Ac/fan not working efficiently

[Brittany]

We have a 2018 forest river crusader and we noticed recently that both air units are not keeping up. They are blowing air out and it feels cold but it’s just not keeping up. We have cleaned the coils and that seemed to help a little but still not as efficient. What else should we be checking? We don’t have interior access to the units in our camper.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Brittany

We have a 2018 forest river crusader and we noticed recently that both air units are not keeping up. They are blowing air out and it feels cold but it’s just not keeping up. We have cleaned the coils and that seemed to help a little but still not as efficient. What else should we be checking? We don’t have interior access to the units in our camper.

Really? No interior access? At the very least, you should be able to open the access, remove the open-cell foam filter, and wash it in the sink. A really clogged filter will reduce efficiency.

As your next step, once the filter is removed, you should examine the ducting. The air conditioner comes through the ceiling in a 14" x 14" opening. This should be divided into a 7" x 14" cold air duct and a 7" x 14" return air duct. In some RVs the separator between these two parts is just a poorly placed piece of cardboard, allowing the air to short-cycle between the two parts and not be forced through the ducts into the cabin. Inspect this and see if it looks good to you.

At each of the ceiling outlets, take off the grille (pull really hard), and make sure the duct hasn't come loose from the outlet.

Let us know what you find.

[NJKris]

What Larry said!

[Brittany]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Really? No interior access? At the very least, you should be able to open the access, remove the open-cell foam filter, and wash it in the sink. A really clogged filter will reduce efficiency.

As your next step, once the filter is removed, you should examine the ducting. The air conditioner comes through the ceiling in a 14" x 14" opening. This should be divided into a 7" x 14" cold air duct and a 7" x 14" return air duct. In some RVs the separator between these two parts is just a poorly placed piece of cardboard, allowing the air to short-cycle between the two parts and not be forced through the ducts into the cabin. Inspect this and see if it looks good to you.

At each of the ceiling outlets, take off the grille (pull really hard), and make sure the duct hasn't come loose from the outlet.

Let us know what you find.

I’m sorry but I’m not sure where the access is? We have two return vents on the ceiling and that’s it. No other access to the units besides on the roof.

[NJKris]

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...bds-15660.html


Maybe similar to this? I just did a quick Google search and this was one of first hits.


Behind the return vent grates. Guessing they were never changed if they were this out of sight/mind.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Brittany

I’m sorry but I’m not sure where the access is? We have two return vents on the ceiling and that’s it. No other access to the units besides on the roof.

Most RV air conditioners are closed systems. They draw air from the interior of the RV, cool it, and circulate it back into the interior. Attached are a couple of pictures of typical installations.

Do you have something on the ceiling that looks like any of these? If not, look through the information that came with your trailer and report the brand and model of your air conditioner.

[Brittany]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Most RV air conditioners are closed systems. They draw air from the interior of the RV, cool it, and circulate it back into the interior. Attached are a couple of pictures of typical installations.

Do you have something on the ceiling that looks like any of these? If not, look through the information that came with your trailer and report the brand and model of your air conditioner.

No, we don’t have anything like that on our ceiling. This is all we have. I also included a picture of the model. We have two units and they both have cold air coming out but it doesn’t feel like it’s coming out as strong as before. If it’s been a long day of them being on it will start shooting out ice.

[bikendan]

Moved thread from the Cherokee sub-forum to the Tech and Repair section's Appliances and Electronics sub-forum.

[Bob K4TAX]

If they shoot out ice, the evaporator is too cold thus freezing the condensation known as a freeze-up. This typically says the units are low on refrigerant (often called Freon in error). A duct thermometer, a $10 item, should show a 20-degree difference between intake air temperature (warm air) and exhaust temperature (cold air). Less than 20 degrees then the units need attention.

Any qualified and licensed HVAC technician can check and recharge the units. I also suggest adding some refrigerant sealant at the time they are recharged. Usually, it is a prolonged minor leak over the years.

If anyone says they are sealed and can not be recharged, this is only partially correct, or mostly incorrect. Sealed means there are no access valves to recharge the system. That is correct. The factory saves money by not installing Schader valves. Again any HVAC qualified tech can install the required valves for a few dollars and recharge the system. I paid $150 to have ours done including the service call at my shop where I keep our TT. (That is much better than a $1500 price quoted by an RV dealer.)

Bob

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

If they shoot out ice, the evaporator is too cold thus freezing the condensation known as a freeze-up. This typically says the units are low on refrigerant (often called Freon in error). A duct thermometer, a $10 item, should show a 20-degree difference between intake air temperature (warm air) and exhaust temperature (cold air). Less than 20 degrees then the units need attention.

Any qualified and licensed HVAC technician can check and recharge the units. I also suggest adding some refrigerant sealant at the time they are recharged. Usually, it is a prolonged minor leak over the years.

If anyone says they are sealed and can not be recharged, this is only partially correct, or mostly incorrect. Sealed means there are no access valves to recharge the system. That is correct. The factory saves money by not installing Schader valves. Again any HVAC qualified tech can install the required valves for a few dollars and recharge the system. I paid $150 to have ours done including the service call at my shop where I keep our TT. (That is much better than a $1500 price quoted by an RV dealer.)

Bob

Freeze ups also are a symptom of poor air flow, usually due to neglected filters.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Freeze ups also are a symptom of poor air flow, usually due to neglected filters.

Or due to running the fan on Low. In an RV, always run the fan on High because the internal humidity is high causing lots of water to condense on the "evaporator" coils.

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Or due to running the fan on Low. In an RV, always run the fan on High because the internal humidity is high causing lots of water to condense on the "evaporator" coils.

Had that happen once at the Goshen rally, it was unbearably hot and humid. After running just the fan for awhile, it was like a damn busted loose on the roof and water came gushing out (throught the gutters on roof, thankfully not into camper). On my central blast unit, if you don't run on low, you can't hear yourself think.