|
|
08-05-2020, 02:07 PM
|
#21
|
Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
|
My anode rod is 7 yrs old and though it has some pits it probably has that many years left. The deterioration of the rod depends a lot on the natural mineral content of the water.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
|
|
|
08-05-2020, 02:39 PM
|
#22
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
|
The anode rod will deteriorate based on the mineral content of the water in it. If not much mineral content....not much deterioration.
|
|
|
08-05-2020, 04:13 PM
|
#23
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Family room couch
Posts: 4,568
|
Please set a calendar reminder to update this thread a year from now.
Ray
__________________
2020 Georgetown GT5 34H5
2020 Equinox Premier AWD 2.0L/9-speed
|
|
|
08-05-2020, 04:49 PM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,362
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcavaiani
Was leaking with only 1 wrap of teflon. Drained it again and did 3 wraps in the middle of the threads. Leak pretty much done now, and resistance still at zero. I have my doubts that all is gonna work right - just hoping the anode rod begins to show some deterioration and benefit going forward ?
|
I just replaced the anode rod in my house's water heater. The anode rod supplier gave a suggestion on how to deal with sulfur smell in the water. To kill residual bacteria in the tank they suggest pouring a pint or two of Hydrogen Peroxide into the tank and fill. Let sit for a while and then flush well.
On an RV water tank, if the anode has been removed and replaced, before filling I'd pump the Hydrogen Peroxide in through the antifreeze port. Since the tank is empty and the rest of the system will have water in it the Peroxide solution will fill the tank.
I'm guessing that Clorox would do the same but the Peroxide won't leave that "Holiday Inn Swimming Pool" taste/smell in the water system.
As for signs of activity, as other's said, it depends on how active the water is and how much electrolysis is present.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
|
|
|
08-05-2020, 04:59 PM
|
#25
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,361
|
I believe there are some water heaters that don't need anode rods. Atwood comes to mind as not needing one but Suburban does. If memory serves me right it's because some water heaters have aluminized tank interiors.
|
|
|
08-05-2020, 05:23 PM
|
#26
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunseeker16
I believe there are some water heaters that don't need anode rods. Atwood comes to mind as not needing one but Suburban does. If memory serves me right it's because some water heaters have aluminized tank interiors.
|
Atwood does have an aluminum tank and doesn't need one.
|
|
|
08-10-2020, 07:02 PM
|
#27
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 191
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by W5CI
if your hot water smells it is because you have let your rv sit idle for a while. just drain and or flush the water heater to rid the smelly water. the anode rod deteriorates based on the water that it comes into contact with, some is worse than others
|
This.
If mine is going to be sitting a couple of weeks I drain the water heater, engage the bypass, and blow the water lines clear with compressed air.
It only takes about 20 minutes or so and is time well spent as far as I’m concerned.
Most of the campgrounds we frequent have well water which isn’t treated like the water at home.
Bob
|
|
|
08-10-2020, 10:09 PM
|
#28
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 107
|
Drain your water heat more often and purchase one of those sprayers that can clean the inside of the tank. Also leave your anode out to let the tank air out. I do this after every camping trip. I use the blue monster plumbers tape for the threads it's a little more expensive but works so much better.
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 02:01 AM
|
#29
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 374
|
Doesn't the Anode only come into play when heating with electricity?
If so, using mostly propane will have even less affect to the Anode...?
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 07:47 AM
|
#30
|
Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by garywilson
Doesn't the Anode only come into play when heating with electricity?
If so, using mostly propane will have even less affect to the Anode...?
|
No. My s&b home's natural gas fired water heater with a pilot light has an anode rod. There isn't any electricity involved with the water heaters operation.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 08:00 AM
|
#31
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 4,563
|
Everyone checked their home water heater anode? I did and it wasn't there, just a thin steel rod about 4' long and the diameter of a wire coat hanger. The guys at the plumbing supply shop were astounded! Probably original to the water heater when the house was built 15 years ago and the former owner never bothered to check it. Part of my annual inspection and maintenance now.
