dometic fridge dm2652lbfx

coastal camper · 06-24-2015, 10:16 PM

The last 2 dry camping trips our fridge died by 2nd night. The ceiling lights still work but the check light comes on the fridge and it shuts down (the interior light is also out). When the fridge is on shore power it does not cycle as frequently as on battery which is constant on and off. Is there possible a problem with our inverter?

bob caldwell · 06-24-2015, 10:20 PM

Battery ok?

coastal camper · 06-25-2015, 10:03 AM

Yes. We sent the batteries to Interstate to be checked and they were fine. Also had them charged up at a battery place in the new year. Charged them up with the RV plug and checked cells with a hydrometer when the charge was complete and they registered fine. It's just that the fridge keeps cycling every 30 seconds. I unplugged the cord at 930 am yesterday and at 11pm the battery was down 1/3 according to the monitor. There have been no lights on, only the fridge.

bob caldwell · 06-25-2015, 10:09 AM

Go to the top of forum and enter the fridge model number and see what you can find out......in the search box

coastal camper · 06-25-2015, 10:21 AM

Thanks Bob. Tried the search but nothing pops out at me.

bob caldwell · 06-25-2015, 10:23 AM

Hang tough....somebody with,or had, that problem will respond....or, call the manif.

bob caldwell · 06-25-2015, 10:29 AM

I've always had mine plugged in here at home and just last week installed a volt meter on the battery, so next trip I'll know what the battery is doing.

prof_fate · 06-25-2015, 06:04 PM

it runs on propane, the 12v is used to start it and run the fan and interior light.
If you pull the outside vent cover you can check it for 12v - the AC is plugged in and the only other wires to the appliance from the coach are the 12v (white and white w/yellow on mine, probably same on all FR).

there is an electronic control box, electrode (aka igniter) that sparks to light the flame, and a thermocouple that will shut off the gas if there isn't heat from the flame.

could be bad igniter (moisture, age, cracks all kill them). If you are outside and listen when someone turns it on inside the ignitor will click if the controller is good (running on gas of course, not 110ac). The AC just heats an elment like in a coffee pot, fridge runs the same either way.

coastal camper · 06-25-2015, 06:09 PM

Thanks prof_f,
The fridge is cooling so I know the igniter has kicked in and the propane has ignited. It's just that stupid cycling goes on and off constantly and I'm sure that's what's eating up the battery. I'm going to go out and lift the outside cover and see if I can see what makes the noise.

prof_fate · 06-25-2015, 06:16 PM

there are videos on the fridges - lots of good info. The 'fan' is just a PC type fan and yes, it cycles a lot.

We've only run on gas while driving, rarely if ever when camping. Made one trip this year so far and the fridge won't start on gas...so I watched all the videos and today pulled the fridge out to change the drain line (dry rotted and found a kink up inside, should also with a p-trap in it have a cooler fridge).

I believe my ignitor (aka electrode) is bad..got a new one coming (nobody but nobody locally stocks one!). Leaving wednesday for a week..4 8 hour driving legs and I want my food (ok, the beer) to stay cold.

Our water heater is a base model w/ pilot light and it blows out if anyone in the campground even sneezes. I doubt the fridge would blow out though, lots of shields between teh fire and the outside world.

only other thought is air in the gas line, or low pressure - a low tank might be the culprit. The a/b valve will run off either tank (no matter how you have it set) so you can empty both tanks and not be aware of it.

Seems a tank lasts 30-45 camping nights, depending on how much you use it, the furnace, etc.

Steamfitter · 06-29-2015, 08:02 AM

Had the same problem this weekend. If first two lights are flashing then it is an over heat problem. On mine trailer the fridge is in the slide and has the side vent so has fans for cooling. Found the fuse holder and fuse to the fans corroded, so weren't running and unit tripped off on high heat. Cut fuse out and wired direct. All seems to be ok or now. Going to replace fuse holder with a water tight type.

bruceatlam · 06-29-2015, 05:09 PM

Are you sure that the door, when closed, is shutting off that fridge light??? If that's staying on with the door closed, it could account for some warming of the fridge and therefore cycling. Seems that I've read about some that don't shut off that light ----- and that could account for the draw on your battery too.

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