the RV A/C units like Window A/C units and for that matter residential refrigerators and freezers. Built right they last pretty much until the owner gets tired of the size or style.

Automotive A/C systems have components that are subjected to far different forces and hazards like rocks hitting condensers, extreme heat and vibration on hoses and fittings.

[Aussieguy]

are you sure you have it turned on correctly...
Low cool or High cool .... I usually use Auto

2023 model will be warranty.. by Forest river
Call Forest River to discuss options on how to get this fixed.

You don't have to go to the dealer you bought it from.

when talking to FR ... you need to be precise
where and how are you taking the temperature reading


you need a good thermometer..
measure the air inside the trailer where:
a) the air is getting drawn into the air conditioner (inlet)
b) at the duct or outlet (return colder air)
you are looking for a difference in temp of around 20 degrees.

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/conta...gionSelected=1

------------------------------------------------------------------------

some things that may help

open roof vents plus windows and door ..... for a little while
to purge as much hot air as possible.

Turn thermostat setting to 65 so it does not cycle on/off


Close slides for a little while ... they can be a big source of heat / air leak


Wash your trailer... (pretend to) water will help cool it down a lot.
RVs are confined... with low ceilings ... heat buildup in walls and ceilings can take a long time to get out.

[Bob K4TAX]

Just had our trailer AC serviced this morning. The temperature differential, return and supply were only 10 degrees. Required about 1/2 lb of R-410a plus the service call. Total was $82.00 I had the technician add refrigerant sealant for a 1-ton unit, that was $30.54.

Now we have really cold air.

Bob

[lgharis]

When they install a schrader valve it punches a hole in the small pipe. The piece of pipe will eventually clog the system and it will need to be replaced. If your system is low on coolant it is better to replace the unit with a quieter system.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by lgharis

When they install a schrader valve it punches a hole in the small pipe. The piece of pipe will eventually clog the system and it will need to be replaced. If your system is low on coolant it is better to replace the unit with a quieter system.

I've seen some service techs just cut off crimped part of service access pipe and silver solder on 4" piece of pipe terminated with a schrader valve.

A lot less expensive than replacing a unit that otherwise works fine. Also a quick repair that restores cooling quickly instead of having to wait days, weeks, and perhaps months, for a replacement.

[Bob K4TAX]

Originally Posted by lgharis

When they install a schrader valve it punches a hole in the small pipe. The piece of pipe will eventually clog the system and it will need to be replaced. If your system is low on coolant it is better to replace the unit with a quieter system.

The correct and reliable method is to open the low-pressure line, silver solder in a T, and silver solder the Schrader valve to the T. No issue with a potential clog of the system.

The system is a ducted system and is acceptably very quiet.


Bob