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Old 10-16-2016, 10:53 PM   #1
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Batteries drain with WFCO converter. Normal?

I have a 2012 Wildwood with a WFCO ULTRA III Distribution Center, WF-8900 Series. I have noticed that although everything is turned off in the trailer the batteries would die during storage. I have inserted manual switches with all items I cannot turn off, i.e. radio LCD and propane sensor so the battery die is unexpected.


Today, with everything turned off, I also extracted all the 15A fuses in power converter panel and measured with an amp-meter more than 150mA current draw on the batteries.

I then extracted the 40A fuses associated with the "Reverse Polarity Protection" and noticed a spark. Using the amp-meter here I found that the connectors for the Reverse Polarity Protection are drawing current all the time.

I believe the "Reverse Polarity Protection" is causing my batteries to die.



Is this current draw normal for this type of converter providing “Reverse Polarity Protection”?


Thanks
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:23 PM   #2
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Every modern RV has parasitic battery drain. Instead of going to all that trouble with switches and fuses, why don't you install a cutoff switch at the battery, or remove the cables from the battery, when storing your rig?
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:47 AM   #3
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Parasitic drain is usually the CO detector and it is not removed from the load. Put a disconnect at the battery.
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:38 AM   #4
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Advice to add a disconnect is good. It is the only way to stop the drain.

Also understand the WFCO converters output lower voltage (13.6 volts) than true battery chargers, so your battery usually only charges to around 80 percent of full capacity.

Any time I need full battery capacity I fully charge with a portable battery charger.
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:01 PM   #5
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Advice to add a disconnect is good. It is the only way to stop the drain.

Also understand the WFCO converters output lower voltage (13.6 volts) than true battery chargers, so your battery usually only charges to around 80 percent of full capacity.

Any time I need full battery capacity I fully charge with a portable battery charger.
When the WFCO converters are working correctly (and most do, mine did not), they are true 3 stage battery chargers. 14.4V for boost mode, 13.6 is normal mode, and 13.2V for float. These are the same voltages used by PD converters. The normal mode alone will always fully charge a battery in decent condition - it make take a couple of days.

The boost mode (higher voltage) cannot be used safely once a battery is above 90% charge. The battery will begin gassing and boiling the water away.

Once fully charged, the charge voltage needs to be reduced again while maintaining the battery at full charge. 13.1 - 13.2 volts is considered the normal float voltage. A prolonged period of more than 13.2V at full charge causes gassing and water loss.

The knock on WFCO converters is that a too-high percentage of them will never enter boost and/or float mode (mine).

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Old 10-17-2016, 07:56 PM   #6
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Charging phases are Bulk, Absorb and Float plus equalize and some have battery saver or water saver. My batteries get maximum amps (80 at the start - deminishing) till volts get the 14.7v then Absorb begins where those high volts continue while amps keep dropping. Full is considered 2% (programmable) of total battery amp hour that's also set. 2% of 460Ah is 9.2A. Absorb is simply a timed period ... I use 90 minutes. The finish phase begins. For simplicity here lets say I choose Float... that's 13.2v continuously for several hours until mine goes into battery saver. All this is temperature compensated. Equalize is 15.3v and done with careful monitoring. The key to getting a good full charge is higher voltage. You will not cook or boil a good battery / batteries I can go from 50% to full (really full) in about 3 hours. A good converter can't match this. something else to consider is when you guys are looking for 14.4 (whatever) Bulk / Absorb the batteries have to be discharged far enough or it ain't happening.
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Old 10-18-2016, 11:37 AM   #7
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Agreed, you can charge faster with temperature compensation. I assume your charger is not in the battery compartment and has a remote temperature detection wire - otherwise the temp compensation is working on false info. And yes, you can use higher voltages for equalization - as you point out 15.3V with careful monitoring.

My point was not that the built-in converter is the fastest charger, but if working correctly, it will recharge your batteries to 100%, and will float them indefinitely. In other words, the stock WFCO converter (assumes working to spec), if left plugged in, will take care of your batteries without any monitoring or over-volting of the other DC components.

In my particular case (and I suspect many others), I don't need the fastest possible recharge, so I "make do" with a PD 4135 converter/distribution panel. I don't carry a generator or solar panels. When the batteries (dual 6V 232 AH Interstate) are down to 50% (4 nights or longer), my water tank is running low, fridge is low on food, and it's time to move the A-frame to a new location. My batteries get fully recharged (if the tow vehicle didn't do it on the way home) at home with the camper plugged in inside the garage.

I also installed a marine cut-off switch on the battery box (A-frames and PUPs don't come with any disconnect), so I can both disconnect ALL loads and isolate the batteries for trouble-shooting or electrical work.

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Old 10-18-2016, 01:31 PM   #8
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Boy has this thread gotten off track. The OP didn't ask about charging batteries.

The converter itself would not be draining the battery, the DC power from the battery goes through those 40A fuses before it goes to the trailer wiring. You have a parasitic draw from something like the CO detector etc. As mention earlier disconnect the battery cable or install a disconnect switch to remedy the problem.
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:12 PM   #9
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my point and true I went ad nauseum towards an off track post is that the main reason IMO that chasing a .2 to .3 amp drain when the cause could be something such as a bad or poorly charged battery. There is in fact a small load (DC) in the converter / WFCO panel with fuses removed. There is monitoring circuitry there. The spark noticed could have been a capacitor " surge " as it filled. With an ammeter find out how much the load is on the WFCO and converter; if its .2 - .3 amps that's not your problem.
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
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....that chasing a .2 to .3 amp drain when the cause could be something such as a bad or poorly charged battery.
Never heard of a low battery causing a .2 to.3 amp constant draw.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:33 AM   #11
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read carefully ... the WFCO; not the battery. A few tenths of an amp load would take a long time to drain a battery but could eventually. The panel itself offers that much load ... at least mine does. Mine is good; not sure if the OPs is ... not there to test it. That's why Ii suggested it be tested.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:46 AM   #12
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