Everchill fridge occasionally kicking out/in?

[pumtastic]

We are new camper owners. Last fall we purchased a 2019 Puma. 3 separate times we have gone into the camper to find that the food in our fridge is not cold and the freezer food is thawed out. Each time we have power to the camper still and the light in the fridge is still working as though there is still power there.
There is no fuse blown (there is no red light on either), there are no breakers tripped.
The really confusing part is that the small outdoor kitchen fridge (which only runs when camper is plugged into power source) has done this more than once as well. We have checked this as well and there is power to the outlet that it's plugged into.
Our camper is under warranty but the company is not willing to pay the labor to have the electrical system diagnosed.
We are at a loss. We have a brand new camper that we have used twice that we aren't able to use right now without utilizing coolers for all our food because we cannot keep food in the fridge/freezer and trust that we won't come in to find rotten meat lose more food.
Can ANYONE help??

[bikendan]

When you say the company will not pay labor to diagnose, do you mean Palomino and did Palomino tell you that or the dealer told you that they said that?
From what I have read, the Everchill is a 12v DC only fridge, not a regular 110v/propane RV fridge.
Was your PDI/walkthrough from the dealer adequate, meaning did they thoroughly go over its operation with you?

Personally I would NEVER have a RV with that kind of fridge BUT we dry camp and boondock quite often.

[Iwannacamp]

I can only ask a few questions.

By the brand of the refer I am going to assume 12VDC unit. These I am not familiar with.

The next question is. Was the “time the outdoor fridge did work” was that at a campground?

I suspect a power loss of some sort. Is the RV plugged into an adapter and then to the wall? I then would suspect a bad connection there. Do you have the $5 Walmart adapter? Chunk it and get one at least this good


Or this one or better



If you find a bad connection at the adapter and you can change the outlet, I would change it too. Not the $3 one...get the $10 one. These are onetime buys unless you lose it.

These are based on the idea of the adapter at home. 30/50 amp service at home disregard all this crap.

There have been numerous posts of bad connection at the RV power inlet connection. Can you check that? Cheap check.

Will have to see from there.

[pumtastic]

Originally Posted by bikendan

When you say the company will not pay labor to diagnose, do you mean Palomino and did Palomino tell you that or the dealer told you that they said that?
From what I have read, the Everchill is a 12v DC only fridge, not a regular 110v/propane RV fridge.
Was your PDI/walkthrough from the dealer adequate, meaning did they thoroughly go over its operation with you?

Personally I would NEVER have a RV with that kind of fridge BUT we dry camp and boondock quite often.

The dealer told me Puma/Palomino will not pay to diagnose the fridge/electrical system. They did send us a new outlet for the back of the camper (main power source outlet). They would only cover for 18 minutes of labor to fix this and of course we couldn't find anyone to charge less than an hour and we ended up replacing this on our own. Waiting to see if this fixes the fridge problem.

The fridge is a 12V DC fridge but when towing runs off battery power.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by pumtastic

The dealer told me Puma/Palomino will not pay to diagnose the fridge/electrical system. They did send us a new outlet for the back of the camper (main power source outlet). They would only cover for 18 minutes of labor to fix this and of course we couldn't find anyone to charge less than an hour and we ended up replacing this on our own. Waiting to see if this fixes the fridge problem.

The fridge is a 12V DC fridge but when towing runs off battery power.

Time for you to contact Palomino yourself. NEVER accept what the dealer says what the manufacturer said, unless it's in your favor.
Many dealers don't want to do warranty work because they feel they're aren't paid enough for it.

[pumtastic]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

I can only ask a few questions.

By the brand of the refer I am going to assume 12VDC unit. These I am not familiar with.

The next question is. Was the “time the outdoor fridge did work” was that at a campground?

I suspect a power loss of some sort. Is the RV plugged into an adapter and then to the wall? I then would suspect a bad connection there. Do you have the $5 Walmart adapter? Chunk it and get one at least this good
Attachment 203083

Or this one or better

Attachment 203084

If you find a bad connection at the adapter and you can change the outlet, I would change it too. Not the $3 one...get the $10 one. These are onetime buys unless you lose it.

