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Old 04-27-2020, 03:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomore9-5 View Post
I'm going to assume you've checked and it's not a tripped breaker or fuse . You'll have to next determine test if there's voltage across the terminals of the heater element. If there isn't chances are the switch needs replacing or ( less likely - the thermostat or the contact it makes with the tank ( dirt / rust ?) may be the issue If there is my guess is the element is the culprit ( if you have a continuity tester you can test for this)
Please see post #20 right up there. ^^^^
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Old 04-27-2020, 07:26 PM   #22
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Check Heater Element

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Old 04-27-2020, 07:32 PM   #23
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OP says it's working now. See posts above. ^^^^^^^
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Old 04-27-2020, 07:57 PM   #24
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The electrical switch has been off for two days. I went out hit a reset button that seemed to not push in. Waited 30 minutes or so and it's working again.
The reset button is a bi-metallic switch so there isn't much movement to reset it.
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Old 04-27-2020, 08:10 PM   #25
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Not a Suburban

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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
The reset is for your thermostats. You have 2, a 12VDC one that turns the LP burner on/off and a 120VAC one that turns the electric heating element on/off.

It may be that your T-stat is going bad. If you continue to have trouble, here are the Suburban PN's:

The first 2 are what you should have as standard. The next two are the hotter ones. I could only find one lower one; I THINK 120VAC.

Standard
232306, 130 deg, 120VAC
232282, 130 deg, 12VDC

Higher
232319, 140 deg, 12VDC
232317, 140 deg, 120VAC

Lower
520788, 120 deg, 120VAC??
But in the original post he stated it was a Dometic, not a Suburban.
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Old 04-27-2020, 09:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
But in the original post he stated it was a Dometic, not a Suburban.
I thought that, too, but then went back and couldn't find again, so I posted.

Oh, well. Maybe it will help someone else.
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Old 04-28-2020, 05:52 AM   #27
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I should have posted the model number to help figure out the issue easier. I was looking for what I could possibly check. Sorry!
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Old 04-28-2020, 05:56 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
But in the original post he stated it was a Dometic, not a Suburban.
Thanks for posting the thermostat PN's. If it does it again working after being off for 2 days the thermostat is more than like the issue.
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Old 04-28-2020, 06:57 AM   #29
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Hey guy's, My hot water heater quit working on electric. It works great using LP but wondering what to check to see what the issue is with it not working on electric. Thanks in advance for any help with this. It's a Dometic unit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokey View Post
Thanks, Yes the switch is in the lower left corner. If it's the element would it still work on propane? It works great using LP. I just watched a video where one didn't work on LP and it was the circuit board.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokey View Post
It's been working great for 2 years now. It is an '06 model. I'm full time so use it a good bit. The switch is only at the hot water heater. The one for LP is inside.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokey View Post
Thanks, I'm plugged in to a 50 Amp pedestal and everything electrical works except the water heater. The heater doesn't have a 110 outlet to plug into. I just saw two reset buttons beside each other inside of the water heater. The one on the left doesn't seems to reset or push in at all. The one beside it the rubber cover has worn off and I pushed it also. I turned the switch back on at the heater and waiting to see if it'll work. If not it needs to be checked using a volt meter from the breaker and then to the wiring at the heater. I can use it on propane now, I'll just turn on as needed until I can find out the electrical issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
But in the original post he stated it was a Dometic, not a Suburban.

Yes, the OP did post the wrong brand in their first post, which would/did confuse the situation. They did incorrectly identify it and say it was a Dometic, but then describes a Suburban in all the follow up posts.......so all the information/advice pertaining to a Suburban water heater is definitely applicable here.


I went ahead and added an edit note to the first post to correct this, should anyone in the future find this thread searching for a similar problem.


The member most likely has a Suburban SW6DE water heater, but can use this info below to correctly identify.


