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Old 12-31-2018, 09:55 PM   #41
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I had same problem with mine. It was a lose connection that was the cause.
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:34 PM   #42
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Not sure what the weather is like where you are. Is it possible the propane line has frozen from water in it? This can happen in propane lines. And it could be between the stove and furnace in the underbelly. If the fan keeps running and won’t stop it’s usually the sail switch or the unit not getting propane, After a re-start do you hear the normal click and buzz?
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:57 AM   #43
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Heater problems

Check outside at the heater vent when fan is running, should get air flow. If little or none then possibly the vent is obstructed (mudd dobbers love this spot) If fan runs and stops that means the circuit board has timed out and not seen any air flow or LP pressure. Check sail switch for free operation should be able to see it from inside heater. Lastly the lp solenoid could be faulted and need replacement. Most of the latter would require some access issues. If your not real handy then A repair shop is the answer.
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Old 01-01-2019, 09:29 AM   #44
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I'm inclined to think helpers are wasting their time here. This member has not been back on the site at all in more than a week.
Last Activity: 12-23-2018 11:14 PM


Of course, someone will likely say "all this advice may help another traveler" and that might be true.


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Old 01-01-2019, 10:39 AM   #45
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Heater not working

It sounds like your problem could be the Sail Switch . When you turn on heater
you should hear a click that the burner is coming on . Right now just your blower is coming on .

While it’s possible to do it yourself— I recommend a Service person because on a Suburban it’s rather difficult
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Old 01-01-2019, 10:42 AM   #46
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Fuse

From experience, same thing happened to us! We called a mobile serví guy, who came and just pulled out the tray where the furnace exhaust is outside, and replaced the fuse! He advised to carry an extra fuse since these tend to fail. He also explained to get a good one, cause the factory always puts the cheapest one. Hope it helps!
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:45 AM   #47
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I'm inclined to think helpers are wasting their time here. This member has not been back on the site at all in more than a week.
Last Activity: 12-23-2018 11:14 PM


Of course, someone will likely say "all this advice may help another traveler" and that might be true.
Hello Mr.Dan,

He has not been back because he seems to have fixed his problem (a week ago) and that is posted on post #33.

I found it odd that friends on this forum/thread would still be giving suggests on how to 'fix' his problem, when his 'problem' has been 'fixed'.

(a low voltage battery level may start the fan, but will not allow the furnace to ignite even if the camper convertor is working on High output)
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:53 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
Hello Mr.Dan,

He has not been back because he seems to have fixed his problem (a week ago) and that is posted on post #33.

I found it odd that friends on this forum/thread would still be giving suggests on how to 'fix' his problem, when his 'problem' has been 'fixed'.

(a low voltage battery level may start the fan, but will not allow the furnace to ignite even if the camper convertor is working on High output)
It appears to me, many infrequent visitors don't read the entire thread(s) and so, don't realize the problem(s) solved. Often time they will post to threads a year or more old. I think the subject line catches their interest and they comment. (especially this one with Help-Urgent)

Part of forum life I suppose.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:57 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
Hello Mr.Dan,

He has not been back because he seems to have fixed his problem (a week ago) and that is posted on post #33.

I found it odd that friends on this forum/thread would still be giving suggests on how to 'fix' his problem, when his 'problem' has been 'fixed'.

(a low voltage battery level may start the fan, but will not allow the furnace to ignite even if the camper convertor is working on High output)
I suspect the original title may cause a reflexive reply that doesn't include reviewing the many others.
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:06 AM   #50
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Desperate in PA. We are getting ready to go south for the winter in 5 days, just after Christmas. We had a problem with the furnace not working, so we took it to a shop where the circuit board was replaced. It was working fine and I had the heat set at 42 F. We went out this morning to start the finish packing and the furnace does not deliver heat. I turned the thermostat up to 90 and the fan will come on, but after about 30 sec it stops and no heat is delivered. Sounds to me like the burner is not igniting.

I am starting here to find a solution, guess I could try to get a circuit board from Amazon or someplace. I will be using my friend Google now to find some assistance.

BTW the Furnace is a Suburban SF 30 FQ.

Any ideas??

