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Old 07-28-2021, 09:07 PM   #1
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Fridge won’t work on propane

We have always traveled with propane on. For the last couple of weeks, it’s no longer kicking from electric to propane…any ideas?
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Old 07-28-2021, 09:18 PM   #2
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We have always traveled with propane on. For the last couple of weeks, it’s no longer kicking from electric to propane…any ideas?
Posting make and model number of the fridge, always helps in finding a solution.
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Old 07-28-2021, 09:50 PM   #3
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Posting make and model number of the fridge, always helps in finding a solution.
It’s a 2014 Dometic DM2852LBFX. Can’t find a model name
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Old 07-28-2021, 10:25 PM   #4
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Your control board should have a 3amp and a 5amp fuse. Check to see if they are still good. Next check to see if the spark igniter is even trying to light the propane. You will probably need a second person to flip the fridge from 120v to LP while you stand outside with the lower cover off to tell if it's sparking but you should hear it.

Try those and report back....

Or could be similar to what I found in mine. Fridge worked on LP and it appeared this was a chip from where they drilled the hole for the LP hose to feed up into the back of the fridge. The original sealant was around the hose, so I know it was a factory "gift". But like I said, odd thing was the fridge worked. I took the hose off to replace the underbelly.

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Old 07-29-2021, 02:13 PM   #5
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Another thing to try

Our fridge occasionally does this. One possible thing to try. If you have a propane stove - lite one burner for a few seconds. Then try the fridge again. Something about temperature and pressure of the propane - lighting the stove seems to 'prime' the propane, or relieve the pressure, or whatever - but it usually works for us. This only seems to happen to us when its really hot outside.
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Old 07-29-2021, 02:29 PM   #6
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Make sure you didn't have mud wasps or any other bugs make nests in the orifice where the propane meets the igniter.
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Old 07-30-2021, 11:27 AM   #7
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I just went through this same issue - see my post “duel mode refrigerator not working on gas”.
My issue was the tube the orfice shoots gas into was plugged with mud from mud wasps. Two pics attached… plugged tube and second pic shows all the crap that I dumped out of it.
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Old 07-31-2021, 11:39 AM   #8
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I just went through this same issue - see my post “duel mode refrigerator not working on gas”.
My issue was the tube the orfice shoots gas into was plugged with mud from mud wasps. Two pics attached… plugged tube and second pic shows all the crap that I dumped out of it.

Some screens on the openings of the Reefer cover outside the RV will stop those pesky mud daubers and others.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/12340496965...cAAOSwoC9dwEsI
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Old 08-01-2021, 04:23 PM   #9
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Could not any fuses blown. None are marked for fridge…��. We are stationary now, for a week+ So I’m hoping he will take it apart and see if something is blocking. Not a ‘handy’ guy. He tends to find someone to do it for him. Maybe I should give it a go…
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Old 08-01-2021, 04:39 PM   #10
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dward51
Could not any fuses blown. None are marked for fridge…��. We are stationary now, for a week+ So I’m hoping he will take it apart and see if something is blocking. Not a ‘handy’ guy. He tends to find someone to do it for him. Maybe I should give it a go…

The fuses I'm talking about are on the control board that is mounted to the back of the fridge. It sounds like you are looking at the fuse block at the converter (wrong location). He will need to take the lower vent cover off the bottom of the fridge (outside the trailer).

Also did you determine if the spark igniter is sparking? If someone stands at the lower vent cover for the fridge (outside the trailer), and someone else turns the fridge to LP inside the trailer, the person outside should be able to hear the click, click, click of the spark igniter trying to light the flame. If so, is the flame lighting and staying on? You should hear the slight woosh sound, but if you take that lower fridge vent cover off, you should be able to see the blue flame on the right side going into the chimney stack.
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Old 08-01-2021, 04:41 PM   #11
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The fuses referenced earlier are on the control board that is typically mounted on the back of the refrigerator. You can typically find it inside the lower, outside cover. Sometimes there is a plastic cover over the board too.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:04 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by dward51 View Post
The fuses I'm talking about are on the control board that is mounted to the back of the fridge. It sounds like you are looking at the fuse block at the converter (wrong location). He will need to take the lower vent cover off the bottom of the fridge (outside the trailer).

Also did you determine if the spark igniter is sparking? If someone stands at the lower vent cover for the fridge (outside the trailer), and someone else turns the fridge to LP inside the trailer, the person outside should be able to hear the click, click, click of the spark igniter trying to light the flame. If so, is the flame lighting and staying on? You should hear the slight woosh sound, but if you take that lower fridge vent cover off, you should be able to see the blue flame on the right side going into the chimney stack.

After removing the lower fridge cover outside the camper when he looks inside he will see a cover, usually black and usually at the bottom to the left, but some are green. He will have to pull that cover off. There is a 12 Volt fuse on that board beneath the cover that could be blown. The fuse is a glass tube with shiny metal ends and the fuse thread running from one end to the other inside.

There is 120 volts connected under that cover too so best to have the power shut off at the main breaker for the camper when looking at this "For Safety Sake"!

Im not sharpshooting here just trying to provide more details for "Mr Not Too Handy".
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:14 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
After removing the lower fridge cover outside the camper when he looks inside he will see a cover, usually black, but some are green. He will have to pull that cover off. There is a 12 Volt fuse on that board beneath the cover that could be blown.


There is 120 volts connected under that cover too so best to have the power shut off at the main breaker for the camper when looking at this "For Safety Sake"!



Im not sharpshooting here just trying to provide more details for "Mr Not Too Handy".


And I appreciate your suggestions! I’ll keep you updated. Many thanks!
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Old 08-01-2021, 07:56 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
After removing the lower fridge cover outside the camper when he looks inside he will see a cover, usually black and usually at the bottom to the left, but some are green. He will have to pull that cover off. There is a 12 Volt fuse on that board beneath the cover that could be blown. The fuse is a glass tube with shiny metal ends and the fuse thread running from one end to the other inside.

There is 120 volts connected under that cover too so best to have the power shut off at the main breaker for the camper when looking at this "For Safety Sake"!

Im not sharpshooting here just trying to provide more details for "Mr Not Too Handy".
In all the R/Vs I've owned in recent years, the12v fuse on the control board was a regular automotive type blade fuse. The round glass fuse was for the 120v side of the refrigerator.

Just saying if they happen to see something other than what you described.
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