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Old 02-25-2019, 12:17 AM   #1
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Antenna booster

Is the Factory antenna booster of any value?

Does anyone know it the jack that says ANT2 (on the circuit board inside the wall) is boosted when the red boost button is pressed on the front and the led light comes on? I am assuming the jack that comes out the front of the faceplate is boosted when the red boost button is pressed and the led light comes on.
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:36 AM   #2
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It would help if you posted year, make and model of RV you have, since you don't have it listed in your profile.
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:44 AM   #3
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Quote:
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Is the Factory antenna booster of any value?

Does anyone know it the jack that says ANT2 (on the circuit board inside the wall) is boosted when the red boost button is pressed on the front and the led light comes on? I am assuming the jack that comes out the front of the faceplate is boosted when the red boost button is pressed and the led light comes on.

Yes, both TV1 and TV2 connections are boosted if it's the standard Winegard power injector. If you are not getting a good signal to TV2 then you probably have a loose connection or bad cable.
See page 6 of the attached document.
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File Type: pdf 2452013.pdf (3.15 MB, 70 views)
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Yes, both TV1 and TV2 connections are boosted if it's the standard Winegard power injector. If you are not getting a good signal to TV2 then you probably have a loose connection or bad cable.
See page 6 of the attached document.
Thank you for the PDF file. It is a Winegard. Still have hope someone can tell me how to test the Coaxial cable with my fluke. How to tell if my antenna is working at all. I get no channels at all.
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:38 AM   #5
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More information needed!
Do you get reception out of the TV antenna jack at the booster???

I donno how test an antenna with an ohmmeter..... If you're trying to track down a loss of signal 1st thing is a visual inspection of all connectors you can find.
It's not uncommon to find missing center leads or improperly attached F connectors anywhere in the rig.
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:04 AM   #6
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Disconnect both ends of the coax cable that goes from the booster plate to the antenna and ohms check between the center conductor and the connector at either end. You should read an open. If open (assuming cable assembly is properly terminated) the coax cable assembly is good.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:52 AM   #7
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Disconnect both ends of the coax cable that goes from the booster plate to the antenna and ohms check between the center conductor and the connector at either end. You should read an open. If open (assuming cable assembly is properly terminated) the coax cable assembly is good.
I had a trailer where the f connections were bad. There was no short in the system but there was no continuity either.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:56 AM   #8
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I had a trailer where the f connections were bad. There was no short in the system but there was no continuity either.
That's why I said "(assuming cable assembly is properly terminated)".
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:31 PM   #9
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That's why I said "(assuming cable assembly is properly terminated)".

But you can't assume that.
There are possibly hidden splitters in the rig. I don't see any good way to test the system with an ohm meter.
An open reading doesn't necessarily mean the system is good and resistance between center and ground doesn't necessarily mean it's bad.


We need more information from Quail.
Are you getting reception at one outlet but nothing at another or do you mean you have no reception at all, anywhere?
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:04 PM   #10
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But you can't assume that.
There are possibly hidden splitters in the rig. I don't see any good way to test the system with an ohm meter.
An open reading doesn't necessarily mean the system is good and resistance between center and ground doesn't necessarily mean it's bad.


We need more information from Quail.
Are you getting reception at one outlet but nothing at another or do you mean you have no reception at all, anywhere?
You're right can't assume everything but one assumption I think that can be made is that the over the air antenna coax is routed from the antenna to the booster power panel directly (no hidden splitters etc.) and that's what I'm referencing. The OP asked how to check that cable and that's what I have presented.
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Old 02-26-2019, 08:59 AM   #11
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The wall plate is NOT a booster. It is a powered antenna switch.

Its job is to manage the distribution of two TV source coaxes to the TVs in the rig. It concurrently routes 12 volt DC power over the roof antenna downlead to the signal amplifier located in the roof antenna (either a Jacks or Winegard).

