Blown Tire Damage to Refrigerator Wiring

[GypsyJoker]

River Forest Grey Wolf 26RR. A catastrophic tire explosion driver's side rear tire; balled up the wheelhouse and wedged it on the front tire. Smashed the furnace vent, tore the copper propane line in two, ripped into the kitchen sink cabinet, and severed green and read low voltage wires that came from a grommet in the floor. Good Samaritans helped us limp into Grayling, MI where more helpful folks got us back on the road with 5 new tires. Arriving at our campground the AC 120v hookup works, but the refrigerator is dead. The 12v 15amp fuse blows immediately when trying to replace it, so there is a dead short to ground in the 12v wiring. The 15amp 120v breaker is not tripped. Any suggestions about how to get the refer going again just on 120v?

[bikendan]

Moved this post from someone else's thread to its own thread since this member's issues are completely different from the other member's thread.

[dalford]

Is it a residential fridge or a 2-way (propane, AC)?

If it is a 2 way there should be an access panel on the backside of the fridge (on outside wall). Remove this panel and there should be a 120 volt cord plugged into a receptacle. Unplug it and plug it into an extension cord.

The AC line was probably ripped out also…

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by dalford

Is it a residential fridge or a 2-way (propane, AC)?

If it is a 2 way there should be an access panel on the backside of the fridge (on outside wall). Remove this panel and there should be a 120 volt cord plugged into a receptacle. Unplug it and plug it into an extension cord.

The AC line was probably ripped out also…

X2........... it would help to know the make and model refrigerator. I see your camper is a 2016. Newer ones could even have a 12V refrigerator.

You may need a mobile RV repair technician.

[GypsyJoker]

Thanks for the immediate response. The fridge is a Norco 611VRW6. There is 120V at the receptacle behind the fridge and the circuit breaker did not trip. It must have 12V capability because only the 12V spade fuse was blown. A new fuse immediately blows so there is a dead short in that circuit. All other 12V circuits are working. We are camped on the North side of Kalamazoo, MI, and will be looking for mobile repair availability.

[Mokurt]

Can you trace the colored wiring to either end then splice?

[GypsyJoker]

The red and green wires were tangled behind the hub. They come out of a grommet on the floor along with a white and tan wire that disappear into a hole in the exterior wall. I may try to enlarge the hole (behind the cabinet) to see if that is where the wires are either connected or grounded. I apologize for the photo rotated 90*. I can't seem to upload it any other way.

[Mokurt]

Wow that really got messed up!

[mysery1]

Check out this link.https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c.../norcold-n611/

[GypsyJoker]

Thanks for the link, Mysery1.The service manual helped me to find the source of the problem. I am sure the fridge will work after I repair the gas line and find the short in the feed to the power board. The furnace will have to be replaced.

[GypsyJoker]

We removed the furnace and found the source of the ground. Repairing the wire and replacing the fuse and now the fridge powers up. The Air Conditioner will not turn on. Hoping it is a thermostat issue that will be solved when the new furnace is installed.
Now back to the green and red wires jerked out of the wall. I removed the tank's monitor/control center and found the tan and white wires still in place. The white wire seems to be ground and the tan wire is connected to a very light gauge wire that goes into the board on the back of the tank's monitor/control center. I am sure the green and red wires got pulled out of the connectors because a light gauge blue wire is not connected to anything. Is there any information or wiring diagrams for these monitor/control centers? I haven't been able to find one yet.