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Old 09-22-2021, 10:14 AM   #1
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Dometic Refrigerator

Hello, Newbie here, I purchased a new-to-me 2011 wildwood 29bhbs[/SIZE]. It has a DOMETIC fridge. The fridge will only work when on gas. When I put it on "AUTO" and have the trailer plugged in it does not cool. I am familiar with boats and fridges but not travel trailers. My Boat fridge has its own breaker is that the same as on trailer? Is there some troubleshooting tricks I can do to test the fridge?

Note: I don't have it plugged into a 30 AMP I have the converter plug for a regular 15 AMP...Does the fridge actually need the 30 AMP plug outlet?

Sorry if this has been already asked and answered, I did review the forum but cannot find anything. Again although I am familiar with boats I am a newbie to travel trailers so please be gentle if I am missing something simple
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Old 09-22-2021, 10:29 AM   #2
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There is a heater that is powered by 110 when on electric. You can open the access panel on the outside and see it. Perhaps the 110v plug is out or the breaker is off.
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Old 09-22-2021, 10:38 AM   #3
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The fridge does not require a 30 amp connection, but does require a continuous 120V source to operate on electric selected in the auto mode. Are you sure that the fridge is getting 120V where it is plugged in? What model Dometic fridge do you have?
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:06 AM   #4
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thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs and the fridge is a DOMETIC 2351 (I Think) I don't have the user manual for the trailer.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:08 AM   #5
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thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs I don't have the user manual for the trailer
There may be a fuse on the unit. Mine was plugged into 110 volt inside the outside access panel. Don't know if it has its own breaker on the panel or shares it with another circuit. Either way, there should be a standard outlet inside the access panel. Easy to see if it is powered.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:12 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by PGATOO View Post
thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs and the fridge is a DOMETIC 2351 (I Think) I don't have the user manual for the trailer.
Locate your breaker panel. It should include breakers for electric hook up, and an assortment of fuses for everything 12 volt. It should be located either at the base of the bed, above or below the fridge, or low down near the floor. It’s a panel that could measure 12”x12” approximately.
Also, open the lower outside grill of your fridge to see if there’s power at the outlet located inside there.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:15 AM   #7
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ok thanks, it is plugged into a regular outlet with the plug adapter from 30 AMP cord to regular plug so it is getting 110. I opened the access panel and did see a plug there and it was plugged in.I will put a meter on some things over the weekend and report back what i find on Monday. Thanks again for your quick rplies.
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:19 AM   #8
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@KenandTerry thanks I will look for the panel this weekend when I get up to the trailer, thanks very much for the guidance. I belong to Boat forums and you guys are by far the quickest to reply LOL...thanks from an old boater converted to a trailer guy!
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGATOO View Post
thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs and the fridge is a DOMETIC 2351 (I Think) I don't have the user manual for the trailer.
Here is a manual for you:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Dometic Refrig Diagnostics.pdf (2.42 MB, 23 views)
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Old 09-22-2021, 11:51 AM   #10
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I had this issue. I found a blown glass fuse under a black plastic cover that I accessed from the outside of the RV. Take the outside vent cover off and the black cover should be in there somewhere. It was a bear to get off because of where it's mounted. The glass fuse was about 3/4 inch long and maybe 3 or 5 Amp.
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Old 09-22-2021, 12:39 PM   #11
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Thanks

What a friendly helpful bunch you have here. Thanks very much everyone for your troubleshooting help. I will report back on Monday after trying the different solutions. Thanks again...Great Forum!
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Old 09-27-2021, 12:14 PM   #12
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update

after testing all the fuses and breakers as will as the board, I have come to the conclusion it is the heating element was toast. Thank you everyone for the help and all who replied.
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Old 10-04-2021, 08:47 AM   #13
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update

Repair successful! Put in a new heating element and the fridge is back at being its cold self again. Thanks for all the help and advice. Cheers!
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Old 10-04-2021, 01:47 PM   #14
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Thanks for coming back and telling us what the issue was and your successful repair!
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Old 10-08-2021, 09:11 AM   #15
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after testing all the fuses and breakers as will as the board, I have come to the conclusion it is the heating element was toast. Thank you everyone for the help and all who replied.

I'm having the same issue. About to start trouble shooting. How do you determine if the heater is bad?


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Old 10-08-2021, 05:54 PM   #16
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I'm having the same issue. About to start trouble shooting. How do you determine if the heater is bad?


Brian

After a few youtube videos I've checked 120VAC power to the heater (good) and ohms (44.4) which I think 10.1% high though I can't find anywhere what it should be. I believe earlier in this thread someone said 40. Putting an infrared thermometer on it showed 141 degrees. One of the youtube videos said they thought it should be approximately 360 degrees. Would anyone confirm I'm on the right track by replacing the heater?


Thanks.
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Old 10-08-2021, 06:14 PM   #17
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seems that it is something like 44 ohms which is 327 watts. Spec says 325 watts so you are good. However, 141 degrees is way to low. Might be a drive problem.
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Old 10-08-2021, 06:27 PM   #18
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seems that it is something like 44 ohms which is 327 watts. Spec says 325 watts so you are good. However, 141 degrees is way to low. Might be a drive problem.

So rather than the heater, the lower control board?
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Old 10-08-2021, 06:44 PM   #19
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So rather than the heater, the lower control board?
I would follow the heater wires back to the board and see what the voltage across the heater is when running on AC.
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Old 10-09-2021, 08:36 AM   #20
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I would follow the heater wires back to the board and see what the voltage across the heater is when running on AC.

Voltages...


At plug 120
both sides of fuse 119
at board going to heater 119


Unfortunately my multimeter doesn't do amps so I'm not able to see what the heater is drawing. Hope to solve that problem today!
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