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Old 11-09-2020, 10:14 PM   #21
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Thanks, I've not seen any of them.

Watts is watts. Anyone got real numbers?

The only refrigerator handy right now is in my kitchen (might as well grab a beer too and not waste a trip ) and at full load is rated at 7.2a at 115v or 828 watts. 828 watts at 12.6v is 66 amps. Even is they're only 350 watts they'll still draw 30 amps. At peak. At 50% duty cycle, though that's 15 amps x 24 hours or 360 amphours a day; at 25% 180 amphours/day.

I'll take propane as my camper refrigerator can run for weeks on one cylinder and I just need enough 12vDC to keep the logic board running. That pulls 0.12 amps or about 20 amphours/week.

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Old 11-09-2020, 10:24 PM   #22
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Definitely go dual unless you plan to keep the TT permanently in a RV park with 365 reliable power. In CA we are subjected to Utility Co (PGE) turning off the power for days at a time, so I would not consider the AC only. Resale may be less with AC only.
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Old 11-09-2020, 10:47 PM   #23
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You are partially right. The 12V refrigerators are like a residential refrigerator however the compressor is 12V rather than 120V. They are definitely a power hog though.
Perhaps you are correct for some 12 volt refrigerator models, but the Everchill/Magic Chef/Furrion? WD-282FWDC 12 volt DC refrigerators have an internal inverter that runs an AC compressor. The compressor itself in the 12 volt refrigerator is not a 12 volt DC compressor. The schematic is on the rating label right inside the refrigerator.
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Old 11-10-2020, 07:03 AM   #24
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The compressor is a 12/24 volt DC unit from Wancool. The part that is labeled inverter (thanks China) is actually a controller and fault monitor for the system.

The compressor uses 3 DC windings that are brushless making the DC motor run similar to an AC polyphasic motor. You can also think of it as a Pulse Width Modulated system with 3 phases of DC.

Here is an interesting video about using this type of compressor https://youtu.be/yK8X_8NXpcQ

The design of this system makes it very efficient as compared to just spinning a dc motor to run a compressor.
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Old 11-10-2020, 07:37 AM   #25
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I'd go with the 2 way frig for now till they get the bugs worked out of the 12 volt system. No worries when traveling long distances if food will stay cold. I ordered mine with the 2 way and have always had them and love em. Later RJD
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Old 11-10-2020, 07:50 AM   #26
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The compressor is a 12/24 volt DC unit from Wancool. The part that is labeled inverter (thanks China) is actually a controller and fault monitor for the system...
Forums have now come a long way on DC refrigerators. You, of course, are technically correct. These units use a 3 phase, pulsed 12 or 24 volt DC drive, sort of like a 3 winding stepper motor.

Semantically there is really no such thing as "polyphasic DC." DC is DC. The controller can be labelled as an inverter since it makes non DC to feed the windings. These units, as well as the modern variable frequency inverters used in energy star residential reefers are extremely efficient. Only real difference is one uses variable frequency 120 volts at the single winding and the other uses multiple windings with pulsed 12 or 24 volts.

clearly not your father's Frigidaire!
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Old 11-10-2020, 08:14 AM   #27
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Agreed. The comment about polyphasic was only a comparison or analogy. It is definitely not your fathers Frigidaire!

The real weak links in the system are on the solar and battery side. Another 190 watt panel would have advantages on cloudy days and topping up the batteries. Having more/better batteries is also a plus.

The best battery currently available to the public are LiFePo4 but man are they “spendy $$$$” compared to other formulations.

There’s no getting around it. This is the wave of the future; but I’ll still take my Cat Inv2000 with me!
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Old 11-10-2020, 09:57 AM   #28
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If this indeed draws 11 amps -- 140 watts @ 12.6vDC -- it'll drain the typical group 24 battery on the trailer tongue in about 5 hours as these "80 amphour" batteries really only supply about 55 amp hours before their voltage drops below the useful point for things other than dim lights. If it only runs on a 25% cycle it will run less than a day. Two batteries will double the use but it's still dismal compared to LP. Would work on shorepower but seems a needless complication.

140 watts doesn't seem like a lot of cooling either so I'm not sure how well this will work in very hot climates.

We're gonna need a couple of years of data/experience to see how well these work.

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Old 11-10-2020, 10:27 AM   #29
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My 22 cubic foot frigidaire french door reefer consumes an average of about 86 watts or a little more than 7 amps, including inverter losses. I do, however, have it connected to the standard 4 battery house bank.
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Old 11-10-2020, 11:20 AM   #30
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We ended up with a 12VDC frig. It came with the Trailer the "War Department" wanted, so there you go.

The good news when it is powered it works very well. Compared to our last trailer dual type. The new 12 VDC tends to freeze some stuff in the frig part. Looking for the sweet spot on the controls.

Your mileage may vary
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Old 11-10-2020, 01:54 PM   #31
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12 V refrigerator

If you drive very far in a day in warm climate or boondock, go w/ propane/120 V. Depends on how you camp. We boondocks for 4-5 days at a time, no problem w/ a propane rig. As others have said, the 12 V. refrigerators are power hogs, takes a lot of batteries and solar to power them for several days. The dealer push them because the larger size is appealing and they are cheaper.
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Old 11-10-2020, 02:13 PM   #32
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12 Volt Fridge

