Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-23-2018, 07:31 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 16
Dometic fridge problem

I loaned out my 2006 Cardinal 31RKLE 5th wheel to a young family who had lost their home in the recent Campfire disaster here in N. Cal. It was plugged in to power at the cabinet shop he worked in and had water and sewer avail. About the second week they were in it he said the fridge had quit working on ac power but was fine on propane. They finally got relocated in permanent housing so I got my rig back yesterday. I plugged it in and turned the fridge on to Auto and the ac light is on but it's not cooling even though it's set at 5-the highest setting. I checked the breakers and fuses even though I'm getting indicator lights that tell me it has power. I also checked the little fuse in the fridge panel on the outside of the coach. As a side note, the microwave also quit working but the interior light comes on when you open the door but the front panel is dark-no clock or any other sign of life in it. Any advice? Thanks, Randy.
Itswett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2018, 08:57 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itswett View Post
I loaned out my 2006 Cardinal 31RKLE 5th wheel to a young family who had lost their home in the recent Campfire disaster here in N. Cal. It was plugged in to power at the cabinet shop he worked in and had water and sewer avail. About the second week they were in it he said the fridge had quit working on ac power but was fine on propane. They finally got relocated in permanent housing so I got my rig back yesterday. I plugged it in and turned the fridge on to Auto and the ac light is on but it's not cooling even though it's set at 5-the highest setting. I checked the breakers and fuses even though I'm getting indicator lights that tell me it has power. I also checked the little fuse in the fridge panel on the outside of the coach. As a side note, the microwave also quit working but the interior light comes on when you open the door but the front panel is dark-no clock or any other sign of life in it. Any advice? Thanks, Randy.
I might want to look at the main power connection behind the fuse panel if I were comfortable with troubleshooting electrical systems. Shore and battery power disconnected of course.
myxkp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2018, 06:07 PM   #3
Head Rambler
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 8,167
It could be the electric element is burned out.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
Bama Rambler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2018, 02:45 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: East Berlin
Posts: 724
X2 to Bama Rambler's post.
Rich5117 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2018, 03:51 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 606
Or the AC power plug has fallen out of its receptacle, has been reported before...
johnbryanpeters is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2018, 04:47 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: N. CA
Posts: 258
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itswett View Post
I loaned out my 2006 Cardinal 31RKLE 5th wheel to a young family who had lost their home in the recent Campfire disaster here in N. Cal.
Kudos to your kindness!
Dp26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2018, 01:30 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,238
Unfortunately, there are many possible explanations for your fridge issues. If you are at all handy, start with checking for 120 volts at every stage starting with the circuit breaker and working downstream to the connections for the 120V heating coil.

However, I'm afraid the microwave failure is related. You may have a voltage surge situation that took out both the microwave and the 120v section of the fridge control board.

just my suggestions, I hope I'm wrong and there is something very simple
Fred W
pgandw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2018, 09:42 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 826
My bet is on a power surge event. Two AC appliance anomalies—hopefully that is all that was affected.

Good on you-for allowing them to use your rig in such a desperate situation. Your reward will be far greater than the cost/frustration of this issue.
__________________
2016 RAM 3500 DRW 4x4 LB LoneStar Edition, w/Timbrens, Andersen Ultimate 2, Swift Hitch SH04 WiFi Backup/Rear View Camera
2018 Chaparral 360IBL w/Tireminder SMART TPMS, Furrion Wireless Observation System, Progressive EMS-HW50C
2006 RAM 3500 DRW LoneStar Edition
2011 Starcraft 392BHU w/Andersen No-Sway hitch
chaps2018 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2018, 04:40 PM   #9
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 16
Unhappy

Thanks for the replies/suggestions everyone. I checked the fridge plug in the access panel and my meter shows 130 volts at the receptical. The 2 fuses on the circuit board are good so I ordered a heating element that should be here in the next day or so but I'm afraid this may be the board itself. I switched the fridge back to ac power and the indicator light on the fridge lit up as it should. I took my voltmeter and checked for power at the circuit board where the heating element wires are connected but don't get any power there. The wires were still connected to the board so I should've had a reading there.
As to the microwave-haven't pursued that yet but agree with the others here that there must have been a power supply problem at some point.
Did I mention that I also found a crack at the support flange area on my black tank? I got a call one day that there was foul smelling water leaking out the bottom of the rig so after draining the tanks and removing the small access panel I discovered all the insulation was soaked with black tank water. I have one of the metal floor panels removed now so I could remove the insulation. I think I can fix the crack with some of the "as seen on tv" flex seal, reinsulate and reinstall the floor pan panel. The microwave is at the bottom of my list for now but I'll get to it. Anybody want to trade places?
Itswett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2018, 05:25 PM   #10
Site Team
 
Flybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 11,698
Is it possible that the person who borrowed it tried to connect it to a 220V plug for a dryer or welder at the shop.
__________________

2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
Flybob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2018, 08:14 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
Is it possible that the person who borrowed it tried to connect it to a 220V plug for a dryer or welder at the shop.
I don't think so. I did the original hook up of power and water but a couple of days later 2 more people who lost their home also came out to the shop with RV's. My rig got connected to power with a 100' extension cord that couldn't handle the power-it was a 15 amp receptacle. Thanks for all the responses. Randy.
Itswett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2018, 09:39 PM   #12
Coach
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Western PA
Posts: 667
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itswett View Post
Did I mention that I also found a crack at the support flange area on my black tank? I got a call one day that there was foul smelling water leaking out the bottom of the rig so after draining the tanks and removing the small access panel I discovered all the insulation was soaked with black tank water. I have one of the metal floor panels removed now so I could remove the insulation. I think I can fix the crack with some of the "as seen on tv" flex seal, reinsulate and reinstall the floor pan panel. The microwave is at the bottom of my list for now but I'll get to it. Anybody want to trade places?
If possible, maybe try to epoxyweld that crack before you spray any flexseal on it? Epoxy would offer a more permanent fix and then your flexseal can be an added layer of protection.
__________________
Cut it 3 times and it's still too short...