PS I tried to call the service place, but they are closed on Sat and I actually doubt they will reopen until after the new year. Left a message.
I had the exxact same problem. I tookk my circuit board back in and it checked out good. I replaced the igniter and have had no problems since. It cost me $26 for the igniter.
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:48 PM   #51
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I suspect the original title may cause a reflexive reply that doesn't include reviewing the many others.

Also, this thread was highlighted in the "Forest River Forums Newsletter Issue 67" which was emailed out on 12/31. I've noticed that when a thread becomes the "highlight" of the week, a bunch of people will hop on and offer advice without checking to see that the problem's been solved.
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:57 PM   #52
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Hello Mr.Dan,

He has not been back because he seems to have fixed his problem (a week ago) and that is posted on post #33.

I found it odd that friends on this forum/thread would still be giving suggests on how to 'fix' his problem, when his 'problem' has been 'fixed'.

(a low voltage battery level may start the fan, but will not allow the furnace to ignite even if the camper convertor is working on High output)
Les, you and 5picker are correct. As a site teamer, I read dozens and dozens of posts everyday and can't always keep them straight in my pea-brain. Sometimes my process when I see repeated solutions (as I did here), I check to see if the OP is still engaged. I did that here without reading through the thread to find the OPs "closure" post. I'll TRY to remember that!


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Old 01-07-2019, 03:35 PM   #53
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Les, you and 5picker are correct. As a site teamer, I read dozens and dozens of posts everyday and can't always keep them straight in my pea-brain. Sometimes my process when I see repeated solutions (as I did here), I check to see if the OP is still engaged. I did that here without reading through the thread to find the OPs "closure" post. I'll TRY to remember that!


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Any thought to just adding, “(resolved)” to the thread title?
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:41 PM   #54
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Any thought to just adding, “(resolved)” to the thread title?
Yes, I've thought of that AND I actually added [SOLVED] to a couple of titles BUT I'd rather not set that precedent in case I/we miss some 'resolutions'. And you KNOW we've seen some cases where an OP will post "Yay... I got my Sunseeker tail light to stop flashing by opening my propane tank valve very slllloooooooowwwlllly!" Resolved/not resolved??
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:42 PM   #55
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Yes, I've thought of that AND I actually added [SOLVED] to a couple of titles BUT I'd rather not set that precedent in case I/we miss some 'resolutions'. And you KNOW we've seen some cases where an OP will post "Yay... I got my Sunseeker tail light to stop flashing by opening my propane tank valve very slllloooooooowwwlllly!" Resolved/not resolved??

LOL

That’s because opening the propane bleeds out the blinker fluid thru the ignition key hole.
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:43 PM   #56
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LOL

That’s because opening the propane bleeds out the blinker fluid thru the ignition key hole.
I should make this post a STICKY!
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Old 01-07-2019, 03:55 PM   #57
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Quote:
Mr Dan Posts:
Yes, I've thought of that AND I actually added [SOLVED] to a couple of titles BUT I'd rather not set that precedent in case I/we miss some 'resolutions'. And you KNOW we've seen some cases where an OP will post "Yay... I got my Sunseeker tail light to stop flashing by opening my propane tank valve very slllloooooooowwwlllly!" Resolved/not resolved??
Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
LOL

That’s because opening the propane bleeds out the blinker fluid thru the ignition key hole.
All of this liquid, if possible should be drained into a jar with a lid for later use when the nut behind the wheel gets really dry. It takes a long time and is hard to get from the sDealer as this is NOT a stock shelf item.


Quote:
What's the meaning of "Nut behind the wheel?




Best Answer: It means the Driver of the car. He is referred to as the most dangerous part of the car.
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Old 01-16-2019, 02:46 PM   #58
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The furnace is trying to light but the furnace doesn’t light, I can smell propane. Any thoughts
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Old 01-16-2019, 02:49 PM   #59
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It’s a friends travel trailer. We changed the regulator. The range works fine. Also the hot water heater works on LP. We have tried banging on the furnace.
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:15 PM   #60
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Guess what I fixed the furnace and have no idea what I did to get the furnace working. I did beat on top of the furnace and turned the range top on, all three burners.
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