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09-22-2021, 10:14 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 7
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Dometic Refrigerator
Hello, Newbie here, I purchased a new-to-me 2011 wildwood 29bhbs[/SIZE]. It has a DOMETIC fridge. The fridge will only work when on gas. When I put it on "AUTO" and have the trailer plugged in it does not cool. I am familiar with boats and fridges but not travel trailers. My Boat fridge has its own breaker is that the same as on trailer? Is there some troubleshooting tricks I can do to test the fridge?
Note: I don't have it plugged into a 30 AMP I have the converter plug for a regular 15 AMP...Does the fridge actually need the 30 AMP plug outlet?
Sorry if this has been already asked and answered, I did review the forum but cannot find anything. Again although I am familiar with boats I am a newbie to travel trailers so please be gentle if I am missing something simple
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09-22-2021, 10:29 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englewood FL
Posts: 2,797
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There is a heater that is powered by 110 when on electric. You can open the access panel on the outside and see it. Perhaps the 110v plug is out or the breaker is off.
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2015 335DS
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09-22-2021, 10:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 6,594
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The fridge does not require a 30 amp connection, but does require a continuous 120V source to operate on electric selected in the auto mode. Are you sure that the fridge is getting 120V where it is plugged in? What model Dometic fridge do you have?
__________________
'07 K3500 Silverado LT Crew Duramax (LBZ)
2016 Salem 27RKSS
1984 CHEV SCOTTSDALE K20 2GCGK24J0E1XXXXXX (Chevrolet Legends-Class of 2019)
"...exhaust fluid? We don't need no stinkin' exhaust fluid"
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09-22-2021, 11:06 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 7
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thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs and the fridge is a DOMETIC 2351 (I Think) I don't have the user manual for the trailer.
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09-22-2021, 11:08 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englewood FL
Posts: 2,797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGATOO
thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs I don't have the user manual for the trailer
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There may be a fuse on the unit. Mine was plugged into 110 volt inside the outside access panel. Don't know if it has its own breaker on the panel or shares it with another circuit. Either way, there should be a standard outlet inside the access panel. Easy to see if it is powered.
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2015 335DS
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09-22-2021, 11:12 AM
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#6
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGATOO
thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs and the fridge is a DOMETIC 2351 (I Think) I don't have the user manual for the trailer.
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Locate your breaker panel. It should include breakers for electric hook up, and an assortment of fuses for everything 12 volt. It should be located either at the base of the bed, above or below the fridge, or low down near the floor. It’s a panel that could measure 12”x12” approximately.
Also, open the lower outside grill of your fridge to see if there’s power at the outlet located inside there.
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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09-22-2021, 11:15 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 7
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ok thanks, it is plugged into a regular outlet with the plug adapter from 30 AMP cord to regular plug so it is getting 110. I opened the access panel and did see a plug there and it was plugged in.I will put a meter on some things over the weekend and report back what i find on Monday. Thanks again for your quick rplies.
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09-22-2021, 11:19 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 7
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@KenandTerry thanks I will look for the panel this weekend when I get up to the trailer, thanks very much for the guidance. I belong to Boat forums and you guys are by far the quickest to reply LOL...thanks from an old boater converted to a trailer guy!
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09-22-2021, 11:42 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 6,594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGATOO
thanks for the quick reply, i will be going up this weekend. There are two fuses a 5A and a 3A that I will be checking them. Question from a newbie here but I do not know where the breaker would be? any idea on a 2011 wildwood 29bhbs and the fridge is a DOMETIC 2351 (I Think) I don't have the user manual for the trailer.
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Here is a manual for you:
__________________
'07 K3500 Silverado LT Crew Duramax (LBZ)
2016 Salem 27RKSS
1984 CHEV SCOTTSDALE K20 2GCGK24J0E1XXXXXX (Chevrolet Legends-Class of 2019)
"...exhaust fluid? We don't need no stinkin' exhaust fluid"
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09-22-2021, 11:51 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,321
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I had this issue. I found a blown glass fuse under a black plastic cover that I accessed from the outside of the RV. Take the outside vent cover off and the black cover should be in there somewhere. It was a bear to get off because of where it's mounted. The glass fuse was about 3/4 inch long and maybe 3 or 5 Amp.
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09-22-2021, 12:39 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 7
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Thanks
What a friendly helpful bunch you have here. Thanks very much everyone for your troubleshooting help. I will report back on Monday after trying the different solutions. Thanks again...Great Forum!
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09-27-2021, 12:14 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 7
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update
after testing all the fuses and breakers as will as the board, I have come to the conclusion it is the heating element was toast. Thank you everyone for the help and all who replied.
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10-04-2021, 08:47 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 7
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update
Repair successful! Put in a new heating element and the fridge is back at being its cold self again. Thanks for all the help and advice. Cheers!
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10-04-2021, 01:47 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Almost Tijuana
Posts: 1,233
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Thanks for coming back and telling us what the issue was and your successful repair!
__________________
I just want to be outside!!!
'17 Salem Cruise Lite 210RBXL
'11 F150 5.0
Only one shedding mutt now RIP Yoshi
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10-08-2021, 09:11 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: East Texas
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGATOO
after testing all the fuses and breakers as will as the board, I have come to the conclusion it is the heating element was toast. Thank you everyone for the help and all who replied.
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I'm having the same issue. About to start trouble shooting. How do you determine if the heater is bad?
Brian
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10-08-2021, 05:54 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: East Texas
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txh2oskier
I'm having the same issue. About to start trouble shooting. How do you determine if the heater is bad?
Brian
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After a few youtube videos I've checked 120VAC power to the heater (good) and ohms (44.4) which I think 10.1% high though I can't find anywhere what it should be. I believe earlier in this thread someone said 40. Putting an infrared thermometer on it showed 141 degrees. One of the youtube videos said they thought it should be approximately 360 degrees. Would anyone confirm I'm on the right track by replacing the heater?
Thanks.
Brian
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10-08-2021, 06:14 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englewood FL
Posts: 2,797
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seems that it is something like 44 ohms which is 327 watts. Spec says 325 watts so you are good. However, 141 degrees is way to low. Might be a drive problem.
__________________
2015 335DS
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10-08-2021, 06:27 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: East Texas
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein
seems that it is something like 44 ohms which is 327 watts. Spec says 325 watts so you are good. However, 141 degrees is way to low. Might be a drive problem.
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So rather than the heater, the lower control board?
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10-08-2021, 06:44 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englewood FL
Posts: 2,797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txh2oskier
So rather than the heater, the lower control board?
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I would follow the heater wires back to the board and see what the voltage across the heater is when running on AC.
__________________
2015 335DS
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10-09-2021, 08:36 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: East Texas
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein
I would follow the heater wires back to the board and see what the voltage across the heater is when running on AC.
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Voltages...
At plug 120
both sides of fuse 119
at board going to heater 119
Unfortunately my multimeter doesn't do amps so I'm not able to see what the heater is drawing. Hope to solve that problem today!
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