-- Chuck
__________________
2006 Roo 23SS behind a 2017 Ford Expedition
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 08:55 AM
|
#33
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 1,140
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcavaiani
Never thought of checking it ;-(
|
It's not possible to wrap enough Teflon tape around a clean tapered pipe fitting to electrically insulate it from the properly prepped mating part. The crest of the male thread cuts through the tape and contacts at someplace near the root of the female thread and it only takes a single point of contact to establish continuity. The Teflon tape is meant to fill in gaps between those threads.
__________________
2016 F350 CC Dually Powerstroke 4x4
2014 Cedar Creek 34RLSA w/Level Up
2007 HD Ultra Classic 103
USS Pyro AE-24 WestPac MM2 '71-'75
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 09:54 AM
|
#34
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,362
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper
No. My s&b home's natural gas fired water heater with a pilot light has an anode rod. There isn't any electricity involved with the water heaters operation.
|
There's more "electricity" involved than many realize.
Two different metals immersed in an electrolyte generate electricity. Electrolysis then starts to destroy one of those metals or the other.
Water, unless pure is an electrolyte.
The Anode is the piece of metal that is supposed to be destroyed, not tank or possibly even attached plumbing.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 12:18 PM
|
#35
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: WI
Posts: 324
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode
|
I have watched these videos before. The bottom line for me is that the Suburban seems to be defective! There is simply no benefit nor deterioration of either the magnesium nor the aluminum anode rode during the frequent time we spend/spent here in the past 4 years, and the sulfur smell soon returns no matter what else is done!
__________________
Sierra Destination Camper - 2017 401 FLX
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 12:27 PM
|
#36
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcavaiani
I have watched these videos before. The bottom line for me is that the Suburban seems to be defective! There is simply no benefit nor deterioration of either the magnesium nor the aluminum anode rode during the frequent time we spend/spent here in the past 4 years, and the sulfur smell soon returns no matter what else is done!
|
The anode rod's only purpose is to prevent galvanic corrosion. It does not prevent the sulfur smell.
If the anode rod is not wearing, that means the water in the heater does not have a high concentration of mineral ions in it.
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 12:37 PM
|
#37
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,362
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by babock
The anode rod's only purpose is to prevent galvanic corrosion. It does not prevent the sulfur smell.
If the anode rod is not wearing, that means the water in the heater does not have a high concentration of mineral ions in it.
|
It can help. Many recommend aluminum or aluminum/zinc anodes as the byproducts of electrolysis tend to kill the sulfur producing bacteria.
Of course if there is a lot of bacteria present, an anode alone can't help and then one needs to resort to Chlorine or Peroxide to do the job.
Yes, the primary purpose is preventing electrolysis damage.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 12:42 PM
|
#38
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
It can help. Many recommend aluminum or aluminum/zinc anodes as the byproducts of electrolysis tend to kill the sulfur producing bacteria.
|
Of course if there are not enough ions in the water in the first place, the anode rod won't be putting out any of those byproducts.
The most noble metal for anode rods would be magnesium. Not sure if the byproducts of that rod do much for this sulfur smell.
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 01:01 PM
|
#39
|
Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,334
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcavaiani
I have watched these videos before. The bottom line for me is that the Suburban seems to be defective! There is simply no benefit nor deterioration of either the magnesium nor the aluminum anode rode during the frequent time we spend/spent here in the past 4 years, and the sulfur smell soon returns no matter what else is done!
|
I've noticed over the years that the more you use your hot water, the less chance the smell shows up. If you just leave the water sitting in your tank or even in the lines for weeks, the smell always seems to come back.
|
|
|
08-11-2020, 01:01 PM
|
#40
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: WI
Posts: 324
|
I think 2 things are obvious: I have received many many good ideas and helpful tips, but it looks like this suburban WH is not working correctly. The cold water is fine, has no smell, and we use it for coffee all the time. The hot water stinks badly and we cannot figure out why. Even after cleaning it out with accepted bleach and the timely procedures, the smell returns in a few days.
__________________
Sierra Destination Camper - 2017 401 FLX
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|