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Old 08-21-2020, 01:58 PM   #1
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HELP! Furrion 12v fridge dead?

We have a brand new 2021 16bhs with a 12v Furrion fridge that we picked up on 7/3/2020- Everything worked great for a week &half camping trip we took but when we came home we pulled the quick battery disconnect to make sure we didn’t drain the battery while storing. Then the night before we had planned to leave for another camping trip I went and turned the battery disconnect back on and the refrigerator is not working- no lights, no cooling, nothing. The battery converter that is loud when refrigerator runs tried to start for about 2 seconds and stopper (it does this each time when turning disconnect)- never any lights in the fridge. We pulled the fridge out and the glass fuse in the back is reading conductivity. The battery reads 13.5 and all other 12v things are working (lights, radio, hot water heater). Of course I’m being told it’s a 6 month wait to get it into the shop. I’d like to try and fix ourselves so we can enjoy our new camper more than once this year. Any help or tips on what to try would be appreciated!
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Old 08-22-2020, 10:09 AM   #2
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Since you're trying to get this done before winter, you may want to contact the manufacturer of each of the components (battery, converter, fridge, etc.). Most can provide you with some basic troubleshooting to find a switch that needs to be flipped or a fuse that needs checking.
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Old 08-22-2020, 12:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwolfpup View Post
We have a brand new 2021 16bhs with a 12v Furrion fridge that we picked up on 7/3/2020- Everything worked great for a week &half camping trip we took but when we came home we pulled the quick battery disconnect to make sure we didn’t drain the battery while storing. Then the night before we had planned to leave for another camping trip I went and turned the battery disconnect back on and the refrigerator is not working- no lights, no cooling, nothing. The battery converter that is loud when refrigerator runs tried to start for about 2 seconds and stopper (it does this each time when turning disconnect)- never any lights in the fridge. We pulled the fridge out and the glass fuse in the back is reading conductivity. The battery reads 13.5 and all other 12v things are working (lights, radio, hot water heater). Of course I’m being told it’s a 6 month wait to get it into the shop. I’d like to try and fix ourselves so we can enjoy our new camper more than once this year. Any help or tips on what to try would be appreciated!
Yes call the refrigerator manufacturer and get them to walk you thru the trouble shooting. You’ll have to google for the number but that’s the best thing to do.
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:49 PM   #4
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Same issue

I am having the same issue with mine. Did you find out anything from Furrion?
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Old 09-19-2020, 05:52 PM   #5
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Is this your refrigerator?
Have you checked the 2 fuses or just 1?

You sure your batteries are good? Under load, lights on what is the voltage?
What is the temp set at? Is it on ?
Sorry I need to find out more information from you to help.
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:33 AM   #6
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I checked all the breakers and fuses in the breaker box. We are plugged up to 120v the lights and usb charging ports all work. We have the temp down on 3rd from last. We also have the juice pack and the voltage is 12.1 under load unpluged from 120v.
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Old 09-20-2020, 07:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwolfpup View Post
We have a brand new 2021 16bhs with a 12v Furrion fridge that we picked up on 7/3/2020- Everything worked great for a week &half camping trip we took but when we came home we pulled the quick battery disconnect to make sure we didn’t drain the battery while storing. Then the night before we had planned to leave for another camping trip I went and turned the battery disconnect back on and the refrigerator is not working- no lights, no cooling, nothing. The battery converter that is loud when refrigerator runs tried to start for about 2 seconds and stopper (it does this each time when turning disconnect)- never any lights in the fridge. We pulled the fridge out and the glass fuse in the back is reading conductivity. The battery reads 13.5 and all other 12v things are working (lights, radio, hot water heater). Of course I’m being told it’s a 6 month wait to get it into the shop. I’d like to try and fix ourselves so we can enjoy our new camper more than once this year. Any help or tips on what to try would be appreciated!

Sorry just to be basic. When you pulled the glass fuse out, behind the frig. you did check to see that there was 12V on one side of the fuse holder??

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Old 09-20-2020, 07:19 AM   #8
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The voltage of 12.1 is less than 50% of the battery. Plugged in indicates the converter is shot!

More info!

When you plug the 120 in the converter will begin charging.

About 14 volts is bulk. The fan that cools the converter will run until the battery is partially charged. Likely less than an hour.

If the battery is indeed 12.1 volts then the converter will lower its voltage to about 13.7 or so. Will likely not go to bulk mode. They are all a little different.

It then will take 24 hours or more to fully charge the battery. When the converter voltage drops to 13.1 that is pretty much fully charged.