When the wall plate light is ON, the TV side of the switch is connected to the TV1 and TV2 F2 connectors on the wall plate. From there, the signal goes through at least one splitter to the other TV locations in the RIG.

When the wall plate's light is OFF, the system's input is switched from the roof downlead to the CABLE direct run to the camper's outside wall input. The roof system then receives no power from the wall plate.

If your wall plate has a 12volt DC socket, it will also have a TV1 located on the faceplate. It is hard wired to the one TV2 that is located on the back.
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File Type: pdf Sensar Antenna and Amp Plate.pdf (1.06 MB, 16 views)
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:03 PM   #12
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The rest of the story

When I bought the camper, the salesman showed me the tv worked and it got about 5 channels. Hanover PA. I hooked the camper up last june and failed to secure the tv. It fell on the floor and almost tore the RCA jacks out of the back of the tv. I have been in several campgrounds (do not know if anyone could pick up any channels) and the new tv (not the one that fell, I put that one in the kids room) has yet to pick up anything. I have removed the booster unit from the wall and everything looks fine, nothing was bent from the accident. I get nothing from the main jack that is on the faceplate or the jack that is on the circuit board labeled TV2 behind the faceplate in the wall. Camper is covered and the roof is not accessible right now. I am looking for experienced advice so when I get on the roof I will have a couple of ideas on how to trouble shoot this. I want to do more than unhook the cable and look at it and say "Well that looks good". My son has an antenna that he sticks on his wall at his house to get broadcast channels. I tried that and it did not work. Yes I live in the boondocks. I have the Winegard model that has an additional jack on the faceplate that does not go through the circuit board. It looks like this small trailer was wired for just one TV.
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:07 AM   #13
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I also live in the boondocks. I get about 5 stations at home on my coach in the Berkshires. When traveling, such as Cape Cod, I can get up to 40 stations in one part of the campground and 25 or so in another part. Location is big for reception.
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:34 AM   #14
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My parents have a crank up antenna and they get reception in my driveway. I guess I will just buy a new antenna power supply thinking it may have been damaged.
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:52 AM   #15
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As an FYI I made up a cable to run the set2 connector on the Winegard wall plate amp to my FM radio in the trailer and that really helps pull in distant radio stations.
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:25 AM   #16
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That's a very good idea and easy to do. I wondered where the antenna lead from my radio actually goes.
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Old 02-27-2019, 12:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
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When I bought the camper, the salesman showed me the tv worked and it got about 5 channels. Hanover PA. I hooked the camper up last june and failed to secure the tv. It fell on the floor and almost tore the RCA jacks out of the back of the tv. I have been in several campgrounds (do not know if anyone could pick up any channels) and the new tv (not the one that fell, I put that one in the kids room) has yet to pick up anything. I have removed the booster unit from the wall and everything looks fine, nothing was bent from the accident. I get nothing from the main jack that is on the faceplate or the jack that is on the circuit board labeled TV2 behind the faceplate in the wall. Camper is covered and the roof is not accessible right now. I am looking for experienced advice so when I get on the roof I will have a couple of ideas on how to trouble shoot this. I want to do more than unhook the cable and look at it and say "Well that looks good". My son has an antenna that he sticks on his wall at his house to get broadcast channels. I tried that and it did not work. Yes I live in the boondocks. I have the Winegard model that has an additional jack on the faceplate that does not go through the circuit board. It looks like this small trailer was wired for just one TV.

"It fell on the floor and almost tore the RCA jacks out of the back of the tv."

Are you saying that the tv is connected to the RCA jacks and not the antenna coax from the boosters face plate? The RCA jacks are used on some DVD/Stereos to send the video to the tv. The over-the-air (OTA) signal will not be channeled through the RCA jacks. Have you changed any cables going to the tv from the faceplate. Many times the center lead in the male F-type connectors are friction fit and can pull out easily without showing any external sign of damage to the coax.


