Dometic Refrigerator Model RM1350SLMX

[mobileh]

Has anybody had problems keeping proper cooling temps in their dometic fridge? Mine will not maintain required temps to protect the items . New RV this spring.

[Bama Rambler]

There are lots of threads here about fridges not cooling as expected.

Do you have the thermister clipped to the uppermost right fin?
Is the fridge in a slide?
What have you done, or had done to fix the problem?
Have you checked the fan(s) in the outside chase to see if it's running?

[Bilcin]

Originally Posted by mobileh

Has anybody had problems keeping proper cooling temps in their dometic fridge? Mine will not maintain required temps to protect the items . New RV this spring.

What is the model# of the fridge?

[SeaDog]

Originally Posted by mobileh

Has anybody had problems keeping proper cooling temps in their dometic fridge? Mine will not maintain required temps to protect the items . New RV this spring.

Are you saying your fridge does not get cold enough? Most RV fridges cycle somewhat. Mine gets very cold and then warms up and little and then back to cold. It always stays in the blue range on my fridge thermometer Make sure you are on the coldest setting for your unit.

[Grampa Jim]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

There are lots of threads here about fridges not cooling as expected.

Do you have the thermister clipped to the uppermost right fin?
Is the fridge in a slide?
What have you done, or had done to fix the problem?
Have you checked the fan(s) in the outside chase to see if it's running?

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Mobileh,,,,,,What Bama says is critical.....you need to address it and let us know what your findings are so we can offer better help.

[polishapple]

Originally Posted by mobileh

Has anybody had problems keeping proper cooling temps in their dometic fridge? Mine will not maintain required temps to protect the items . New RV this spring.

Make sure you are not blocking the fins this will cause the Frig. to stay warm.

[ledunn]

I have a 2016 with the same problems. It takes at least 30 hrs to get temp to 35-38. Dealer blamed thermistor for problem, replaced it. Went camping and temps reached over 50. Took it back to dealer and they kept it 3 weeks watching the temp. The weather had cooled off and they said it worked fine. I had it running at home and temp has stayed 36-42. I'm keeping a record on times door is opened and what is in frig. Dealer said they did nothing to unit but it sounds like the fans are blowing harder. There are 4 fans on this frig. Hope you get it figured out.

[ProfChuck]

I had the same problem with my "automatic" refrigerator. Previous one had a dial and I could regulate it, but, the new one was "self regulating." This summer after trying to move the sensor up the fin, I discovered that the cable through the fridge was actually movable and there was an extra bit of it in the back of the unit. I pushed about 2 inches more of the line through the hole and moved the sensor up higher on the fin. Presto, the unit got cold (about 33 avg.) and has been working like a champ ever since. Wouldn't have thought that little movement would make so much difference, but, it certainly seemed to. We keep a wireless thermometer sender in the fridge to monitor the temp without opening the door. You may want to check the back of yours and see if the wire can be moved. I actually still had more I could have moved, but, the two inches was enough.

[ledunn]

The thermistor on this model is fastened to the top of unit, in front of the fins.

[5picker]

The OP's refrigerator is a 4 door model.
I have the same refrigerator.

The thermister is not movable and is not attached to the fins.

I have had good luck by adding fans in the back to move air and adding a fan to the inner cooling fins.

But honestly, the biggest improvement in cooling came when we discovered the flapper attached to the lower left door (that seals the right door when closed) did NOT rotate to the closed position properly.

On these 4 door refrigerators, there is a plastic flapper panel (about 2" wide attached to the left lower door that acts as the divider between the doors when closed. It is designed to rotate and flip backwards if you want to open only the left lower door.

There are cutouts in the refrigerator body that swing the flapper into and out of place to make this happen. We've found the flapper doesn't always come back to a full 90º position to create an air tight seal for the right door.

You can not see this when both doors are close but if the refrigerator has been on for a while and you get down near the floor and get close, you can feel the cold pouring out.
It only takes a little 1/8" gap to make this happen.

I have not found a way to adjust so we have simply got into the habit of opening the right door and pulling the flapper forward (near the center of it) with our hand to position it properly.

By doing the things I've mentioned, our refrigerator temps easily maintain 30-35º.

[tuxedo]

Believe I have same model in a 2014. Getting ours right (new major parts)is a saga, but easily overlooked is the poor install/build by FR. Get the install booklet that came w ref and follow it. ie insulate and close off excessive clearances top and sides. Also I put a curved sheet plastic baffle such as to smoothly deflect heat out top vent and by preventing heat from going any higher. guidlines

And yes opening doors causes large drops. But look up the recommended box and freezer temps. Do not have info near me but memory says it is like 33 to 36 for ref and 0 deg or lower for freezer. These temps are important. Mine now meets these safe food temps.

[The_Rhino]

While camping in the Smoky Mountains I left our Dometic running on propane while we parked on an incline & ate dinner. After that it never cooled to 40 in temps above 70. I tried upgrading the thermistor & control board (then returning) which did nothing. I figured my Amonia had crystalized because the freezer portion still worked, just not the fridge... So...

I replaced our smaller 8 cu. ft. Dometic with an 11.8 cu. ft. Whirlpool residential fridge & couldn't be happier. The Whirlpool was only $300 at a Sears Outlet & ran my own 110 wire from a $100 2000W inverter installed in the pass-through storage. I also added a 2nd battery. A larger fridge would be better-off with 4...

Now it only takes an hour to cool before we load & go. It also cools back down quickly after leaving it open to load. It's pegged at 38 even when the RV is parked in our drive & the temps out are 95 & temps inside are 100...

Also, we dry camped for 4 days without any issues - just charged batteries for a couple hours every afternoon... IMO WAY better than propane because I can turn-off my propane tanks while traveling & just let it run off my RV batteries which are charged via TV...