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Old 08-03-2021, 08:05 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jagsare1 View Post
....... My infrared gun has a "scan" feature that lets me move it around and reads the temp changes. I have looking for a wireless thermometer for both boxes. Haven't found one yet.
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Mine scans as well while holding trigger in.
Well I learned something ..... I tested the infrared thermometer I have and it also scans when I hold the trigger in. I didn't realize mine did that. I use mine to check my Vibe's wheel hub temps when we pull into rest stops.
Thank you.

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Old 08-03-2021, 08:26 AM   #22
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If you are scanning with the temp gun shortly after closing the door you wonít see cold air coming out, when you close the door the air inside cools and contracts so any leak would be pulling air into the fridge.

IMO testing with a strip of paper is a more reliable test. Cut a strip of paper about an inch wide. Hold it in the door, close the door and try to pull the paper out. If it pulls easily you have no seal. Open the door, move the paper a couple of inches and repeat. It will only take a few minutes to work your way all the way around the door and you will know for sure if it is sealing properly or not.
This is something interesting. That's the test I use on my woodstove door gasket for good sealing also.
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Old 08-03-2021, 07:27 PM   #23
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Dollar bill test

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If you are scanning with the temp gun shortly after closing the door you wonít see cold air coming out, when you close the door the air inside cools and contracts so any leak would be pulling air into the fridge.

IMO testing with a strip of paper is a more reliable test. Cut a strip of paper about an inch wide. Hold it in the door, close the door and try to pull the paper out. If it pulls easily you have no seal. Open the door, move the paper a couple of inches and repeat. It will only take a few minutes to work your way all the way around the door and you will know for sure if it is sealing properly or not.
We always called this the "Dollar Bill Test" when looking for wind noise leaks on car doors. Guess what our paper strip was!
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Old 08-03-2021, 07:43 PM   #24
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Not an unusual design

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The design is unbelievably poor. No cooling in the fridge, it cools by cold air being routed from the freezer. I bought a new RV to minimize problems and for the warranty. I guess the warranty is no good if the manufacturer refuses to honor it. I would think long and hard before putting anything made by Way Interglobal/Everchill in your RV. Look them up, they make a bunch of cheap RV appliances and this experience shows me they don't intend to honor a warranty on brand new appliances. It appears I have no recourse other than to take it in the rear. Brand new appliance with 0 warranty. Everchill refrigerator freezes up and doesn't cool....makes it easier to find in a Google search.
This is not an unusual design. Every residential refrigerator made uses the same scheme. Here's why:

The refrigerator temperature must be tightly controlled between 34 and 38 F. (Another source says 37-41F.) Any colder and the lettuce wilts; any warmer and the milk sours. But the freezer temperature has a wide range: from +25 F to maybe -25 F and the only thing you would notice is that the ice cream gets harder to dip.

The residential refrigerator has one compressor and one evaporator (cold coil) and one fan to move air across the refrigerator compartment and freezer compartment.

The residential refrigerator has two controls that outwardly look similar (same knobs). The refrigerator control actually controls a thermostat in the refrigerator compartment for tight temperature control. But the freezer control is merely a damper that controls how much of the air flow goes into the freezer compartment and how much goes into the refrigerator compartment.

If you turn the freezer control to a colder setting, the damper directs more cold air to the freezer side and less to the refrigerator side, and consequently the compressor will run a little more often to maintain the same temperature on the refrigerator side with less air flow.

It doesn't surprise me that the same scheme is used in your Everchill. It's been used for 108 years! Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refrigerator

It's not a design issue; your particular unit is failing. I am not a refrigerator expert, but a common cause for icing evaporator coils is insufficient refrigerant. That could be the cause.
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Old 08-03-2021, 09:13 PM   #25
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Unfortunately, I am being given what I believe are unfair choices. The RV has already spent 25% of the warranty period sitting at a repair facility. We now live in it while a house is being built and cannot move into a hotel for 3 more months(the repair facility is telling me to expect at least 3 months). There are options but they appear not to be interested in doing the right thing. Removing the fridge simply to take a picture of the back with no idea of what the expectations are is unfair, especially when I can have it removed, just not at the dealership(not the purchasing dealership).

Everchill is only interested in throwing up a parade of road blocks to do nothing. I have complied with everything they asked for and then they disappeared. Trying to work through the dealer and they are not getting anything done.
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Old 08-16-2021, 06:38 PM   #26
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Frig issues

Really everyone answers with this buyer having to do all the leg work while this unit is under warranty. What is wrong with this picture do we just all roll over and let the mfg get away with not honoring their warranty and customer service obligations or is that just becoming a thing of the past and we will all end up eating the cost of everything we buy that becomes plagued with poor quality and workmanship issues. No accountability for what you provide doesnít head us as a nation in the right direction of trust.
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Old 08-16-2021, 07:32 PM   #27
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Don't know if this might help but we were experiencing problems with our RV fridge freezing up. We took it in for some warranty work and the service tech removed the outside grill where the fridge drain tube is supposed to drip. He got a surprise when about 3' of hose popped out and sprayed him with water! Instead of cutting the drain hose to the proper length, the factory just coiled it up and put the cover on. This meant that the unit could never drain, it just collected in all that hose and that's why we were having so much trouble with frosting up quickly. Now that the tube is the correct length and draining properly, we have not had any more issues with frost in the fridge. Hope your problem is as easy a fix as ours was.
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Old 08-16-2021, 07:34 PM   #28
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No problem with my EverChill

