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Old 07-18-2021, 10:57 AM   #21
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Yup, did that, it’s at the top. Now that I’m home and a cooler environment the fridge temp went below freezing. I’m going to try the fans next
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Old 07-18-2021, 11:05 AM   #22
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The outside vents

The fridge is not on a slide and doesnít have the sunshade either. Iím looking at some of the fan units to maybe keep the mechanical side cooler and maybe even painting the area where the fridge is white to reflect the heat.
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Old 07-18-2021, 11:56 AM   #23
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What Sea Dog said, I put an extra fan in the cooling vent on our 5th wheel, worked well,
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Old 07-18-2021, 12:12 PM   #24
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Thanks everyone, it appears that 37 F is the best temp and that is the info I was looking for!
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Old 07-18-2021, 04:04 PM   #25
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One of the concerns I have is snaking the power cord for the fans down the drain tube. I’m going to look to see if there’s a way to get power from the door light switch.
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Old 07-18-2021, 04:43 PM   #26
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Wiring down the drain tube

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Originally Posted by Highinthemountains View Post
One of the concerns I have is snaking the power cord for the fans down the drain tube. Iím going to look to see if thereís a way to get power from the door light switch.
Snaking the wire down the drain tube is easy. I've done it twice... because I kept the fans when I sold the first RV they were installed in.

Pour a little water down the drain tube for lubrication as you push the wire through. The hard part for me was remembering to NOT wrap the wire around the refrigerator shelf before pushing it through. I had to pull it out and redo it during both installations. I guess that means I've done it 4 times. LOL

Once out, push the light bug keeper-outer back into place. Fold the wire back along the drain tube and put a couple wraps of black tape to secure it.

Proceed with wiring.
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Old 07-18-2021, 04:46 PM   #27
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Some velcro and Reflectix would help. Secure enough Reflectix to the side of RV to cover the chimney area above vent. Velcro in corners so reflective material can be removed and rolled up before moving.

I actually had to do something similar on the side of my house where hot summer sun was heating the wall behind my main electrical panel. Some breakers were tripping about 2 PM when wall got hottest.

Hear shield in place, no more issues.
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Old 07-18-2021, 04:54 PM   #28
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Some velcro and Reflectix would help... .
I've had good luck with a type of Velcro from home Depot. Both sides are clear plastic, and have sort of like fingers that lock together. Not the typical hook and loop fabric. And the sticky side is strong. It came in 1in squares and I think it was made by 3M.

As I proofread this, I wonder if maybe it's not too strong. The reflectix might tear when trying to separate it when you're breaking camp...

Maybe regular Velcro might be better.

Edit, Scotch not 3M. And here's a link to Lowe's.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotch-2-Pa...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 07-18-2021, 06:35 PM   #29
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I've had good luck with a type of Velcro from home Depot. Both sides are clear plastic, and have sort of like fingers that lock together. Not the typical hook and loop fabric. And the sticky side is strong. It came in 1in squares and I think it was made by 3M.

As I proofread this, I wonder if maybe it's not too strong. The reflectix might tear when trying to separate it when you're breaking camp...

Maybe regular Velcro might be better.

Edit, Scotch not 3M. And here's a link to Lowe's.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotch-2-Pa...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Install velcro on side of trailer even with corner edges of Reflectix and then attach the other piece of velcro with some of it extending beyond the edge of the Reflectix. This will leave a tab you can pull on when removing rather than pulling on the Reflectix. If the "sticky" that's exposed is a problem just cover that part with some electrical tape, sticky to sticky.
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Old 07-18-2021, 07:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Install velcro on side of trailer even with corner edges of Reflectix and then attach the other piece of velcro with some of it extending beyond the edge of the Reflectix. This will leave a tab you can pull on when removing rather than pulling on the Reflectix. If the "sticky" that's exposed is a problem just cover that part with some electrical tape, sticky to sticky.
You are a Wise Man, Titan Mike. Thanks!
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Old 07-25-2021, 12:37 AM   #31
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I got back from the trip and set up my trailer on the side of the house. Temperatures have been a lot cooler than when I was in Utah, but the back side of the fridge gets sun almost the whole day. I turned on the fridge to see if I could figure out what was going on with it not keeping temperature.