These are based on the idea of the adapter at home. 30/50 amp service at home disregard all this crap.

There have been numerous posts of bad connection at the RV power inlet connection. Can you check that? Cheap check.

Will have to see from there.

The fridge is a 12V DC that runs off battery when towing.

The times we found it thawed out we were not at campground but had plugged in at storage place. We have plugged in with 30-15 amp pigtail and have it plugged into wall outlet. We were using our power cord that came with camper when we first had the problem and now are using a smaller adapter cord to the extension cord and are still having the issue. Have not noticed the issue when camping and plugged into 30 amp service, however, have only gotten 2 trips in last fall so far.
We have a decent power cord adapter.
Last fall we noticed the 30 amp outlet on the back of the camper was no longer lighting up with the blue light on the flip up cover but we still had power.
We replaced this part today and will check it again tomorrow.
The problem is the fridge will be fine for several days at a time and then all of a sudden not work. But every time we notice the fridge must've gone out, it still seems to have power to it.
Not sure why it would be both fridges either unless it's main power?...

[pumtastic]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Time for you to contact Palomino yourself. NEVER accept what the dealer says what the manufacturer said, unless it's in your favor.
Many dealers don't want to do warranty work because they feel they're aren't paid enough for it.

We live a long ways away from our dealer and got a quote from a local RV repair shop. Our dealer submitted it and then told us Puma wasn't going to cover it. Do you think this is still a case where we should contact them ourselves?

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by pumtastic

We live a long ways away from our dealer and got a quote from a local RV repair shop. Our dealer submitted it and then told us Puma wasn't going to cover it. Do you think this is still a case where we should contact them ourselves?

I bought my first new HTT, from a dealer 2000 miles away.
I contacted FR, who found us numerous local dealers willing to do the warranty work.
We also could have used an independent RV shop or mobile RV tech. We just had to get pre-approval from FR and be willing to be reimbursed.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by pumtastic

The fridge is a 12V DC that runs off battery when towing.

The times we found it thawed out we were not at campground but had plugged in at storage place. We have plugged in with 30-15 amp pigtail and have it plugged into wall outlet. We were using our power cord that came with camper when we first had the problem and now are using a smaller adapter cord to the extension cord and are still having the issue. Have not noticed the issue when camping and plugged into 30 amp service, however, have only gotten 2 trips in last fall so far.
We have a decent power cord adapter.
Last fall we noticed the 30 amp outlet on the back of the camper was no longer lighting up with the blue light on the flip up cover but we still had power.
We replaced this part today and will check it again tomorrow.
The problem is the fridge will be fine for several days at a time and then all of a sudden not work. But every time we notice the fridge must've gone out, it still seems to have power to it.
Not sure why it would be both fridges either unless it's main power?...

When you discover the 12VDC refer isn’t working...how do you get it started again?

There is a possibility the storage unit has a bad outlet. You could splain you are having trouble and see if you buy an outlet would they replace it(cheap check) or just do it on their own.

The LED lights on the connectors are a POC, this will not affect the outlet.. just how purty it is.

Was it doing it before the outlet change out? You know why I ask.

If I am reading correctly...the unit has only quit at storage and you discovered later. For my money I ain’t leaving food in mine for more than a few days...as even in the driveway I don’t monitor it and rotten food smell is almost impossible to get out, but it’s your rig.

I will look for some failures on the 12v box.

I still suspect a bad connection somewhere.

[Old Forester]

I keep one of these in the fridge all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-Digit...y&sr=8-1-fkmr0

When parked at home, it'll hit my LVRM 150-feet away from inside the fridge in the Windjammer and though 1 brick and 4 sheetrock-walls. I'm impressed with it. Plus, it shows trends. When camping, I take the readout and set it on the counter.
I keep a somewhat similar but wired 3 read-out, two sensor unit to give me status of my dedicated upright Refrigerator-only and separate freezer-only and the room temp. It records HI and LO as well.

[pumtastic]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

When you discover the 12VDC refer isn’t working...how do you get it started again?

There is a possibility the storage unit has a bad outlet. You could splain you are having trouble and see if you buy an outlet would they replace it(cheap check) or just do it on their own.