2017 Sandpiper 381RBOK
2006 Ram 3500 Cummins Dually
valleyduo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2018, 02:26 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itswett View Post
Thanks for the replies/suggestions everyone. I checked the fridge plug in the access panel and my meter shows 130 volts at the receptical. The 2 fuses on the circuit board are good so I ordered a heating element that should be here in the next day or so but I'm afraid this may be the board itself. I switched the fridge back to ac power and the indicator light on the fridge lit up as it should. I took my voltmeter and checked for power at the circuit board where the heating element wires are connected but don't get any power there. The wires were still connected to the board so I should've had a reading there.
As to the microwave-haven't pursued that yet but agree with the others here that there must have been a power supply problem at some point.
Did I mention that I also found a crack at the support flange area on my black tank? I got a call one day that there was foul smelling water leaking out the bottom of the rig so after draining the tanks and removing the small access panel I discovered all the insulation was soaked with black tank water. I have one of the metal floor panels removed now so I could remove the insulation. I think I can fix the crack with some of the "as seen on tv" flex seal, reinsulate and reinstall the floor pan panel. The microwave is at the bottom of my list for now but I'll get to it. Anybody want to trade places?
They weren't on a surge protector?
myxkp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2018, 07:33 AM   #14
Head Rambler
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 8,167
Be aware that of that tank is a poly tank, almost nothing is going to stick to it. Also, if the crack is at or near the support flange, there's a lot of stress in that area and a repair may not hold if you travel with liquid in it.

As for the fridge element, you can unhook it and test it for resistance to see if it's good or not. But it does sound like the control board is the culprit.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
Bama Rambler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2018, 08:54 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Windjammingnc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 190
Our neighbor has gone through 3 110V Heating elements in their Dometic fridge. Same symptoms as you have. The technician is stumped as to what may be causing the elements to burn out and is reaching out to Dometic for some suggestions.
__________________
Paul and Angela
Raleigh, NC
2018 Windjammer 3008w
Windjammingnc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2018, 09:07 PM   #16
Site Team
 
Flybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 11,698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itswett View Post
I don't think so. I did the original hook up of power and water but a couple of days later 2 more people who lost their home also came out to the shop with RV's. My rig got connected to power with a 100' extension cord that couldn't handle the power-it was a 15 amp receptacle. Thanks for all the responses. Randy.
This may explain the microwave issue. If it was run on a 100Ft extension cord, the voltage drop could have caused the RF section of the microwave to overheat and fail. The lower voltage would not damage the light so it would still work.
__________________

2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
Flybob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2018, 09:41 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
SailorSam20500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 3,267
Itswett said the trailer was hooked to a 100 ft extension and 15 amps. Wondering if the culprit is low voltage instead of a surge. Low voltage could have compromised the electronics of both the fridge and microwave. I'd check everything with a control board in it. Just a thought...
__________________
Al
Save the Earth. It’s the only known planet with Beer.
There are times where my greatest accomplishment is keeping my mouth shut...

S.E. Mich. Flagstaff 26FKWS / 2019 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost SCrew Propride
SailorSam20500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2018, 12:22 AM   #18
Just as confused as you
 
Scrapper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Wilderness CG, WI
Posts: 4,274
Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorSam20500 View Post
Itswett said the trailer was hooked to a 100 ft extension and 15 amps. Wondering if the culprit is low voltage instead of a surge. Low voltage could have compromised the electronics of both the fridge and microwave. I'd check everything with a control board in it. Just a thought...

Other than the heating element of the fridge both control boards are 12vdc powered. I would think if there is damage to the 12vdc side it would start at the converter. I could be wrong.

Itswett also said "I switched the fridge back to ac power and the indicator light on the fridge lit up as it should. I took my voltmeter and checked for power at the circuit board where the heating element wires are connected but don't get any power there. The wires were still connected to the board so I should've had a reading there."

So it definitely is the rear control board that is the problem and not likely the heating element. A resistance test will verify the element is good.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, seasonal since 2000
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
I deserve hazard pay when camping with my relatives.
Scrapper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2018, 01:04 PM   #19
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 16
Thanks to everyone for your input on my electrical issues. I'll check resistance on the heating element but fear you all are right about the circuit board. I'll check availability with the local RV parts place on Monday. Would a surge protector have prevented this? I have one on order from Camping World but wonder if would've helped with low voltage? Randy.
Itswett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2018, 01:26 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 606
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itswett View Post
Thanks to everyone for your input on my electrical issues. I'll check resistance on the heating element but fear you all are right about the circuit board. I'll check availability with the local RV parts place on Monday. Would a surge protector have prevented this? I have one on order from Camping World but wonder if would've helped with low voltage? Randy.
A surge protector will do nothing for low voltage.
johnbryanpeters is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
dometic, fridge

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:16 PM.