"I am looking for experienced advice so when I get on the roof I will have a couple of ideas on how to trouble shoot this. I want to do more than unhook the cable and look at it and say "Well that looks good"."

I am going through my notes I made 2 years ago when I had problems with my tv getting progressive poor signals. I need to get the photos together and put them in a pdf document along with my notes. I should be done and have it posted here later today.

My problem turned out to be a bad solder joint on the circuit board on the Winegard face plate. I actually found it while having the tv on when I put the plate back in the wall. The tv was working fine and when I pushed the cables into the wall the signal was lost. I pulled the plate back out and the signal came back.
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Old 02-27-2019, 03:06 PM   #18
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That's a very good idea and easy to do. I wondered where the antenna lead from my radio actually goes.

I didn't like the poor reception that I was getting from the cheap 9" telescopic radio antenna that is located 6' from the ground on the side of my slideout where my tv and radio is located.


While I was fixing my problem with the booster/power injector I decided to add my stereo to the tv antenna. The antenna connection on the back of the radio is known as a Motorola connection. I bought a male F-type to Motorola connector and a 1Ghz 2-way splitter from Amazon.


While looking through my notes I mentioned earlier, I remembered why the solder joint cracked on my power injectors circuit board. The coax attaches up to the board and there was not enough space between the connections and the faceplate for the thin plywood panel to fit without forcing the two apart. I remedied that by buying some 45 degree male to female F connectors so the coax was not pushing on the board.
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:58 PM   #19
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Quail, here's the pdf documenting what I did when testing my problem. Read it over and if it helps you let me know. I was trying to include as much information and pictures as I could, but with a pdf file limit of 10.60 Mb. I had to shrink the pictures included by a lot and had to cut out several pictures and some text. Please ask if you have any further questions.


If you guys reading this pdf can give me pointers on how to make it more user friendly I would appreciate it. I am hoping it is good enough to upload in the forums library so anyone can benefit from it.
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File Type: pdf Testing Coax Cables.pdf (546.5 KB, 28 views)
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Old 04-01-2019, 10:00 PM   #20
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Winegard power injector, with continu.us ca 1500fmw antenna

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
The wall plate is NOT a booster. It is a powered antenna switch.

Its job is to manage the distribution of two TV source coaxes to the TVs in the rig. It concurrently routes 12 volt DC power over the roof antenna downlead to the signal amplifier located in the roof antenna (either a Jacks or Winegard).

When the wall plate light is ON, the TV side of the switch is connected to the TV1 and TV2 F2 connectors on the wall plate. From there, the signal goes through at least one splitter to the other TV locations in the RIG.

When the wall plate's light is OFF, the system's input is switched from the roof downlead to the CABLE direct run to the camper's outside wall input. The roof system then receives no power from the wall plate. Herk7769 gave me some good info that has got me this far.

If your wall plate has a 12volt DC socket, it will also have a TV1 located on the faceplate. It is hard wired to the one TV2 that is located on the back.
Ok this is what I now know about my antenna:

I have a Winegard power injector, with continu.us, ca1500fmw antenna. I tested all coaxial cables for shorts, opens, and continuity. The coaxial's all tested perfect. Now for the odd part. When I removed the antenna off the mount to check that coaxial, I took the antenna apart to make sure nothing LOOKED amiss, I noticed the circuit board was warm. I knew the trailer was running on 12 volts but I was sure the button for the power injector was off. I performed a voltage test at the antenna and found the coaxial was reading 12.6 volts with the injector button on or off. The voltage does not even waver when I turn the switch on and off while testing it. Of course the voltage disappears when you unhook the coaxial from the injector. I tried moving the output coaxial going to the TV on TV1 and Cable on the rear of the injector.

While it seems the injector is bad, I do not understand why I am not getting any signal to my TV when the antenna is obviously energized. Any Idea on how to test an antenna? Is the injector bad. I installed a new TV (just info).
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