A couple questions about the Suburban water heater

[A2pfunk]

So I replaced the electric element in my Suburban SW6DE today. I don't know that I have ever actually needed or used the electric element, but I realized last year that (I think) it wasn't working. Since I had a week of work from home and I am running out of things to do I decided to replace the element just because I want everything working properly. Just in case. But mostly for something to do.

I started the process, but realized I was going to need a specialized tool to remove the element. I already HAVE a specialized element for removing elements, but it wasn't long enough. I have the kind you stick a screw driver in, but it is short and the screwdriver hits the walls of the unit. So now I have a socket that fits the element.

Here are my questions:
1) Should it take a long time for the electric heater to heat the water? It took so long that I, at first didn't think it was working. Once I let it sit for an hour or two I realized it was. That made me think that perhaps the old one was working as well. Although I am pretty sure I let it run when the tank was dry and I fried it.
2) What is the proper resistence in a working element? I am getting 10-11 ohms in the old one. Is it bad?
3) Could Suburban have picked a WORSE spot to put the electric switch? I mean seriously... How many thousands of these units have they made? And they couldn't come up with something better than that cheap switch which is hidden behind the gas element?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by A2pfunk

So I replaced the electric element in my Suburban SW6DE today. I don't know that I have ever actually needed or used the electric element, but I realized last year that (I think) it wasn't working. Since I had a week of work from home and I am running out of things to do I decided to replace the element just because I want everything working properly. Just in case. But mostly for something to do.

I started the process, but realized I was going to need a specialized tool to remove the element. I already HAVE a specialized element for removing elements, but it wasn't long enough. I have the kind you stick a screw driver in, but it is short and the screwdriver hits the walls of the unit. So now I have a socket that fits the element.

Here are my questions:
1) Should it take a long time for the electric heater to heat the water? It took so long that I, at first didn't think it was working. Once I let it sit for an hour or two I realized it was. That made me think that perhaps the old one was working as well. Although I am pretty sure I let it run when the tank was dry and I fried it.
2) What is the proper resistence in a working element? I am getting 10-11 ohms in the old one. Is it bad?
3) Could Suburban have picked a WORSE spot to put the electric switch? I mean seriously... How many thousands of these units have they made? And they couldn't come up with something better than that cheap switch which is hidden behind the gas element?

Yes, it does take a bit for the electric element to heat up the water by itself, depending on the beginning water temperature.


10 OHMs is what a good element should show.

[A2pfunk]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Yes, it does take a bit for the electric element to heat up the water by itself, depending on the beginning water temperature.


10 OHMs is what a good element should show.

Hmmm... Looks like I have a good spare now. Although it is covered in some crud. When it took a while to heat up today, I wondered if the last time I tried it, I was not patient enough or maybe wasn't plugged in to shorepower. I'm not sure why I have just gotten into the habit of always using propane to heat water even though we typically have elctricity everywhere we go. I think I saw the threads here about how an element will be ruined within seconds if dry fired and assumed I had ruined it. Oh well. At least I have another specialized tool that I won't be able to find the next time I need it.

[wmtire]

From the suburban service manual in our library here on FRF. You definitely have to be plugged into some form of 120 volt AC power for it to work.

[A2pfunk]

Originally Posted by wmtire

From the suburban service manual in our library here on FRF. You definitely have to be plugged into some form of 120 volt AC power for it to work.

Yeah I definitely knew that much. I am trying to figure out what boneheaded mistake I made to assume the electric mode was not working... Perhaps I could've used my multi-meter BEFORE replacing the element? Oh well. Now I at least know how to do it.

[rockfordroo]

Your WH has a 12,000 Btu/hr gas burner. The heating element is 1440 watts = 4913 Btu/hr.

So the heating element can only add 4913/12,000 = 41% of the heat that the gas burner adds. So figure about 2-1/2 times as long to heat. It's probably a little bit shorter, maybe 2 times as long, as the full 12,000 Btu/hr of the burner doesn't heat water; a small amount goes out the flue.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by A2pfunk

I think I saw the threads here about how an element will be ruined within seconds if dry fired and assumed I had ruined it.

From a seminar at last years FR International rally. Turning on the electric element in a dry water heater on "recently manufactured" trailers will not immediately fry the element. You are fine if you turn it off within a few minutes. HOWEVER, you have to let it cool before putting water in the tank. Cold water on a hot element will instantly destroy it.


BTW, to get the crud off, just soak it in common white vinegar. I clean my heater with vinegar every other year. Does a great job of getting rid of scale.

[kandl]

Originally Posted by A2pfunk

I'm not sure why I have just gotten into the habit of always using propane to heat water even though we typically have electricity everywhere we go. I think I saw the threads here about how an element will be ruined within seconds if dry fired and assumed I had ruined it.

Use both. The element compliments the water heater (WH) system by maintaining the water temperature after it's been heated. There will be no demand for gas until you take a shower or otherwise deplete the WH.


I know from life's trials that the elements are pretty reliable and in fact can survive being powered up for some number of minutes without being immersed. However, I don't suggest that you try this at home. Less reliable are the barely adequate, poorly located switches that route power to the element. They can be a PITA to replace.

[KKonyha]

I replaced the thermostat and the element because the electric side was not working. Turned out it was the little on/off switch that was intermittently working. I too have a spare element, thermostat, and socket.

[mykie64]

I usually start ours up first with the propane and then switch over to electric to maintain the temperature. This way it doesn't take as long just to heat what cold water entered the tank.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by A2pfunk

Hmmm...