I was looking inside the fridge today and the thermistor had come off of the fin temperature slider. Looking at the length of it, it will never reach the top if I need maximum cooling. That could have been part of my cooling issues. I tugged on the line to see if any more would come out of the hole and it didnít. I guess Iíll have to open up the outside access to see if I can see any more slack for the thermistor line.

Iím still going to look at the rooftop exhaust to see if thereís a way to mount some 12 volt fans to get some better air flow across the heat exchanger.
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Old 07-25-2021, 07:21 AM   #32
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I have read other posts from people who had cooling problems and in addition to the fans in the backside they added baffles. Put the fans in the lower part of the rear of the fridge then put a baffle at the fins on the backside so all of the airflow is forced to go through the cooling fins and coils. Some even add a thermostat to the fans so they work as needed, a very good idea if boondocking.
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Old 07-25-2021, 07:37 AM   #33
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Find the installation manual. It may be available online of you don't have a copy. In it there is a description of the baffle required to route air flow effectively across the rear and out the exhaust vent. Make sure yours has a baffle installed correctly.

You have to slide the refrigerator out to get to it. If you're going to do that you might as well install fans while you're at it but they may not be necessary all the time.

I believe you can install fans in the top vent without removing the refrigerator but hot spots may remain internally if air flow is not routed effectively.
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Old 07-25-2021, 07:50 AM   #34
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You guys are giving me ideas. I had similar problem at RV park last year in NC where sun beat on fridge vents all day and it was hot. I booked same site this year. I'm going to put some heavy duty suction cup anchors on outer wall and mount a skinny tarp like a sun shade, fastened to ground with stakes and or bungees. Will be at angle, to allow for air flow. Will try to remember to post results end of Sep.
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:09 AM   #35
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... I was looking inside the fridge today and the thermistor had come off of the fin temperature slider. Looking at the length of it, it will never reach the top if I need maximum cooling. That could have been part of my cooling issues. I tugged on the line to see if any more would come out of the hole and it didnít. I guess Iíll have to open up the outside access to see if I can see any more slack for the thermistor line...
I've noticed in our last 2 RVs that there is slack in the thermistor line. It's usually coiled up and zip tied on the back of the fridge, on the lower left above the circuit board area (inside lower outside vent).
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Old 07-25-2021, 10:10 AM   #36
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I'm acting on my 'fridge shade' idea. Ordered this tarp and a couple suction cup anchors. Going to hang top of tarp above fridge vent on outer wall, and extend at angle to ground, tethering bottom grommets to stakes and bungees.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


A 22 dollar solution I will verify if worth it when I get to Carolina.
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Old 07-27-2021, 12:58 PM   #37
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I popped the roof cap for the fridge off and it looks like there is room for either 3-120mm or 3-140mm fans that will sit on top of the screen. Now I’m on the hunt for a decent temperature controller to turn them on and off. They all seem to have their pros and cons
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Old 07-27-2021, 01:30 PM   #38
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I popped the roof cap for the fridge off and it looks like there is room for either 3-120mm or 3-140mm fans that will sit on top of the screen. Now Iím on the hunt for a decent temperature controller to turn them on and off. They all seem to have their pros and cons
I have a simple analog temp controller for my attic exhaust fan at home. Wonder if that would work with DC.
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Old 07-27-2021, 07:45 PM   #39
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A couple of folks here on the forum have recommended this fan from Amazon.. It has a speed control with auto and manual controls so it can be made boondocking friendly. I'm planning on getting one and installing it before our next "hot" trip.
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Old 07-27-2021, 08:10 PM   #40
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I have a simple analog temp controller for my attic exhaust fan at home. Wonder if that would work with DC.
Sure. Those are just temperature activated switches.
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