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Old 01-26-2016, 08:27 PM   #1
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Fridge flame out when driving

Hello all. This is my first post. I have a 2015 FR Vibe 268RKS. It has the kitchen in the rear (RKS stand for rear kitchen slide out is what I am told). When we drive the fridge propane flame goes out and when we arrive the check light is on. All works fine when parked. The RV dealer says it is because the exhaust vent on the roof is oriented side to side (rectangular shaped exhaust vent is parallel with the bumber) vs all other kitchens have the vent that is parallel with the length of the RV. They say this orientation allows the wind to be forced down when driving. I temporarily solved it by using duct tape to tape off the roof exhaust vent louver that faces forward and the opening under the exhaust (roof to bottom of vent). This solved the issue. Does anyone know of a devise or something that can be purchased to divert the wind? I am fearful that having one entire side of the vent blocked may cause the CO2 to not properly vent when parked and the wind is coming from the back side. Anyone else have this issue ? RV dealer said I could craft a metal wind block / diverter and mount it in front of vent but I really do not want to drill holes in the roof
I would appreciate any advice
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:38 PM   #2
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Hi, we'll welcome to the forum. I have a 268rks as well. I have towed several times with the fridge running and had no issue. Is this a one time thing or have you towed several times and had the fridge goes out?
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:21 AM   #3
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Has happened multiple times. Have taken it out a half dozen times and occurred on every trip. Stopped after I covered vent with duct tape on the front. But also had the CO2 alarm go off one time while parked so I have been concerned it was related to one side of the exhaust vent blocked. I took it to the RV dealer last year while under warranty and said everything looked and worked good. He said they have had this issue before with the rear kitchens but I have not seen any posts or anything else on line. I thought maybe everyone else had this issue. Good to hear yours is doing well
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:00 AM   #4
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It looks like the design is perhaps somewhat marginal. Not only is the roof vent positioned across the TT which pretty much gets draft forced in, but the reefer intake is located on the rear, which is a known low pressure area when towing. You could try taping one of the openings in the reefer intake grill, at least it is far easier to reach.

You could also fabricate a baffle (just an L shaped piece of metal or plastic and stick it to the roof with dicor, RTV or 3M tape...no need for screws. I would put it maybe 3 inches forward of the roof vent and make it 3 or 4 inches high. The vent does not expect to be force fed with 55 MPH winds so it would have no effect when parked.
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:08 AM   #5
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Good idea to just use Dicor and not screws. I will try that. Thanks for the advice
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisDean2 View Post
Good idea to just use Dicor and not screws. I will try that. Thanks for the advice
The solution posted may work but I believe you should do some testing first. The flame is going away due to either vacuum or pressure. Since we don't know which then some experimenting is needed.

If the problem is pressure, placing "diverter" described by ScottBrownstein in front of the intake/exhaust would create a vacuum between it and the vent. If the flame stays on then you have found the problem. If it still goes out then move the diverter to different positions ranging from the 130 to 210 degree position behind the vent. That will create turbulence at the vent which would result in the vacuum be eliminated. I'm pretty sure one of those solutions should fix the problem.

Either way, you will be moving the diverter maybe several times so I'd recommend holding it in place with some Gorilla tape. Then, when you have definitely solved the problem make the solution permanent by using Dicor or something similar. Gorilla tape is serious stuff. I've never put tape on a trailer roof so someone else will have to advise if this is a good idea or it might damage the roof.
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:48 AM   #7
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Why not attach the baffle to the vent cover and leave the roof alone......
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:59 AM   #8
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If you attach the baffle to the vent cover it will reduce draft when standing still. Might work but not worth the risk.

As far as testing...good idea. I am sure that duct tape will work equally well while you figure out where it is best positioned. I would vote for pressure in front of the vent.

Dicor is a relatively permanent solution and duct tape or something else is a good way to verify things before going permanent.
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:04 AM   #9
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Sounds like a design issue. I would worry that if is drafting air when driving it would also be subject to getting wet in there while driving in a rain storm.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
If you attach the baffle to the vent cover it will reduce draft when standing still. Might work but not worth the risk.

As far as testing...good idea. I am sure that duct tape will work equally well while you figure out where it is best positioned. I would vote for pressure in front of the vent.

Dicor is a relatively permanent solution and duct tape or something else is a good way to verify things before going permanent.
? The baffle, if needed, can be configured to any distance away by how big the material is.....so what difference if it's attached to vent cover or glued to roof..........
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:13 PM   #11
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I have the same configuration as the op, never had 1 problem with flame going out.......I'd be check'n the flame source and alignment...and connections with elec.
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:09 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the inputs. The experimenting approach makes sense. Going on our first trip Of the season to San Antonio in march so will test it then. 11 hour drive


Thanks again for all the advice
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Old 02-18-2016, 12:55 PM   #13
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For what its worth..... I have a front kitchen and fridge and mine runs while towing just suffers from a drastic warmup (gets over 50 in a couple hours) even at the coldest settings. It is weird. If we stop for a half hour or so for lunch, the thing will immediately start to lower the temp. So if we are traveling over a hundred miles, we take the food out of the fridge that could spoil and transport in a cooler..... kinda a PITA but not a trip wrecker.
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:17 PM   #14
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Thanks for the reply. I wish ours would kick back on when we stop. It must try to kick on and eventually quits trying and check light comes on. So when we arrive it is totally shut off. Do you have it on auto or gas only button? We have tried both with same result but was curious on what you use
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:36 PM   #15
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I leave ours on auto. It seems to switch every time I connect or disconnect from shore power.
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Old 02-18-2016, 03:42 PM   #16
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That is what I guessed but due to the forced wind down the exhaust the dealer said it will try to kick on a few times and then eventually stops trying and check light comes on. Works perfect on auto when not towing
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