fridge does not work in gas mode unless hooked to shore power or tow vehicle

[Pbascom]

I have a Rockwood 2604. I'm new to dry camping and have just realized that my fridge is not working when I put it into gas mode when I'm not hooked to shore power nor hooked to my tow vehicle. My assumption was that it would work off the onboard battery but this is not the case. I have operated the fridge on gas frequently but always while hooked to my truck or to shore power. While it is in gas mode during dry camping, it appears that it should be working since the check light does not come on. But on my first dry camp overnight I discovered that the fridge was not operating. My battery is fully charged. Is there some in line fuse in the battery wiring that might be at fault? I have no power at all to run anything if I"m not hooked to the truck. Is this how it is supposed to be? Do I need to purchase a 2nd battery? Help please!

[bubbles]

Do you have a storage disconnect switch? Is it in the disconnect position?

[Pbascom]

yes I have a disconnect switch but it is not in disconnect position.

[Dave_Monica]

Check for a blown 30A fuse on the positive line off the battery...could also be a 30A resettable circuit breaker.

Dave

[dannyabear]

Dead battery, no battery, corroded battery terminals, or main battery wire into camper cut or pinched.

[dalford]

Here is a link to a troubleshooting PDF manual for your unit. Hope this helps...
http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/NewD...atorManual.pdf

[Herk7769]

OK, this one is interesting because it works fine on gas when plugged in. This means all electrical circuits to the fridge, sufficient propane, AND the fridge are fine.

As stated, 12.0 volts (minimum) is required to have enough voltage to open the gas solenoid and run appliances. (about 45% capacity remaining)

A low/dead battery is suspect (IMO) in this case. A battery with low voltage may still work the lights (dim), but have insufficient voltage to open the gas solenoid (which could be slightly corroded and have a bit of drag which would increase the voltage needed to move the slug).

Check the furnace - is there sufficient voltage to run the furnace on the battery? If so - replace the gas solenoid in the fridge.

If not, replace the battery with one of more good quality deep discharge type 12 volt batteries.

[Kaadk]

Ok, so I can interpret your post in a few ways:

1) Only the fridge isn't running but you have 12v for other things, like lights.
2) You have no power, not even lights.

So, which was it? Just the fridge or all 12v is dead. If all, did you have power the night before (i.e. drain the battery?)

[Pbascom]

I have no power at all to the trailer - no lights, nuthin. I've replaced the 30A fuse, pressed the reset button (multiple times) on the circuit breaker that the fuse is connected to and checked all the wiring for as far as I can see. everything looks fine, nothing appears corroded or pinched. The battery has a full charge and will run the lift jack with no problem. would changing the circuit breaker help? any other ideas?

[Pbascom]

forgot to say that I have not had power in the trailer since I started this dry camping adventure 3 days ago. I am assuming that the battery is not the culprit since it will run the lift jack.

[Kaadk]

Ok, might seem like a silly question, but are you sure you've replaced the right 30A? I know on my trailer, there's a 30A near the battery that runs to the tongue jack. Supposedly, there's a separate 30A (or maybe a breaker) that runs back to the converter/distro in the trailer. I'm not sure where it is yet as I haven't had to look for it. I've only ever replaced the tongue jack one.

If yes, then it's time to get out a test probe and start checking for where you lose power. It's most likely going to be somewhere along that line between battery and your distro panel. Or possibly in the panel itself.

[dannyabear]

The 'lift jack' is connected indipendantly of the rest of the camper; Are you positive the battery disconnect switch is in the correct position? Cycle it a couple of times and try the other position.

[Pbascom]

dannyabear - you are the winner. Thank you for being such a great nag and making me go back and check the disconnect switch again. I was positive that it was in the correct position - but it wasn't. Everything works great now. Plus I got an education on where all the fuses and circuit breakers are. Thanks to everyone for all the great help. This is an awesome forum.

[dcheatwood]

Originally Posted by Pbascom

dannyabear - you are the winner. Thank you for being such a great nag and making me go back and check the disconnect switch again. I was positive that it was in the correct position - but it wasn't. Everything works great now. Plus I got an education on where all the fuses and circuit breakers are. Thanks to everyone for all the great help. This is an awesome forum.

Don't you just love this resource? I learn more from following posts like this than from my own questions. Knowledge stored for future use.

[dannyabear]

With old age comes wisdom (and forgetfullness) It's always a good idea to have someone else double check what you KNOW. Don't ask how I know this..........

Glad I could help, I have recieved much on this site myself.

[Herk7769]

That's a hoot; since I just answered your issue this morning on a different thread.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ing-53722.html

Look here:

[hihocarp]

We had a similar episode when we were selling our Motorhome. We were busy cleaning it out and wiping everything down for the new owners. The DW went out later to get her cleaning supplies and non of the 12 volt lights or appliances worked. We're panicking til I started reading the owners manual and found the battery disconnect switch on the dash had been pushed.[ I had never used that switch before]. It was quite a relief to figure that out just before the new buyer showed up!!!

[edt]

A cheap 12Volt test light is invaluable looking for a problem fuzes may look good but a quick test on both sides tells you for sure.