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Old 06-04-2024, 08:12 PM   #1
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Everchill WD-282FWDC not cooling

I have a 2.5 year old everchill 12vdc fridge. Randomly went into "standby" (blue light flashing) on and off for the last few years.. Normally I just turn off and on from fridge control panel, lately I've had to remove power for 2-24 hrs to get it to cool. Now no matter how long power is disconnected it will not cool. Freezer fan operating (warm air - let run for 12 hrs no change) coils not frozen ..

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Mike
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Old 06-05-2024, 05:35 AM   #2
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Sounds like a control board issue. If it was randomly switching it self and will no do nothing the answer seems clear.
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Old 06-05-2024, 05:54 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by MGD1961 View Post
Sounds like a control board issue. If it was randomly switching it self and will no do nothing the answer seems clear.
Thanks, ill try and pull out the fridge this weekend and verify if the compressor is coming on or not. Also gives me a chance to pull the p/n off the control board and see if I can find one on line.
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Old 06-05-2024, 06:07 AM   #4
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Two boards on these that I have seen from the past. Behind the buttons and one at the compressor.

Smart move to at least verify if compressor is running. If running and no cool you have a sealed system problem.

Not running, time to troubleshoot but I would lean towards fresh food compartment board.
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Old 06-09-2024, 11:04 AM   #5
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Well, removed fridge from compartment to gain access to back and left alone overnight. Came back next morning and low and behold drudge appears to be cooling.. Ugh.. The only thing i noticed was the ground wire appeared pinched under fridge while installed. I'm going to let it sit for the day and see what happens. Standby for news...
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Old 06-12-2024, 07:14 PM   #6
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Angry

ok, Fridge went back to daily standby and reset requirements. For whatever reason the manual resets worked each time. So, I've decided on a likely cause. I believe this fridge is extra sensitive to park power fluctuations and kicks into standby often (not sure why I had a problem reseting a couple weeks ago). Therefore the only option is to purchase a Hughes 50A autotransformer to prevent the power droops from hitting my appliances...unfortunately it is a $500 buy, so still shopping.
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Old 06-12-2024, 09:49 PM   #7
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Great to hear! Ours completely died. We had all the boards, compressor, thermostat checked and we made sure we had a good 12 V power supply. It's dead, unfortunately. The tech who inspected the unit said it was probably overheated.

Just a quick note to those who have this fridge and especially owners of a Flagstaff 25FKBS. We found the manufacture hot glued the back of the refrigerator to the "L" bracket at the back. We had to use a modified 22" long Philips head screw driver ( Harbor Freight) to remove the screws to slide the unit out.

We were also advised by several of our RV friends, since the fridge is already out, take the time to install a vent/fan along the back panel to circulate air to reduce heat. The 25FKBS has access from an outside storage unit behind the fridge.
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Old 06-13-2024, 12:12 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Mdostie View Post
ok, Fridge went back to daily standby and reset requirements. For whatever reason the manual resets worked each time. So, I've decided on a likely cause. I believe this fridge is extra sensitive to park power fluctuations and kicks into standby often (not sure why I had a problem reseting a couple weeks ago). Therefore the only option is to purchase a Hughes 50A autotransformer to prevent the power droops from hitting my appliances...unfortunately it is a $500 buy, so still shopping.
Sure about this?
Fridge is DC voltage and the "Hughes 50A autotransformer" (autoformer) is an AC voltage device.

Even if the AC voltage is fluctuating I doubt if it is going to effect the DC battery circuit that quickly, unless you are under prolonged fluctuations.

But, having an EMS of some sort is still a good idea, another discussion on that happening right now.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ms-278195.html
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Old 06-24-2024, 09:54 PM   #9
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GolfingDave, good point and I'm not really sure. Not sure how much ac power drop affects inverter and DC output. Worked well for 48 hours, now back to daily issues with fridge..

From what I can tell the fridge will trip/reset [blinking blue light on setting] if the compressor is getting less than 10v.. Not sure what is causing intermittant loss of voltage to compressor control. board.....[assumption not measured]
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Old 06-25-2024, 06:10 AM   #10
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There is another thread going right now with the OP going to change the main board.
Hopefully he posts the P/N's.

You could try dropping down the temperature control panel and disconnecting it. Some refrigerators default to a preset temp if the main control board does not sense one for some odd reason.

I have no idea what will happen though. Could be that board is sending a crazy signal to the main board?

Just something to possibly rule out, possibly. They seldom do fail though on residential refrigerators but did see it happen a couple of times.
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Old 07-05-2024, 10:13 PM   #11
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Sorry all, its been several weeks but I wanted to complete this post in case it helps someone else. so...... i did install the autoformer as mentioned in previous post, but as golfingdave mentioned that deals with ac VS DC. I think i figured out my problem.. for the last few weeks i have been running with NO issues. My RV has 1 a/c on thermostat and 1 a/c with manual control. Normally i don't leave the manual a/c on while I'm at work and i notice the other a/c can not keep up and cool the trailer during the hot sumer days (i usually return with trailer thermostat at high 80's or lowm90's while set to 76). I started leaving the manual a/c on and now the trailer stays at a constant 75 as set by the thermostat. This environment seems to allow the 12vdc fridge to work properly. So here is my conclusion.. the fridge struggles when the external temp is high requiring the fridge to overcome a significant delta T from inside to outside fridge. Hope this helps.. Thanks everyone!
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Old 07-06-2024, 05:19 AM   #12
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Glad it is working.
Maybe the board in back was getting too warm but I would think once cooled down a bit it would start cooling. Blue light flashing is a warning light it got too warm and not just an indicator it is off???

I've measure the compartment my refrigerator sits in on warm days and the top side of the refrigerator since it is the only side I can see through the opening.
Seen it in the low 90's and my refrigerator keeps cold. I even have a vent fan to circulate air bottom to out the top and it really does not seem to keep the ambient air any cooler in the compartment my refrigerator is in. Only turn it on at higher temps. I don't turn my air on usually until the camper is in the high 80's since I do not care going in and out hot to cold. No breeze or high humidity I will turn on lower.

Coincidence it is working when you run your air? Having to leave it off 2-24 hours before cooling as stated in the first post at least to me seems like a different problem than just an ambient air temperature problem.

Let's hope it keeps working though. Seen many problems occur and then never occur again.
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Old 07-06-2024, 08:01 AM   #13
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I sort of started reading installation instructions while shopping for a fridge for the house.

I noted that compressor fridges were not designed to be installed in wood boxes as they are often in rvís.

The instructions call for an air space around the fridge. In the high end there are special fridges designed for installation in cabinets. But, they are triple the price of a normal fridge. My family is in the kitchen remodeling business.

My gas rv fridge has three fans to facilitate the hot air removal.

I would think a fan to help heat removal might be a thought.

We leave one of our fans on full time during hot weather.
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