I had to comment on this. My 2019 Shasta Phoenix 25MK has an EverChill 12v fridge. Have had it for 2 years now and never had a problem. I have the fridge set on 2 and the freezer is at medium. Absolutely cold as can be. Guess I'm one of the lucky ones and got a good one. My wife and I both agree that we will never go back to a RV (gas/electric) type again because of how good the EverChill compressor fridge works. Hope you can get yours sorted
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Old 08-16-2021, 10:34 PM   #29
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Can you not just let the RV place have the refrigerator to work on and not the RV? They could run it for a couple of weeks and maybe figure it out.

If you can, I'd just get a cheap apt ref (less than $100, which is probably less than the food ruined) to use until resolution with refrigerator.

Something to ponder.
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Old 08-17-2021, 05:49 AM   #30
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I just went through a similar problem with my refrigerator. The problem turned out to be the circulator fan that blows air over the cooling coils into the bottom section. The fan is located in the back of the freezer above the cooling coil and blows air down and out through the vent in both the freezer and refrigerator sections. You have to remove the back wall panel in the freezer to get to the fan. Mine has 4 screws in the panel covered by round white press in covers that you have to pry off. Remove the screws and then there are clips around the panel that will spring loose with hard pulling on the panel. The fan is easy to change, 2 screws and disconnect the wire connector but it is expensive. The cheapest I found was $100 on line. When searching for the parts on line, either search the part number found on the motor (if it has one) or reach model number of your refrigerator/parts. Your local appliance repair parts store may even have one. The same blower assembly is used by several manufacturers. Another option is to measure the physical dimensions of the refrigerator and go to Home Depot or any appliance store and buy a new refrigerator for about $500. Whirlpool makes an 11 cubic foot model that fit my space perfectly.
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Old 08-17-2021, 06:30 AM   #31
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My experience with Forest River and Everchill has been quite different regarding our Magic Chef-labeled version of the 12-volt refrigerator.
This refrigerator has a defrost cycle that normally works quite well but is not as effective in high humidity-lower temperature settings.
In diagnosing an issue like yours (compressor operates, frost buildup), it’s crucial to know the actual temperatures of each compartment, as opposed to perceptions of temperatures of items in each compartment. I’d recommend buying two cheap refrigerator thermometers, one for each compartment, and setting the temperature control to “3” to reduce the compressor’s run time and hopefully increase the defrost cycle’s effectiveness.
Another bit of information that’s buried in the installation manual is that operating these refrigerators solely on a converter or power supply is not recommended. I interpret that to mean that a 12-volt battery should be used to “filter” the converter. I don’t recall if you said whether or not you have the battery connected and turned on. I just thought I’d add the information.
P.S. These are not “throw-away” or “unserviceable “ refrigerators. The only difference between these and a “residential” unit is that it operates on 12 volts DC instead of 120 volts AC. As with any Danfoss compressor, regardless of operating voltage, there is a way to retrieve trouble codes by connecting an LED light to the compressor’s control board which, unfortunately, requires removal of the fridge to access the board.
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Old 08-17-2021, 07:09 AM   #32
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I took my 2021 23MK in for service last weekend. I have the Everchill too, and told them that the fridge was warming up and the freezer was cold. I was told by the service manager there is a known issue with the pass through to the fridge. They took pictures and documented it and ordered parts. He said parts could be 8 to 10 weeks out or come in next week but they will call to schedule repair when they arrive. Maybe this helps.
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Old 08-17-2021, 10:20 AM   #33
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I have the same fridge, it is labeled Cannon, but is an Everchill. The prior one was a Furrion that failed badly. At first I thought the new one had issues, so I went out and bought a dual sensor thermometer put one in the freezer and one in the cooler. I placed them in the middle near the back wall and then monitored the temps, checking every few hours. I discovered the freezer was getting COLD, with negative temps while the cooler section was ~40. I adjusted the freezer control a bit and watched, and was starting to see the cooler getting down to 34. Then we packed the two with food, and had to adjust it a bit more to maintain temps between 34 and 40. It is set to 3 on the main control. We have no icing issues, but this particular refrigerator does take some fine tuning. The thermometer also has alarms that can be set.

On our first trip my wife over packed the lower shelf and the door popped open during the drive, and set the alarm off. The cooler section was warm but the freezer was still below 32.

If your evaporator is icing up, humid air IS getting in. It can be from the door seal or a crack somewhere in the housing that is allowing warm moist air in. What happens is the sensor in the cooler section is seeing warm temp so drives the compressor harder, creating more ice, eventually you get what happens here, a completely blocked core. It could also be that you aren't dumping enough cold air down from the freezer section, and every time you open the main door you dump moist air in, and that gets drawn into the coils, and since there isn't enough exchange of air, it freezes up.

