Dometic Gas/Electric fridge ?

[jbhodj]

My Dometic has 2 switches, on off and auto/gas button. When hooked to shore power and on auto and gas turned off you can hear it trying to light the heater and then check light comes on. Turn on propane and purge, the turn off and back on the fridge lights burner although it's set to auto which I thought would not use any propane to run. Is this normal for the burner to light when running on electric? It will run with propane switch selected just fine with gas in but won't run in auto with gas off




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[TURBS]

Pull outside cover and make sure fridge is plugged in. [emoji6][emoji106]
If it is plugged in check the circuit breaker in your distribution panel.


2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
2016 nights camped "14"

[itat]

I agree with TURBS. It doesn't seem to be getting 120 VAC power. Although, I'd check them in the opposite order just because its easier to check the breaker.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by itat

I agree with TURBS. It doesn't seem to be getting 120 VAC power. Although, I'd check them in the opposite order just because its easier to check the breaker.

I'd agree [emoji12]


2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
2016 nights camped "14"

[Cajun Style]

Check your GFI in the bathroom it might be tripped!


Harry-O

[jbhodj]

Power and GFI checked as well as breaker box. Checked power at plug and good there so may have panel issue I'm guessing or something else


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[Bama Rambler]

There have been a couple of reports of the button (Eyebrow) board not making contact when the buttons are pressed, and the units staying on gas when Auto was selected.

[Flybob]

Check with the auto/gas button in other position.

[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Check with the auto/gas button in other position.

Tried that and when propane is selected it runs on propane


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[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

There have been a couple of reports of the button (Eyebrow) board not making contact when the buttons are pressed, and the units staying on gas when Auto was selected.

When you say eyebrow what are you referring to?


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[jbhodj]

Update. So I did some more digging into this checking voltages and amps in several areas and found the small 5a 250v bus fuse was blown on the control panel. Not sure why this blew but replaced it after checking I have correct volts across that fuse which was fine. Checked the element and talking with a tech it sounds like my element may have an issue. Suggested that I start the fridge on propane to cool first then switch over to electric and see what transpires then. If it fails we have a deeper issue which is the way I'm leaning now and will take it into dealer.


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[MartiB]

Originally Posted by jbhodj

My Dometic has 2 switches, on off and auto/gas button. When hooked to shore power and on auto and gas turned off you can hear it trying to light the heater and then check light comes on. Turn on propane and purge, the turn off and back on the fridge lights burner although it's set to auto which I thought would not use any propane to run. Is this normal for the burner to light when running on electric? It will run with propane switch selected just fine with gas in but won't run in auto with gas off

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Not sure if this is the same issue but most times when I turn the fridge on, the Auto light comes on and I think all is well. A few minutes later, the Check light comes on. If I turn the fridge off and then back on again- all is working fine.

[dieselguy]

mjbuckely ... assuming you're not hooked to shore power ... if you have had the propane off for a few days or have refilled the bottle ... it's best to turn on a burner valve to your stove top and light it just for a few seconds. This purges the gas line of air quicker than your fridge can do it. Your fridge won't time out trying to light off on propane triggering the check light.

[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

mjbuckely ... assuming you're not hooked to shore power ... if you have had the propane off for a few days or have refilled the bottle ... it's best to turn on a burner valve to your stove top and light it just for a few seconds. This purges the gas line of air quicker than your fridge can do it. Your fridge won't time out trying to light off on propane triggering the check light.

Hooked up to shore power and have purged. Issue is Not running on shore power, runs on propane fine


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[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by mjbuckely

Not sure if this is the same issue but most times when I turn the fridge on, the Auto light comes on and I think all is well. A few minutes later, the Check light comes on. If I turn the fridge off and then back on again- all is working fine.

Have tried this too and didn't help but thanks for advice


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[MartiB]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

mjbuckely ... assuming you're not hooked to shore power ... if you have had the propane off for a few days or have refilled the bottle ... it's best to turn on a burner valve to your stove top and light it just for a few seconds. This purges the gas line of air quicker than your fridge can do it. Your fridge won't time out trying to light off on propane triggering the check light.

I usually do light the stove first. Has happened both on propane and on shore power. Will watch more carefully to see if it happens again. Thanks.

[pmsherman]

If your fridge is like my Dometic 2-way, the AC circuit should be drawing around 2.5A when cooling. A 5A fuse should never blow. The electric heating element draws the most power when it's cool (ie first starting to heat) which means that you should be able to check the heating element with a good ohmmeter.

Disconnect the electric heater wires from the control board and measure the resistance between them. You should measure somewhere around 48 ohms. If you measure 25 ohms or less, you'll definitely blow the 5A fuse and even at 30 ohms, you'll be pushing the fuse's capacity. Harbor Freight has digital VOM meters with AC clamp-on capabilities for around $25.

Phil

[jbhodj]

Originally Posted by pmsherman

If your fridge is like my Dometic 2-way, the AC circuit should be drawing around 2.5A when cooling. A 5A fuse should never blow. The electric heating element draws the most power when it's cool (ie first starting to heat) which means that you should be able to check the heating element with a good ohmmeter.

Disconnect the electric heater wires from the control board and measure the resistance between them. You should measure somewhere around 48 ohms. If you measure 25 ohms or less, you'll definitely blow the 5A fuse and even at 30 ohms, you'll be pushing the fuse's capacity. Harbor Freight has digital VOM meters with AC clamp-on capabilities for around $25.

Phil

I have a good ohm meter and will do exactly what your suggesting and update soon


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[DouglasReid]

If it turns out that your electric element is shorted out it is a relatively simple job to replace it if you are even mildly mechanical.

You need to disconnect the refrigerator, in the back, remove the mounting screws in the front and back and slide it into the living area to access the heating element. (there are several u-tube videos showing what I am describing)
The heating element has two wires and simply slips into a tube on the rear of the cooling unit. Hook the new wires where the old ones were connected and you are done.
Save you MANY dollars at the RV dealer and can be done in a couple hours rather than waiting days or weeks to get yoru RV back.

[dcheatwood]

Mine did this recently and I found a blown fuse behind a cover in the outside, lower access. It was a vertical glass fuse.