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Old 04-08-2021, 09:14 AM   #1
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Anode rod leaking

Put the anode rod back in after dewinterization. Plumbers tape and not cross threaded as it turned several times by hand and not over tighter, just snugged tight. But something went south, as it is leaking, is there a way to fix this without replacing the whole thing. I ordered a new anode rod.Click image for larger version

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Old 04-08-2021, 09:16 AM   #2
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Try adding a couple of more wraps of teflon tape and try again.
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:21 AM   #3
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I think I would pull the rod and take a thread chaser (tap) and clean the threads on the tank if you don't have a tap a wire brush will work. then reinstall with teflon tape or like I use pipe dope and tighten.
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:44 AM   #4
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I think I would pull the rod and take a thread chaser (tap) and clean the threads on the tank if you don't have a tap a wire brush will work. then reinstall with teflon tape or like I use pipe dope and tighten.

I was thinking pipe dope but concerned with toxicity being a drinking supply or am I worrying for nothing?
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:53 AM   #5
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The pipe dope won't hurt the water.
Mine did the same thing, and as SeaDog mentioned, I chased the threads, big honker of a tap for the female side!
Or use a small steel wire brush (toothbrush size) or better yet a dremel with a small wire wheel will do the trick. Extra teflon tape and don't overtighten!

Good luck.
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:53 AM   #6
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Rector Seal #5 is listed safe for potable water.
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...7928409&ipos=8
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Rector Seal #5 is listed safe for potable water.
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...7928409&ipos=8
X2 - On the recommendation of nomad297, I used this on my quarter turn low point and fresh water drain valves and on my anode rod (for the first time - had always used Teflon tape).


MHO is that the anode rod pictured by the OP needs another grunt of tight.
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:26 AM   #8
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Clean the threads and reapply Teflon Tape. (recommended by the water heater manufacturer)

You said you didn't overtighten but did you tighten enough?

Pipe threads have tapered mating surfaces and you do have to use enough force to keep it from leaking.
You simply may not have tightened enough.
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:37 AM   #9
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Clean the threads and reapply Teflon Tape. (recommended by the water heater manufacturer)

You said you didn't overtighten but did you tighten enough?

Pipe threads have tapered mating surfaces and you do have to use enough force to keep it from leaking.
You simply may not have tightened enough.

This is aluminum and aluminum and I do not get along My first motor cycle at the age 8 had an aluminum head. I had to change out the spark plug and stripped it because I tightened it to much. Flew down to Florida in the 80's, hated flying so much I bought a junker car and drove back. Loved the car so I rebuilt the motor, even using a torque wrench I tightened the head bolts incorrectly on the aluminum head and warped the head.



I have nightmares when I have put in the anode rod about over tightening it and stripping put the threads on the hot water heater



Have worked with heli coils also and hate them just as much. So what would I do if I over tightened the anode rod????
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:58 AM   #10
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The suburban water heaters anode rod/drain port threads aren't aluminum......unless they changed very recently.

That's why these ports threads rust over with the anode rod removed and you sometimes have to clean them
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Old 04-08-2021, 11:01 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by tyler811 View Post
This is aluminum and aluminum and I do not get along My first motor cycle at the age 8 had an aluminum head. I had to change out the spark plug and stripped it because I tightened it to much. Flew down to Florida in the 80's, hated flying so much I bought a junker car and drove back. Loved the car so I rebuilt the motor, even using a torque wrench I tightened the head bolts incorrectly on the aluminum head and warped the head.



I have nightmares when I have put in the anode rod about over tightening it and stripping put the threads on the hot water heater



Have worked with heli coils also and hate them just as much. So what would I do if I over tightened the anode rod????
Not sure what you are referring to?

The anode port is steel as is the threaded part of the anode rod.

Spark plug threads are not tapered and a completely different ballgame.

You'd have to be a gorilla to strip the tapered pipe threads on the anode/port.
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Old 04-08-2021, 11:07 AM   #12
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And in addition to my previous post and 5pickers above....the OE Suburban anode rods do not have aluminum threadsClick image for larger version

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Old 04-08-2021, 11:30 AM   #13
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Not sure what you are referring to?

The anode port is steel as is the threaded part of the anode rod.

Spark plug threads are not tapered and a completely different ballgame.

You'd have to be a gorilla to strip the tapered pipe threads on the anode/port.



Yes I have given it a 2nd look and was incorrect.


_ i will go out after work and try to tighten it more
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Old 04-08-2021, 11:38 AM   #14
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Tap for Suburban W/H

Tap size is 3/4-14 NPT when you buy one! Youroo!!
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Old 04-12-2021, 11:53 AM   #15
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Be careful using pipe dope. Electrical continuity must be maintained between the anode rod and the tank. Might want to measure the resistance between the anode rod plug and tank with a meter and make sure the resistance is low.
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Old 04-12-2021, 12:01 PM   #16
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I had same issue. Finally used a tap to clean the threads. After that, all was well.

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America...657653812&th=1
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Old 04-12-2021, 02:06 PM   #17
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All well as I took it triple up the tape and tightened it down. I do not recall having to put that much tape on it and tightening it up that much
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Old 04-22-2021, 05:58 PM   #18
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4 wraps of tape standard
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