Try opening the freezer setting to the max, and reducing the setting to 3. Mine shows -1 and 38 on a 90* day. Also if you aren't running AC, that can add to the issue, set the AC to 70-72 and turn the fan on to constant so it keeps the air flowing to help drop humidity. You might also want to get a small dehumidifier to keep the levels down if the AC isn't cutting it. The more moisture you can pull from the air that gets in the fridge, the less chance it will have of icing up, but my thoughts are that you have the control set too cold and not enough flow to the cooler section from the freezer.
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Old 08-17-2021, 11:19 AM   #34
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Godd luck if you need to replace the fridge. My Furrion was junk in my 2020 Greywolf. The damage they did to the door frame of the trailer and the counter corners is amazing. They are now ordering a new door as they can't get it to close properly anymore. I've had almost everything replaced on my new unit. Hope to be able to actually use it someday without worry. Second season of non-use so far and we're up to 24 items replaced! When I finally give up on it, I will go back to at least a 90's camper. My last one was over 20 years old with nary an issue.
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Old 08-17-2021, 11:43 AM   #35
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What did they do for the opening when the Furrion was replaced? The Cannon mounts differently and there are gaps now around the opening with the bracket exposed on top. Unless they replaced it with another Furrion, hope not, those are junk.
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Old 08-17-2021, 12:52 PM   #36
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Really everyone answers with this buyer having to do all the leg work while this unit is under warranty. What is wrong with this picture do we just all roll over and let the mfg get away with not honoring their warranty and customer service obligations or is that just becoming a thing of the past and we will all end up eating the cost of everything we buy that becomes plagued with poor quality and workmanship issues. No accountability for what you provide doesn’t head us as a nation in the right direction of trust.
The dealer has to jump through the hoops with the fridge manufacturer. When you decide to act as the dealer and attempt the warranty replacement yourself, you have to jump through the hoops.

I have spoken to warranty reps at the RV manufacturer and other parts manufacturers. Not saying it's the case here, but it's not uncommon for dealers to say something is broken when it really is an installation issue vs. the appliance actually being broken. These hoops are in-place to prove that out.
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Old 08-18-2021, 02:01 PM   #37
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It is very probable that the refrigerators automatic defrost heater is not working. As long as the evaporator fan is working and that temp control flap to the refrigerator section is open and the doors seal reasonably well, that cooling coil should not be icing up so soon. Especially when no one has opened the fridge doors for 3 days! You can see the wires that feed the defrost heater in the pic of the iced up cooling coil. All residential refrigerators have automatic derost systems in place that defrost the cooling coils every 24 to 48 hours and they may be on an independent timer or part of the computer controls. Good luck!
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Old 08-18-2021, 03:18 PM   #38
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Hey,
I purchased a new Forest River Vibe 2020 42 BH with an Everchill refrigerator in it. So far no issues except the stupid latch wonít stay to keep fires closed. Had to fasten a rope/cord to slip over the latch to keep
It closed. Anyway here is my model number and was wondering if itís the same as yours.
WD-282FWDC. Freezing up can also be low gas or defrost timer but nit sure if these have one like a house model does.
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Old 08-18-2021, 05:00 PM   #39
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Why not use a mobil RV tech? You might need approval from Forest River and they may recommend certain ones but at least you won't have to wait months for the dealer to repair it. And as said in the above post, it could be a problem with the auto defrost system or it could be low on refrigerant although its been in use for about 5 months. Its worth a try. Let us know the results, thanks.
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Old 10-11-2021, 05:26 PM   #40
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Update:
First, they will not pay for a mobile tech. I think it is bull but my only choice is to take to a dealer who has already said they are a minimum of 3 months before they could even look at it. Not feasible with us living in it. FYI, if it sat there for 3 months, that would mean it spent half the warranty period getting warranty repairs.

Couchs RV is useless. Of the 2 issues I need help with(sink falling out of the underside of the cabinet) and the fridge issue, the final fix is supposedly sending me $64 as payment to repair the sink. And the dealer did nothing for months about the fridge. I griped to the manufacturer. Manufacturer and dealer asked me to remove the fridge to take pics of the back of it. Then they asked me to remove it again to get a serial number. I'm sorry, that is nothing more than attempting to hassle me enough to give up. After 6+ months, I finally got an email from the manufacturer apologizing for the runaround. They said they had new customer service people and of course the same excuse everyone uses for everything, covid. She said a fridge was on the way and they only needed to know which side the hinges were on. I gave that info and a fridge did show up and as a final FU slap in the face, the hinges are on the wrong side. I have now been trying for weeks to get a response from the manufacturer and of course, no response. Dealer says nothing they can do, like I said, useless.

Just a tiny effort at warranty would have been nice. I am not sure if the doors on the fridge can be switched but why is that my job? I can already see that I can't get the caps off the top of the hinges without breaking them

The RV industry is junky equipment, sleazy dealers and manufacturers and it is a damn shame that there is no accountability. Ultimately, all I asked for was to fix a couple of things, not near what I could have complained about. Bought a new camper for the warranty, that was a bad decision.
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