Fridge not cooling when it’s hot outside

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Clear up would be maximum cold! No wonder it is freezing stuff!

Yes they do make an adjustable thermistor but I suspect you just need to drop it down a bit on the fin.



The adjustable thermistor is called Snip the Tip.



I think Dometic makes an adjustable thermistor as well.

I like the idea of a dial-adjusted thermister, I've seen the snip the clip before online. Anyone do this? Is it worth the 30 bucks? I think the best addition was adding the Fridge/freezer alarm, got it on sale for 20 bucks. https://www.thermoworks.com/RT8100MAT
And of course the little battery operated circulation fan is a must.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by NJKris

I like the idea of a dial-adjusted thermister, I've seen the snip the clip before online. Anyone do this? Is it worth the 30 bucks? I think the best addition was adding the Fridge/freezer alarm, got it on sale for 20 bucks. https://www.thermoworks.com/RT8100MAT
And of course the little battery operated circulation fan is a must.

I used one on an older SOB (some other brand) simply because the thermistor clip broke and I got tired of knocking off the clothespin I was using to hold it on every time I shoved the milk jug in there. The Snip the Clip worked well.

[GLBCamper]

I am having the same issue but not sure it's just the outdoor temps. Day time temps in the high 90's. Precooled for 24 hours on LP - the freezer was 20 degrees and fridge 50. Switched to AC overnight at 60's outside - no change. The thing that concerns me is the lower part of the vent stack is super HOT, even on AC. I'm afraid I'm doing damage or might start a fire it's so hot.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by GLBCamper

I am having the same issue but not sure it's just the outdoor temps. Day time temps in the high 90's. Precooled for 24 hours on LP - the freezer was 20 degrees and fridge 50. Switched to AC overnight at 60's outside - no change. The thing that concerns me is the lower part of the vent stack is super HOT, even on AC. I'm afraid I'm doing damage or might start a fire it's so hot.

It will get quite warm sometimes. So much so you can't hold your hand on it.

Is your upper refrigerator vent open? If on the roof they often get full of leaves. If on the side of the R/V or slide, you often need an auxiliary fan to help with cooling.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Clear up would be maximum cold! No wonder it is freezing stuff!

Yes they do make an adjustable thermistor but I suspect you just need to drop it down a bit on the fin.



The adjustable thermistor is called Snip the Tip.



I think Dometic makes an adjustable thermistor as well.

Duh. Maybe if I read it right I wouldn't have the problem.

[NJKris]

Hopefully didn't lose too much lettuce!

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by GLBCamper

I am having the same issue but not sure it's just the outdoor temps. Day time temps in the high 90's. Precooled for 24 hours on LP - the freezer was 20 degrees and fridge 50. Switched to AC overnight at 60's outside - no change. The thing that concerns me is the lower part of the vent stack is super HOT, even on AC. I'm afraid I'm doing damage or might start a fire it's so hot.

Absorption refrigerators (AC/LPG) run on heat. Yes, to the human hand they will feel hot as anything over 120 degrees or so it too hot to touch. In the overall scheme of things that's barely even warm considering for example boiling water is 212 degrees and that doesn't do any damage to a refrigerator much less start a fire.

Keep bottom and top vents clear with good air circulation. The rest is protected by heater over-temp shutoffs.

More air circulation in the vent stack is key to getting cooler temps so you may need to install one of the several aftermarket Vent Fans, either at the bottom intake grille or at the top exhaust vent. They DO make quite a difference if properly installed. Sometimes the heat "bubble" that forms at the back of the refrigerator can keep cooler air from freely "convecting". Much like the temperature inversions that form at various times of the year in many areas, creating fog/smog layers near the ground.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Duh. Maybe if I read it right I wouldn't have the problem.

I just fixed it and have an excuse. I was reading the label close up through the top of my progressive lenses. Or, more accurately, not able to read it because it was blurry.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Hopefully didn't lose too much lettuce!

Surprisingly, only a zucchini.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

I just fixed it and have an excuse. I was reading the label close up through the top of my progressive lenses. Or, more accurately, not able to read it because it was blurry.

Yea buddy!...

[GLBCamper]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Absorption refrigerators (AC/LPG) run on heat. Yes, to the human hand they will feel hot as anything over 120 degrees or so it too hot to touch. In the overall scheme of things that's barely even warm considering for example boiling water is 212 degrees and that doesn't do any damage to a refrigerator much less start a fire.

Keep bottom and top vents clear with good air circulation. The rest is protected by heater over-temp shutoffs.

More air circulation in the vent stack is key to getting cooler temps so you may need to install one of the several aftermarket Vent Fans, either at the bottom intake grille or at the top exhaust vent. They DO make quite a difference if properly installed. Sometimes the heat "bubble" that forms at the back of the refrigerator can keep cooler air from freely "convecting". Much like the temperature inversions that form at various times of the year in many areas, creating fog/smog layers near the ground.

Thank you for the good info. It's encouraging that perhaps my 6 month old refrigerator isn't toast!