Reading the voltmeter over about 12.6 is surface charge. Will settle down after an hour or so of minimal use.

At this point I would try the fridge. They do not like low voltage. First thing the light should work. Tells you it is getting 12 volts.

This eliminates the converter and battery as the issue thus, it is the fridge. Yes it should run on the converter. You need to narrow down the issue. Then it is the old, is the fridge getting power. Fuses all over the place and a voltmeter. Having an alligator clip to attach the voltmeter to a ground lets you use two hands.

Batteries are the weak link of modern rv’s. The dealer likely put a little marine battery on your unit. Worst case it will not last 5 hours.

An installed battery monitor is a good plan.
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Old 09-24-2020, 11:49 AM   #9
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Solution found.

Thanks for everyone's assistance. It turns out there is an inline fuse in the back for the refrigerator. (Because why use the fuse panel just below it). I was able to remove the refrigerator and buy a new fuse to replace it. Everything has been working fine for two days now.

Extra Info for those who have a similar issue.

1. Open the refrigerator door, there are 2 square head screws remove those to remove the vent cover.
2. Behind the vent cover are 4 square head screws mounting the refrigerator, remove those.
3. Open the freezer door there are 4 square head screws mounting the refrigerator, remove those.
4. You and a friend slide the unit out. Place a towel, blanket on the floor and lift the unit while removing it. There are screw heads on the bottom and you don't want to scratch your floor.
5. Remove the panel in the bottom back of the unit.
6. ON the laft hand side, hard to see is a black inline fuse. Check the fuse for connectivity and replace if necessary.

I used these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-28-2020, 07:45 PM   #10
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The Furrion 12v 10 cu.ft. fridge in our 2021 16FQ died after 2 weekends of use, the dealer we purchased it from went through the troubleshooting and are being told that it needs to be replaced. They tell me that they've replaced others on warranty with the Everchill 12v. Seems like there might be a more widespread issue with these, but I'm assuming the dealer checked the fuse... ��
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Old 05-17-2021, 05:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsivley View Post
Thanks for everyone's assistance. It turns out there is an inline fuse in the back for the refrigerator. (Because why use the fuse panel just below it). I was able to remove the refrigerator and buy a new fuse to replace it. Everything has been working fine for two days now.

Extra Info for those who have a similar issue.

1. Open the refrigerator door, there are 2 square head screws remove those to remove the vent cover.
2. Behind the vent cover are 4 square head screws mounting the refrigerator, remove those.
3. Open the freezer door there are 4 square head screws mounting the refrigerator, remove those.
4. You and a friend slide the unit out. Place a towel, blanket on the floor and lift the unit while removing it. There are screw heads on the bottom and you don't want to scratch your floor.
5. Remove the panel in the bottom back of the unit.
6. ON the laft hand side, hard to see is a black inline fuse. Check the fuse for connectivity and replace if necessary.

I used these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I realize your post is from last year but I was wondering how your Furrion 12V fridge is doing? Is it still working?
I just bought a 2021 (used) Wolf Pup 16FQ with the 10 cu ft Furrion 12V fridge Needsless to say I'm scared to death that it's gonna break down. I haven't been camping in it yet. Newbie.
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Old 05-17-2021, 05:34 PM   #12
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I got the one that failed from our Wolf pup back from the dealer after they replaced it on warranty as well as another that they pulled out of another trailer and both are still running great 8 months later after the fuse replacement. I couldn't find the right fuse locally so I just cut in an automotive fuse holder.
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Old 06-16-2021, 06:00 AM   #13
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This is my 2nd year camping with the 2020 26dbh and we have already used it once this season and everything ran smoothly. Closed he up for a few weeks and opened it back up last night to get ready for this weekend. Turned on the battery and loaded up the fridge and freezer. Came back out a few hour later and the fridge was not running.

I have the 12v Furrion. The light is on, the fuse in the fuse panel is not blown. You can hear it try to kick on, but then it does not. Plenty of battery power. Any ideas before I call Furrion?
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Old 06-16-2021, 07:03 AM   #14
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I have the 12v Furrion. The light is on, the fuse in the fuse panel is not blown. You can hear it try to kick on, but then it does not. Plenty of battery power. Any ideas before I call Furrion?
This sounds like the same issue that we had. There is an inline fuse in the red wire that runs from the power terminal to the compressor that isn't shown on the wiring diagram and dealers don't seem to know about it. It's accessed at the back of the fridge behind a cover plate so you'll probably have to pull the fridge out of the cabinet to get to it. I couldn't find a replacement fuse so I cut in an automotive fuse holder and it's been running 24/7 for about a year.
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Old 06-16-2021, 07:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggriffiths View Post
This sounds like the same issue that we had. There is an inline fuse in the red wire that runs from the power terminal to the compressor that isn't shown on the wiring diagram and dealers don't seem to know about it. It's accessed at the back of the fridge behind a cover plate so you'll probably have to pull the fridge out of the cabinet to get to it. I couldn't find a replacement fuse so I cut in an automotive fuse holder and it's been running 24/7 for about a year.