Suburban Water Heater (SW | V | SAW Models) The model and serial number information can be located by opening the water heater access door on the outside of your RV. The silver colored data plate with black printing is located on the right side of the metal control housing as you face it from the outside. The model number will be located on the top line of the data plate and will begin with "SW", "SAW" or "V". The nine digit serial number will be on the bottom line.
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:51 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
But in the original post he stated it was a Dometic, not a Suburban.
Which, in that case would make it a Atwood water heater.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:48 AM   #31
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Which, in that case would make it a Atwood water heater.
It's a Suburban 6W6 DE. I put a Dometic in by mistake.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:51 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
Yes, the OP did post the wrong brand in their first post, which would/did confuse the situation. They did incorrectly identify it and say it was a Dometic, but then describes a Suburban in all the follow up posts.......so all the information/advice pertaining to a Suburban water heater is definitely applicable here.


I went ahead and added an edit note to the first post to correct this, should anyone in the future find this thread searching for a similar problem.


The member most likely has a Suburban water heater, but can use this info below to correctly identify.


Suburban Water Heater (SW | V | SAW Models) The model and serial number information can be located by opening the water heater access door on the outside of your RV. The silver colored data plate with black printing is located on the right side of the metal control housing as you face it from the outside. The model number will be located on the top line of the data plate and will begin with "SW", "SAW" or "V". The nine digit serial number will be on the bottom line.
Thanks and yes I did say that is was a Dometic by mistake. It is a Suburban water heater 6W6 DE . From a reply below it possibly is or can be the thermostat at the heater. I found several for around $12. I'm going to replace it so it will eliminate that issue.
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Old 04-28-2020, 12:10 PM   #33
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Quote:
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Thanks and yes I did say that is was a Dometic by mistake. It is a Suburban water heater 6W6 EE . From a reply below it possibly is or can be the thermostat at the heater. I found several for around $12. I'm going to replace it so it will eliminate that issue.
I think you may have a typo. It may be a SW6DE
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Old 04-28-2020, 12:56 PM   #34
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I think you may have a typo. It may be a SW6DE
Thanks and it is the 6W6DE as I posted below. I did have EE and edited it.
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Old 05-04-2020, 10:28 PM   #35
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Seems it was just 2 hours and 16 minutes to fix itself again! Not a bad time!
Playing around seems to work often, and since it is a 120v circuit an electrician should handle this kind of problem if it persists!
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Old 05-05-2020, 06:25 AM   #36
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Seems it was just 2 hours and 16 minutes to fix itself again! Not a bad time!
Playing around seems to work often, and since it is a 120v circuit an electrician should handle this kind of problem if it persists!
It reset it's self I guess. Like rebooting a PC!
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Old 05-05-2020, 07:58 AM   #37
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Water Heater in Electric Mode

Quote:
Originally Posted by pokey View Post
Hey guy's, My hot water heater quit working on electric. It works great using LP but wondering what to check to see what the issue is with it not working on electric. Thanks in advance for any help with this. It's a Dometic unit.


EDIT by site team: The member has a Suburban water heater, not a Dometic.
With a voltmeter check to see if voltage is present on the heater element. If no voltage it could be the thermostat that should be mounted on the water heater somewhere to keep it from overheating and overflowing. I had this problem on my water heater. Part was about $15 or so and easy to replace.
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Old 05-05-2020, 08:23 AM   #38
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Quote:
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Thanks and it is the 6W6DE as I posted below. I did have EE and edited it.
6W6DE or SW6DE?
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Old 05-05-2020, 08:55 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czachry View Post
With a voltmeter check to see if voltage is present on the heater element. If no voltage it could be the thermostat that should be mounted on the water heater somewhere to keep it from overheating and overflowing. I had this problem on my water heater. Part was about $15 or so and easy to replace.
It's been working great since the issue. I am planning on replacing the thermostat because it is only around $15 and very easy to change out.
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Old 05-05-2020, 09:15 AM   #40
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I assume you know that the electric element is pretty slow.

The gas is likely 3x as fast. Maybe more.

When you know there will be a line at the shower, you can then turn on the convenient switch in the rv and use both.

When we do that our 12 gallon unit is virtually continuous.
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