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Old 06-07-2015, 01:08 PM   #1
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How often to replace anode rod in WATER HEATER

I have a 20 gal residential water heater in a CC COTTAGE TT over a year old, how often should I replace anode we are full time ?
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Old 06-07-2015, 02:05 PM   #2
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When the anode rod is approx 3/4 worn. You will have to remove the anode rod to inspect.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:14 PM   #3
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When your water takes on a sulfur smell it's time to change the anode rod.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:20 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Rdeemat View Post
When your water takes on a sulfur smell it's time to change the anode rod.
Respectively that's not true.


This can happen if the hot water tank has not been flushed for some time.There is a bacteria that thrives in warm, dark, humid places and gives off a rotten egg smell (actually it's sulfur). It's not uncommon when a rig sits a while without being used.
To flush the tank, shut off the city water or water pump. On the bottom of the water heater will be a fairly large drain plug, some water heaters will have a anode rod that pulls out. You can then open the relief valve to speed things up. After it is drained you can turn the water supply back on and flush it out.. After this you can then shut off the hot water heater.

Dilute 1/4 cup of household bleach for each 15 gallons of tank capacity in to a gallon of water.

Add the chlorine/water solution to the water tank. (Never pour straight bleach into the RV fresh water tank. )

One faucet at a time, let the chlorinated water run through them for one or two minutes. You should be able to smell the chlorine. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)

Top off the RV fresh water tank and let stand for at least three hours over night is better.

Completely drain the system by flushing the faucets for several minutes each. Open the fresh water tank drain valve to speed up emptying the tank.and Open the hot water tank drain plug and drain until it is empty.

Close all valves and faucets and drain plugs.

Fill water tank with fresh water.

Flush each faucet for several minutes each repeating until the tank is again empty. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)

Fill the tank again. The water should now be safe to drink but if the chlorine odor is too strong you can repeat the fresh water flush.

Also One of the chemicals they put in propane is Mercaptan,this is done to let you know of a possible propane leak, the smell is of rotten eggs. Normally you will have an LP detector and it will pick up on a propane leak and will sounds an alarm and cut the flow of the propane. The best way to find a LP leak is with a LP sniffer or by spraying down the lines with leak check, it will bubble if you have any leaks..

I would first drain the hot water heater and follow the directions above until the smell is gone you should at least be able to notice the difference.

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Old 06-22-2015, 12:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBS View Post
Respectively that's not true.


This can happen if the hot water tank has not been flushed for some time.There is a bacteria that thrives in warm, dark, humid places and gives off a rotten egg smell (actually it's sulfur). It's not uncommon when a rig sits a while without being used.
To flush the tank, shut off the city water or water pump. On the bottom of the water heater will be a fairly large drain plug, some water heaters will have a anode rod that pulls out. You can then open the relief valve to speed things up. After it is drained you can turn the water supply back on and flush it out.. After this you can then shut off the hot water heater.

Dilute 1/4 cup of household bleach for each 15 gallons of tank capacity in to a gallon of water.

Add the chlorine/water solution to the water tank. (Never pour straight bleach into the RV fresh water tank. )

One faucet at a time, let the chlorinated water run through them for one or two minutes. You should be able to smell the chlorine. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)

Top off the RV fresh water tank and let stand for at least three hours over night is better.

Completely drain the system by flushing the faucets for several minutes each. Open the fresh water tank drain valve to speed up emptying the tank.and Open the hot water tank drain plug and drain until it is empty.

Close all valves and faucets and drain plugs.

Fill water tank with fresh water.

Flush each faucet for several minutes each repeating until the tank is again empty. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)

Fill the tank again. The water should now be safe to drink but if the chlorine odor is too strong you can repeat the fresh water flush.

Also One of the chemicals they put in propane is Mercaptan,this is done to let you know of a possible propane leak, the smell is of rotten eggs. Normally you will have an LP detector and it will pick up on a propane leak and will sounds an alarm and cut the flow of the propane. The best way to find a LP leak is with a LP sniffer or by spraying down the lines with leak check, it will bubble if you have any leaks..

I would first drain the hot water heater and follow the directions above until the smell is gone you should at least be able to notice the difference.

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One thing not mentioned is make sure water heater is cooled down before you start the draining process .
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBS View Post
Respectively that's not true.


This can happen if the hot water tank has not been flushed for some time.There is a bacteria that thrives in warm, dark, humid places and gives off a rotten egg smell (actually it's sulfur). It's not uncommon when a rig sits a while without being used.
To flush the tank, shut off the city water or water pump. On the bottom of the water heater will be a fairly large drain plug, some water heaters will have a anode rod that pulls out. You can then open the relief valve to speed things up. After it is drained you can turn the water supply back on and flush it out.. After this you can then shut off the hot water heater.