Ugh, that's the last thing I wanna do today!! How did you "cut in an automotive fuse"? If it's not too involved then I'll try it myself. I will search for thr inline fuse first tho. Thanks
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Old 06-16-2021, 09:25 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by GreyWolf26dbh_2020 View Post
Ugh, that's the last thing I wanna do today!! How did you "cut in an automotive fuse"? If it's not too involved then I'll try it myself. I will search for thr inline fuse first tho. Thanks
I just cut the wire and used a fuse holder and two crimped connectors from the local auto parts store. It's pretty straightforward and saves buying a fridge if you're out of warranty.
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Old 07-06-2021, 04:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsivley View Post
Thanks for everyone's assistance. It turns out there is an inline fuse in the back for the refrigerator. (Because why use the fuse panel just below it). I was able to remove the refrigerator and buy a new fuse to replace it. Everything has been working fine for two days now.

Extra Info for those who have a similar issue.

1. Open the refrigerator door, there are 2 square head screws remove those to remove the vent cover.
2. Behind the vent cover are 4 square head screws mounting the refrigerator, remove those.
3. Open the freezer door there are 4 square head screws mounting the refrigerator, remove those.
4. You and a friend slide the unit out. Place a towel, blanket on the floor and lift the unit while removing it. There are screw heads on the bottom and you don't want to scratch your floor.
5. Remove the panel in the bottom back of the unit.
6. ON the laft hand side, hard to see is a black inline fuse. Check the fuse for connectivity and replace if necessary.

I used these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know your post was from a while ago, but thank you, thank you, thank you for posting the step by step fridge removal. My furrion fridge is dead! A new fridge is back ordered. We head out in 2 days!
The dealer replaced a fuse but we know it will fail again. Now I know how to replace it myself if it goes during our trip.
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Old 07-07-2021, 10:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Kathy Fenlon View Post
I know your post was from a while ago, but thank you, thank you, thank you for posting the step by step fridge removal. My furrion fridge is dead! A new fridge is back ordered. We head out in 2 days!
The dealer replaced a fuse but we know it will fail again. Now I know how to replace it myself if it goes during our trip.
We took delivery on ours about two months ago, while at home before our first trip it quit, what the dealer service folks found was loose connections in inside the fridge. Remove the outside panel, behind it you will see a service panel at the base of the fridge (backside), remove it and you will find the connections that caused our problem. Many were loose, the worse was the ground wire which fell out when they checked it. Once tightened it was worked very well since. That includes a 4 night dry camp trip, we are on our third trip now.
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Old 07-08-2021, 05:47 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Rolland View Post
We took delivery on ours about two months ago, while at home before our first trip it quit, what the dealer service folks found was loose connections in inside the fridge. Remove the outside panel, behind it you will see a service panel at the base of the fridge (backside), remove it and you will find the connections that caused our problem. Many were loose, the worse was the ground wire which fell out when they checked it. Once tightened it was worked very well since. That includes a 4 night dry camp trip, we are on our third trip now.
Thank you for your reply. This is helpful . . . just in case.

At this point, we finally picked up the trailer; one week late and the day BEFORE we are due to leave! There is a new fuse (somewhere) in the fridge. The dealer thinks the fridge will survive this 2 week trip. We'll see!

I spoke with Grand Design. A new replacement fridge has arrived and should ship to the dealer this week. So we are packing two dorm size fridges. I downloaded the schematic and fridge removal instructions posted in this thread and we'll cross our fingers. I think being in the Whites will help my attitude around this whole mess.

Much appreciated!
~ Kathy
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Old 07-08-2021, 11:28 AM   #20
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Kathy, there are two fuses in ours, one 20 amp spade fuse in the distribution panel in the coach, a second one only accessible by removing the service panel. It’s the old style glass automotive fuse.

When we did our first trip with the fridge dead we packed an ice chest for many things, then had block ice in a Rubbermaid tote inside the fridge. Just like my first camper over 30 years ago that was just an ice box
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