I have the Everchill 10 Cu Ft fridge. I do not boondock very much and actually have never tested it to see how long it would take to drain battery. However, if I turn the fridge on when I am leaving for the campground it will be cool enough to use even on a 45 minute trip. Fridge was not running when I arrived and ran very little over next day or so. A lot of this depends on how often you are opening fridge or kids are standing with door open. Only needs to be on about #3 setting to be cold enough without freezing items in fridge. Freezer will refreeze bottles of water we use for ice packs in 3 hours. When doing the closest trip (45 minutes) the battery was fully charged according to my battery monitor -not light in camper-. This seems to be an excellent fridge but the boon docking without a generator could be a problem.
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Old 11-10-2020, 09:29 PM   #33
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If I lived in the sunny south west, I would consider a 12v fridge with a couple of 100 solar panels and a couple of the 'new' batteries. However I live in the not so sunny eastern part of Ontario and we often camp with no sun for days at a time. That would require using the generator excessively. No I'll keep my 2 way Norcold fridge. I have had 5 of them over the years and the only failure that I've ever had was one temperature sensor. Still too many problems with residential and 12v only rv fridges yet.
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Old 11-10-2020, 10:10 PM   #34
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Our 22FBS is coming with the 12v fridge and (2) 190W solar panels on the roof. We will be installing 200AH of LiFePO4 batteries as soon as we get her. I plan to run some detailed tests on power consumption and will report back!
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Old 11-11-2020, 09:44 AM   #35
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Ok having both styles in my different RV’s they both have good and bads (if such a word). The dual mode fridges are good for no hook up boondock sites. 1- LP tank will run the fridge for a long time. So if that is your type of camping the a lp fridge is the best bet.
The 12V fridges are not new. The technology has been around for ma y years just the RV appliance manufacturers have picked up on them. I agree stay away from Furrion. Ever chill, GE and a few others are better. The 12v unit does require good batteries and a minimum of 2-deep cycle ones to deliver the power needed on the road to your sites. Ive traveled 6 hours and not had a problem with mine. We do not boondocks much and I plan on upgrading the charge wire to my trailer batteries soon. That would ensure me I’m never without a fridge. My trucks 200 amp alt will not struggle charging the batteries. Solar set ups are a pain but are nice to have. The 12V fridges are bigger and cool down in just 3 hours or so. A propane fridge can see 12-18 hours easily some 24 hours to get cold enough to freeze. They need to be decently level and again are smaller.
I like my 12v fridge but we don’t boondock much....
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Old 11-11-2020, 10:04 AM   #36
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I don’t know if this particular package is in all offerings now but we ordered (yet to be delivered) a 2021 Mini Lite 2205S that will have a 12 volt only refrigerator by Magic Chef, 190 watt solar panel and a 1000 watt inverter. Obviously the inverter doesn’t run the refrigerator, it’s just part of the package.
I have this same set up in the 2608BS I just picked up in Indiana on 10/21/20. We ordered the two 6vdc batteries from the factory and are working our way to our home in FL now. So far we have been plugged in at cg but refer has been working well going down the road.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:29 PM   #37
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Wow some bad info on here

Having lived thru many hurricanes in Florida with no power for weeks a refrigerator will easily stay cold for 24 hours with no power. First off 12 v refrigerator is not new had one in my forest river day dreamer 37 foot fiver 13 years ago. Not one problem ever.
It uses very little amps except when compressor is on. I donít have time to explain how few times a day a compressor comes on. It gets to 37 degrees in less than an hour. Drive all day with the refrigerator off does not hurt your food at all. Sorry all your volts/amps mean nothing to me itís how it operates real world that matters. Headed to bed you guys continue to talk about a unit you Donít have. GEE

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Old 11-12-2020, 08:32 PM   #38
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Wrong

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Ok having both styles in my different RVís they both have good and bads (if such a word). The dual mode fridges are good for no hook up boondock sites. 1- LP tank will run the fridge for a long time. So if that is your type of camping the a lp fridge is the best bet.
The 12V fridges are not new. The technology has been around for ma y years just the RV appliance manufacturers have picked up on them. I agree stay away from Furrion. Ever chill, GE and a few others are better. The 12v unit does require good batteries and a minimum of 2-deep cycle ones to deliver the power needed on the road to your sites. Ive traveled 6 hours and not had a problem with mine. We do not boondocks much and I plan on upgrading the charge wire to my trailer batteries soon. That would ensure me Iím never without a fridge. My trucks 200 amp alt will not struggle charging the batteries. Solar set ups are a pain but are nice to have. The 12V fridges are bigger and cool down in just 3 hours or so. A propane fridge can see 12-18 hours easily some 24 hours to get cold enough to freeze. They need to be decently level and again are smaller.
I like my 12v fridge but we donít boondock much....
12v will cool down in less than an hour - manufacturerís say it will take less than an hour and my real world experience is yes it takes less than an hour.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:42 PM   #39
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Getting ready to start my build on a Rockwood 2205S.

Question on the benefit of an all electric refrigerator, I know the upgrade cost includes the solar panel atop the trailer. Is it worth is and what is the long term service issues vs. the combo electric / propane.
I have a residential fridge, a little different from what you are thinking. It has cost me a $1,000.00 in battery upgrades plus additional money for a solar panel set up.

The point I'm getting at it is pretty cheap to have it run on Propane with little fus, stay with a RV fridge, gas (propane) / Electric (110V)
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:42 PM   #40
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Drain on the batteries

I have measured the power draw from various things on our Arctic Wolf. Less than 300 watts for the full size refrigerator (non-propane). The microwave and the air conditioner draw LOTS more power (couple KW). I could look up the power draw if you want but I know the microwave is about at the limit of what a 2 kW Honda generator will put out.
And BTW, our 120V refrig is the only thing on the 1 kW invertor that came with the trailer. I am looking at a 3kW invertor so I can run the microware as well as some 120VAC outlets when we are on battery power but I am concerned about how to switch from 12 to 120VAC on battery power. Suggestions?

I have 4 6V golf cart batteries which should be good for a day or two without running the generator. I support them with a strap in the front of the 5th wheel because even 2 batteries will pull the bottom out of the 5th wheel Arctic Wolf front compartment (been there).
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