Air Conditioner / Thermostat

[jtintx]

Just got back from my first trip out and the main concern I have is the AC/thermostat. I have a couple of questions.

1. The unit is very, very loud. Is this normal? (BTW, the noise level is the same regardless of if the fan is on auto or low.

2. The unit doesn't seem to be controlled well by the thermostat. At first the unit ran continuously even though I had the thermostat set at 90°. After tinkering with it it now seems to run the AC for about 30 minutes and then it kicks off for about 30 minutes...doesn't seemed to be based on the temperature. It freezes me after awhile and then I roast until it kicks back on. Is there a way to adjust this to kick on and off more frequently? Is this a faulty thermostat? Would I get better performance if I upgraded the thermostat? (I have an Airxcel 8330)

Thank for any help you can offer.

[Timex]

Most folks on here have "upgraded" to a digital thermostat. The cheap analog thermostat has too much of a variance in temperature; too cold, too hot. I will be changing mine after my next trip next month!

[jtintx]

I took the faceplate off of the thermostat and see that the wires are soldered in place. I've never done any electrical work so don't know how I would go about disconnecting the wires. Do you just cut them? Don't know how much extra wire is in the wall.

[Timex]

I'd give them a little pull to see and make sure when you do work on the wires, that they don't slide back through the hole down inside the wall. If you have enough slack maybe tie all the wires in a soft knot.

[HarrynSally]

Take pictures of wire set up always take pictures!

[dmf564]

Originally Posted by jtintx

I took the faceplate off of the thermostat and see that the wires are soldered in place. I've never done any electrical work so don't know how I would go about disconnecting the wires. Do you just cut them? Don't know how much extra wire is in the wall.

First things first.
Unplug your TT.
Disconnect the battery. Its a low voltage circuit but still a charged circuit.
Take the thermostat cover off.
As mentioned before take a pic of the wiring connections.
Next
Have 2 bigger sized (thick) zip ties handy.
Take the thermostat loose from the wall, probably 2 small screws.
Pull the thermostat; with wires still attached, away from the wall to determine how much slack in the wire is available. Don't pull to hard as to pull it loose from other connection but your gonna need some slack.
Once you have the wire pulled from the wall, take the zip ties and put them at the base of the wire at the hole. With one tail of the tie going to either side of the hole. Making real sure the zip ties are TIGHT on the wire. This will allow the you to let the thermostat to hang free without worry of them falling into the wall once they have been cut loose of the thermostat.
Note. You don't have to use zip ties, you can use tape or a bread bag tie. But with those items its hard to get them tight around a wire and you don't want the wires to get loose.
Next
Get your wire cutters out a cut the old thermostat loose. Be sure and cut as close to the solder as possible without cutting the solder ball. This will insure the wires won't fray much. Then get the wire strippers out and strip a 1/4 inch of insulation off the wire.
Finally, get the new thermostat out. Read the connection instructions. Compare the instructions to the pic that you took of the original wiring connections. There will be connection screws, so no soldering will be needed. Make your connections. Matching your pic.
Next.
Reconnect your battery and plug in your TT. Now you can test your new thermostat. Make sure you test the A/C AND HEAT controls.
Hope that helps,
Dennis

[jtintx]

Originally Posted by dmf564

First things first.
Unplug your TT.
Disconnect the battery. Its a low voltage circuit but still a charged circuit.

Can't I just switch off the main circuit at the panel?

Great info...thanks!

[dmf564]

Originally Posted by jtintx

Can't I just switch off the main circuit at the panel?

Great info...thanks!

If you have a battery shut off switch, turn it off. If you don't, disconnect it. The thermostat should run off of the 12V beings that your heat will work off of the 12V. But Should is the operative word. I would rather not take the chance. Better to shut it all off, 120 & 12V just to cover all the bases.
Better to be safe than sorry with a blown fuse or mother board somewhere.....

[Evereddie]

I have the old unit out and hanging from the wires. It looks dirt simple but I am an electronics engineer in matters like this so it should be. Will take photos and post end of the day.

[Evereddie]

I know that this new digital thermostat will help for better temp regulation but in our experiments this summer we found out that how you adjust your vents and where you position the airflow is as important and maybe more important than the thermostat.

You need top provide a bit of airflow towards your thermostat. In our 2306 the thermostat is tucked away in a corner and if you are not careful you can totally prevent it from getting any of the cool air. This will make it run longer and get colder before it shuts off. Basically without enough airflow to the thermostat it makes for longer run cycles. We found a good balance.

I'd really like to move the thermostat in our trailer but will see how this new digital works.

[Ford Idaho]

A wireless thermostat, put it where you want it.

Venstar Wireless Thermostat System - No Need to Rewire - Smarthome

I used one when I installed the pellet stove.

[BillyBass]

My buddy has a coachman 2004 trailer he having trouble with his air and furnance.If he turn it down all the way the air kicks on but if he turn it a little it wont come on and the same for the furnance.Can someone help me out here thanks

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by BillyBass

My buddy has a coachman 2004 trailer he having trouble with his air and furnance.If he turn it down all the way the air kicks on but if he turn it a little it wont come on and the same for the furnance.Can someone help me out here thanks

Fan set to "low", "high", "auto"?

[BillyBass]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Fan set to "low", "high", "auto"?

Im not shore on that

[Evereddie]

Did his trouble just suddenly start to happen? Digital or analogue type of thermostat? Maybe a power surge messed it up. Or it is just old. 10 years in a trailer environment might be the limit.

[dmf564]

Originally Posted by BillyBass

My buddy has a coachman 2004 trailer he having trouble with his air and furnance.If he turn it down all the way the air kicks on but if he turn it a little it wont come on and the same for the furnance.Can someone help me out here thanks

When you say " turns it down all the way" are talking about the thermostat? Fan speed switch?

[Evereddie]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

A wireless thermostat, put it where you want it.

Venstar Wireless Thermostat System - No Need to Rewire - Smarthome

I used one when I installed the pellet stove.

Looks nice for a 'home' install but doesn't look like it will work in an RV environment. (12 volt control circuits) But I don't doubt there is a wireless made for RV-ers

[BillyBass]

its analogue . it only has for the fan high and low he said when he kick it down to 78 it will keep kicking on and off

[BillyBass]

Originally Posted by dmf564

When you say " turns it down all the way" are talking about the thermostat? Fan speed switch?

yes not the fan

[BarryD0706]

Originally Posted by Evereddie

Looks nice for a 'home' install but doesn't look like it will work in an RV environment. (12 volt control circuits) But I don't doubt there is a wireless made for RV-ers

I read the manual and don't see any reason that it wouldn't work in an RV. It's run by batteries and not any other power source.

Edit: This is wrong. The receiver requires 24vac which isn't available in a normal RV.