Oh well. At least I have another specialized tool that I won't be able to find the next time I need it.

Oh God. That is so ME it made me chuckle when I read it.
In many cases I have two or three the same for the same reason.

[A2pfunk]

Originally Posted by kandl

Use both. The element compliments the water heater (WH) system by maintaining the water temperature after it's been heated. There will be no demand for gas until you take a shower or otherwise deplete the WH.


I know from life's trials that the elements are pretty reliable and in fact can survive being powered up for some number of minutes without being immersed. However, I don't suggest that you try this at home. Less reliable are the barely adequate, poorly located switches that route power to the element. They can be a PITA to replace.

Yeah... That tiny little switch. It does not look to be paricularly designed for wet environments, yet its located below where any water will drain when the element or anode are removed. And I swear the intentionally designed it to be hard to reach behind the gas element.

Originally Posted by KKonyha

I replaced the thermostat and the element because the electric side was not working. Turned out it was the little on/off switch that was intermittently working. I too have a spare element, thermostat, and socket.

Better to be prepared I suppose. Although, in a couple of years when I need it, I won't be able to find it.

Originally Posted by Tom48

Oh God. That is so ME it made me chuckle when I read it.
In many cases I have two or three the same for the same reason.

I had the water heater all opened up and figured I should flush it out while I was at it. I KNEW I had the special flushing thingy for the hose. I tore the entire garage apart looking for it. Then I found it just inside the storage door of the camper. Right next to all of my firepit tools, of course.

Originally Posted by mykie64

I usually start ours up first with the propane and then switch over to electric to maintain the temperature. This way it doesn't take as long just to heat what cold water entered the tank.

Yeah, I think the water heater really highlights that I need a checklist. I just know that this is one of the things I will forget. Even though I have set up and broken down a million times in this camper, I know I will forget the tiny switch, hidden behind a gas tube, in an enclosed cabinet. The gas button is easy to remember because it LIGHTS UP and is right next to the door.

[Oldboy]

I had that little rocker switch go bad too. I eliminated it and put a new one by the gas switch. No more trying to turn on and off outside.

[KyDan]

When I drain my WH I put a piece of painters blue tape over the switch.
My Atwood WH has a tag inside the outside door that says
GPH electric 6
GPH LP gas 12
GPH dual 18
If we are taking back to back showers we typically turn on both LP and Electric is usually already on. With just a relaxed Navy shower we never run out of hot water. By that I mean a really good warm up and rinse off but we do shut off the shower head for a bit while lathering up.

By the way, when I first turn on the electric element in my WH I can hear the element singing- like a pan of water heating on the stove. It's subtle but if I stand outside near the heater and it's not too noisy around, I can hear it and know it's working.

[ijon]

When I am in Florida for three months I use the electric part of the water heater. It works fine without the propane. Smoking hot water.

[Semperfi24]

Interesting thread.

I also have a spare element, from a previous intermittent issue that was a poorly installed wire in manufacturing (from the WH to the switches inside). So I swapped the element just to see. But it was only about $13 at Lowes, so no big deal.

As for how long it takes to heat the water on electric, I feel like it takes a lot less time than is being mentioned here. My routine when getting to the site is to get the trailer positioned, level, etc. Then I do the water. Then I do the electric. Followed by cable (if there is cable), and get the sewer set up. Then I go inside and wash my hands and the water is already plenty hot. Just on electric we have hot water in less than 15 minutes.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by ijon

When I am in Florida for three months I use the electric part of the water heater. It works fine without the propane. Smoking hot water.

Same here. We always camp at sites with electricity (may be too old for other kinds) and we never use the propane side of our 10 gallon heater. When I arrive at a site and hook up electricity and water and validate I still have water in the heater, I turn ON the little switch (I remember where it is from the last trip) and I have hot water in a few minutes. When I get ready to leave, I turn OFF the little switch (still in same place) and disconnect my water hose — I’m standing in the same place to flip switch/disconnect hose.

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by KyDan

When I drain my WH I put a piece of painters blue tape over the switch.
My Atwood WH has a tag inside the outside door that says
GPH electric 6
GPH LP gas 12
GPH dual 18
If we are taking back to back showers we typically turn on both LP and Electric is usually already on. With just a relaxed Navy shower we never run out of hot water. By that I mean a really good warm up and rinse off but we do shut off the shower head for a bit while lathering up.

By the way, when I first turn on the electric element in my WH I can hear the element singing- like a pan of water heating on the stove. It's subtle but if I stand outside near the heater and it's not too noisy around, I can hear it and know it's working.

Maybe it’s just me.....

6, 12, 18 what? You didn’t post any units, so I’m not getting this.
Sorry.....I’m sure I would if it weren’t for COVID?

[Semperfi24]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Maybe it’s just me.....

6, 12, 18 what? You didn’t post any units, so I’m not getting this.
Sorry.....I’m sure I would if it weren’t for COVID?

I think the units is the "GPH" listed. As in, when heating the water, you will get:
6 Gallons Per Hour using Electric.
12 Gallons Per Hour using LP
18 Gallons Per Hour if you use both LP and Electric together

But maybe I am interpreting that incorrectly?

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Semperfi24

I think the units is the "GPH" listed. As in, when heating the water, you will get:
6 Gallons Per Hour using Electric.
12 Gallons Per Hour using LP
18 Gallons Per Hour is you use both LP and Electric together

But maybe I am interpreting that incorrectly?

Yep... Gallons Per Hour