The LED lights on the connectors are a POC, this will not affect the outlet.. just how purty it is.

Was it doing it before the outlet change out? You know why I ask.

If I am reading correctly...the unit has only quit at storage and you discovered later. For my money I ain’t leaving food in mine for more than a few days...as even in the driveway I don’t monitor it and rotten food smell is almost impossible to get out, but it’s your rig.

I will look for some failures on the 12v box.

I still suspect a bad connection somewhere.

When we discover the fridge hasn't been working, the light and everything is still on but we shut off the fridge switch, turn back on and it starts running again in a couple minutes if we leave the door open. The small outdoor fridge is just working again as we have never actually seen any power loss.
We have already had the storage owner replace the outlet and he denies any electrical problems that he's aware of.

What is the 12V box?

[pumtastic]

Originally Posted by Old Forester

I keep one of these in the fridge all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-Digit...y&sr=8-1-fkmr0

When parked at home, it'll hit my LVRM 150-feet away from inside the fridge in the Windjammer and though 1 brick and 4 sheetrock-walls. I'm impressed with it. Plus, it shows trends. When camping, I take the readout and set it on the counter.
I keep a somewhat similar but wired 3 read-out, two sensor unit to give me status of my dedicated upright Refrigerator-only and separate freezer-only and the room temp. It records HI and LO as well.

Thank you for the idea!

[pumtastic]

Originally Posted by bikendan

I bought my first new HTT, from a dealer 2000 miles away.
I contacted FR, who found us numerous local dealers willing to do the warranty work.
We also could have used an independent RV shop or mobile RV tech. We just had to get pre-approval from FR and be willing to be reimbursed.

We were told to get the quote and our dealer would submit to Puma to see how much it would cover so we didn't get stuck paying out of pocket. We did that and basically were told we were gonna have to pay the very large difference. Maybe going to through FR ourselves will be the route we need to go. Thank you!

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by pumtastic

When we discover the fridge hasn't been working, the light and everything is still on but we shut off the fridge switch, turn back on and it starts running again in a couple minutes if we leave the door open. The small outdoor fridge is just working again as we have never actually seen any power loss.
We have already had the storage owner replace the outlet and he denies any electrical problems that he's aware of.

What is the 12V box?

The 12v fridge.

It is possible(unless you looked) the outdoor is 12v as well...they do make them small. This would prolly mean issues with the converter/battery.

https://www.wayinterglobal.com/products/refrigerators/


Sorry I wasn’t more help.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by pumtastic

We were told to get the quote and our dealer would submit to Puma to see how much it would cover so we didn't get stuck paying out of pocket. We did that and basically were told we were gonna have to pay the very large difference. Maybe going to through FR ourselves will be the route we need to go. Thank you!

Buy a 15 amp timer , set it to run 24/7 and set the time if the power goes out the time will be off next time you check it . if you have a power outage maybe the fridge needs to be reset , what are the state of your batteries and converter .

[Teresa CAL]

Just a thought, when you experienced power loss, you were using an extension cord? How long is the cord, and is it a heavy duty cord? I know you can have amp drop if the cord is too long.

[bvanoen1]

I have a one month old 2020 Wildwood with the 12VDC Everchill. Twice in the last 10 days I went to the fridge and noticed warmer temps in both boxes. The t-stat is a series of green lites labeled 1-5.
Both times i observed the green indicator lite on the number I set it at flashing. I didn't think it was a voltage issue as the interior lite was on and the battery indicator was showing full charge. I observed this at night so all other dc functions were working.
Went to the master panel and just pulled the 15 amp fuse and put it back in. Went to the fridge and the temp indicator lite was a steady green. That was a feel good fix but I don't think it eliminated the cause which I have yet to find.
As you know the manuals provided leave alot to be desired. More info is gathered here.

[kurtsont]

We were looking at switching out our fridge and putting in one of these EverChill DC fridge and in doing research, the Wildwood trailer with that fridge I looked at had a 20 amp fuse in it. Also check your wires behind the fuse box. There was a post on here and someone found his wires had loose connections. You could call EverChill, I spoke to a lady there that was super nice and really was helpful with my questions.