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Old 10-16-2013, 06:38 PM   #1
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Furnace problem

The furnace in our 2012 Sabre 34RLQS is not heating properly. The fan will kick on then you can hear the burner kick in. The burner will only run for about a minute then kick off for 2 or 3 minutes, the fan continues to run. This continues all night and never warms the trailer. I can not find any restrictions in the vents, any ideas???
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:50 PM   #2
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If you have a bug screen on the outside exhaust of the furnace, try removing it.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:51 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by okietom View Post
The furnace in our 2012 Sabre 34RLQS is not heating properly. The fan will kick on then you can hear the burner kick in. The burner will only run for about a minute then kick off for 2 or 3 minutes, the fan continues to run. This continues all night and never warms the trailer. I can not find any restrictions in the vents, any ideas???
Kinda sounds like a thermostat problem. But I'm not any expert
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:52 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by okietom View Post
The furnace in our 2012 Sabre 34RLQS is not heating properly. The fan will kick on then you can hear the burner kick in. The burner will only run for about a minute then kick off for 2 or 3 minutes, the fan continues to run. This continues all night and never warms the trailer. I can not find any restrictions in the vents, any ideas???
Sounds like the high limit sensor or control board to me. Definitely not normal. Needs diagnosis and fixing
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:53 PM   #5
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Wrong answer, sorry.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:54 PM   #6
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Try setting the fan to "auto" instead of hi or low.
That would not explain the burner going on or off, but maybe the fan running...
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:58 PM   #7
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That would not explain the burner going on or off, but maybe the fan running...

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Old 10-16-2013, 07:53 PM   #8
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Interestingly, had the same problem with another RV'er. His limit switch failed which acted exactly like yours. Mine completely quit. I replaced mine with his defective one, but at least it fired and ran for about 5 minutes in the 4f temp.

Camping World wanted $23 for the limit switch, an RV center wanted $16. I purchased the first one I came too, installed it easily in about 5 minutes, worked ever since.

While this might not be your problem, always nice to have anyway just in case-- MHO.

Relative to temp out of the ducts, Camping world ran hot at 202f, but the RV center I got the upgraded one from was within limits. (Had a meter which tests temp, and is accurate). Nevertheless, better on than off in that weather if one keeps an eye on things.

Good luck
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:03 PM   #9
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Where is the limit switch located ????
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:11 PM   #10
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Could be your internal blower fan that is slipping on the motor shaft. Do you get any air blowing at heating vents when furnace is running? See diagram in attached manual.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Suburban Furnace SF-42.pdf (945.6 KB, 39 views)
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:15 AM   #11
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Plenty of air at vents, just not hot air....
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:30 AM   #12
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furnace problems

on our Flagstaff (2014 831) we had several symptoms on its first use.
would run 30 seconds and trip-never really heat, would run 2-3 minutes and trip on high temperature, very little air flow. would run 10 minutes and trip.
all parts were replaced one at a time and none solved it--high temp switch (in front), sail switch, control board, thermostat.
the motor still gets hot and possibly trips its thermals, can be reset by thermostat but never lets the unit deliver heat the right way.
Oh and the wiring wasn't right.
so its at the dealer now and they said the whole unit is being replaced because of its unreliable condition. and that was after getting the wiring right.
the dealer is trying to do the right thing.
hope this helps---its not that hard if you had all the parts to swap. I learned a lot watching the repair guy in Laramie recently. he said the most common failure is the high temp limit switch, and the next is the air flow sail switch.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:11 AM   #13
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Those I've seen are just inside the front panel which needed to be removed via 4 hex screws.
They were flush-mounted switches, round, with attachment flaps also screwed to the heater face.
Two wires on the inside press on, and you'll find the number on the inside as well, although the number may be on the front in your case. As I said, it's an easy change and doesn't cost much.
Here's a link showing many switches.
propane heater limit switch - Bing Images
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:12 AM   #14
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propane heater limit switch - Bing Images
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