Furnace G SF-30 Good News and Tips

[SAMe]

SAMe here again with good news on my 2007 Suburban Sf-30furnace.

I moved into this 25' used Puma slideout middle of June, and finally got furnace gasket and saw that no sealant is required. Then tried new gas regulator --cheapest starting point--- and that did not fix issue.

Then ordered incorrect Dinosaur board off Amazon, returned it, called Dinosaur directly they sent me the correct circuit board --one with two spades for power and fan-- and presto furnace lights and heats, at least for the short 5 minutes I tried it. Fire, I am man, I make fire.

The correct identiy circuit board on the box is....12V DC Furnace Only, FAN 50 plus pins Serial FFP122169...... and the man at Dinosaur clearly stated, that if my circuit board is any color other than green --like Dinosaur borads are--- then I dont need to use the wires that are part of the kit that comes with this board.

My old board was dull white and my Sf-30 sail is hidden away inside --behind plastic of furnace so it is not as easily accessable as it looked in all of the videos I watched.

No, I did not mess with sail witch at all cause all videos showed a other system so all other info made clear to me, sail switch was not my issue, and new circuit board proves that assessment is correct.

So $30 regulator { not needed } and the correct $90. circuit board and away the heat is flowing. I have ducting so I still have to install some kind of sealant fiberglass around the opening in floor and furnace casing.

There was a piece of thin fiber board under my cookstove, on top of the furnace casing, but I lost contact with previous owners and I dont know if that board is supposed to be there to protect the cook stove above from furnace or vice versa?

Makes me nervous, the idea of a piece of wood fiber board sitting on top or any where near the top of the furnace metal casing/shroud. So my furnace is kind that comes in and out from inside the RV, from under stove.

The record cold for my area is 17 below and even tho I have two dedicated space heater circuits running from the electric pole --so as not to use RV electric system for heating-- I still wanted a gas in case electric went out for any extender periods of time.

So here is another tip. The new board has spades for power and fan --there marked on old board and new--- but there location on Dino board is differrent.

And the yes there are the 6 or 8 vertical pins, but they are not made for my specific, SF-30. The four wires in slide-socket slide on to new board, just the same way as the do on the old board, from the side, laterally.

Also the wires in my socket became loose so when I slid socket onto new board, it was loose. So then I noticed I had to push the wires a little bit more into the plastic socket, then when I slid it on, it felt like a tighter fit should.

Sorry I dont have a video of my tips, cause I couldnt find any video that showed clearly all of the many detailed steps involved and indentifying exactly the same SF-30 furnace I have.

I called Dinosaur people twice or three times and they answered my questions, regarding the boards installment.

Have placed blue board styrofoam over shower ceiling so less heat goes out that skylight and same for fan skylight over toliet, except I used 4" soft foam there.

The thin aluminum plastic bubble wrap over windows { duct taped } and now thicker blankets over all those windows, except a small area where my wifi repeater is getting internet from my house.


I put some metal and plastic skirting around RV, tho some gaps here or there.


On thing left maybe to figure out, is if the gas part of my hot water heater stops working, I can replace the metal fuse thingie with a spare I purchased a few months back, however,

if worse comes to worse, I will probably have to pull out cookstove so that, I can access hot water heater from the side where 110 AC chord is plugged into it. I already now there is no ac making outside to that fused area where AC wires come out of RV.

I can reach chord plug in with hand but cant really tell much of what is going on inside that area when I try to twist it left or right, jus to make sure it is plugged in properly. Oh well, pray gas part just keeps working find through the winter.

I'm out here in RV, to protect my wife in the house, from CoV2, should I get infected at work. She has asthma and other issues that CoV2 might kill her in the first day or so and I would not like me to be the cause of that.

Thanks again to those who have helped me over the last 10 months with my questions and issues. The only other issue is that my water is from the above ground spicket, ---that I have insulated much and put three layers of plastic over-- so, I will half to trickle water anytime it gets to lower 20's or less.

I'm a happy RV'er for the most part! Living here in my backyard, under all these limbs and leaves that fall on my roof

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by SAMe

There was a piece of thin fiber board under my cookstove, on top of the furnace casing, but I lost contact with previous owners and I dont know if that board is supposed to be there to protect the cook stove above from furnace or vice versa?

Can you post a picture of what you're referring to?

[SAMe]

Originally Posted by ependydad

Can you post a picture of what you're referring to?

Sure, I have done pictures and emailed them on net or forums before. Let me get my camera out. It is very thin square board that was just laying in there on top of furnace.


Attachment 244138

[SAMe]

SAMe here again with latest. I put metal front on furnace sunder the stove accessible from inside--- and let the outer wood panel off, this way less heat will build under the stove, and with that knowledge I decided to not place the thin luon-like plywood back there postioned somehow above the furnace.


So I tried lighting, and it did not light on first three ignitor fire's and then it locked-out,


2nd three ignitor clicks furnace lit for few 2nds then lock went off,


third ignitor clicks and it furnace fired and stayed lit...whew!...was worried there for a 2nd that was going to have a new issue. So for now, it is workng and blowing air through ducting, as it is designed to do. YAY!


This means I now have a fall-back heating systems should electric go at electric pole. I just now presuming the battery is what is running the blower motor and electronics,



cause how else would and RV'er get heat if their out in woods with no electricity?


H,mm, and even if that blower motor runs off battery, it cant last that long. H,mm.


It appears to me, that I may have to get another battery in line, or just be prepared to go by some kind of propane heater that runs directly off a propane tank, but that doesnt sound very safe!


Looks like I have yet another thing to figure out and all because of the CoV2 pandemic. Arrgh!!!!