Dilute 1/4 cup of household bleach for each 15 gallons of tank capacity in to a gallon of water.

Add the chlorine/water solution to the water tank. (Never pour straight bleach into the RV fresh water tank. )

One faucet at a time, let the chlorinated water run through them for one or two minutes. You should be able to smell the chlorine. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)

Top off the RV fresh water tank and let stand for at least three hours over night is better.

Completely drain the system by flushing the faucets for several minutes each. Open the fresh water tank drain valve to speed up emptying the tank.and Open the hot water tank drain plug and drain until it is empty.

Close all valves and faucets and drain plugs.

Fill water tank with fresh water.

Flush each faucet for several minutes each repeating until the tank is again empty. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)

Fill the tank again. The water should now be safe to drink but if the chlorine odor is too strong you can repeat the fresh water flush.

Also One of the chemicals they put in propane is Mercaptan,this is done to let you know of a possible propane leak, the smell is of rotten eggs. Normally you will have an LP detector and it will pick up on a propane leak and will sounds an alarm and cut the flow of the propane. The best way to find a LP leak is with a LP sniffer or by spraying down the lines with leak check, it will bubble if you have any leaks..

I would first drain the hot water heater and follow the directions above until the smell is gone you should at least be able to notice the difference.

TURBS
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X2 what TURBS said - the only minor revision I would make is:
[this works best if 2 people do this step]
Use a large funnel and pour the bleach water in your drinking water hose.
(DW and I work the hose until completely filled, hook it to the spigot and let the hose set @ a hour)
Pour any leftover bleach water into your fresh water tank and continue with TURBS excellent instructions.
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Old 06-22-2015, 02:12 PM   #7
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not so sure about a "residential" rv water heater. but most residential water heaters have very large anodes made for the life of the waterheater. standard rv waterheaters need an annual inspection. I would consult the mfg for service interval on this one.
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Old 06-22-2015, 02:13 PM   #8
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Actually go by this.

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Old 06-22-2015, 03:13 PM   #9
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if its a residential model and the anode goes in the top, then you may not even be able to remove it without removing the waterheater. the residentials Ive seen go in the top and run almost the entire height of the unit. so, if its installed in the top, id give it a couple years anyway...
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Old 06-22-2015, 03:17 PM   #10
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if its a residential model and the anode goes in the top, then you may not even be able to remove it without removing the waterheater. the residentials Ive seen go in the top and run almost the entire height of the unit. so, if its installed in the top, id give it a couple years anyway...
Correct.

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Old 06-22-2015, 04:57 PM   #11
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May be, I'm no expert, all I know is I've lived in my RV a little over 4 yrs. full time and about every 1-1/2 yrs. my water starts smelling like sulfur. I pull the anode and it's pretty well eaten up. I keep a stock of them and replace it and no more sulfur smell.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:13 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rdeemat View Post
May be, I'm no expert, all I know is I've lived in my RV a little over 4 yrs. full time and about every 1-1/2 yrs. my water starts smelling like sulfur. I pull the anode and it's pretty well eaten up. I keep a stock of them and replace it and no more sulfur smell.
Probably because you drained the tank.
That alone may have taken away the sulfur smell.
But, if you do in fact have a sulfur smell it in fact is bacteria and a anode rod will not kill it.

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Old 06-22-2015, 05:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdeemat View Post
May be, I'm no expert, all I know is I've lived in my RV a little over 4 yrs. full time and about every 1-1/2 yrs. my water starts smelling like sulfur. I pull the anode and it's pretty well eaten up. I keep a stock of them and replace it and no more sulfur smell.
Sulpher smell is caused by BACTERIA; not the anode.

You need to sanitize your system to get rid of that smell.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:17 PM   #14
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Have no experience with the problem, but this :
Hot water heater anodes and rust protection
says that bacteria smell CAN be helped with a new rod. (assuming the old one is bad)
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:42 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Rdeemat View Post
May be, I'm no expert, all I know is I've lived in my RV a little over 4 yrs. full time and about every 1-1/2 yrs. my water starts smelling like sulfur. I pull the anode and it's pretty well eaten up. I keep a stock of them and replace it and no more sulfur smell.
If you haven't already, try using an aluminum rod. Water with high sulfur content will react with the magnesium one and cause that smell. I have never had to replace a aluminum one. Just keep cleaning them up an reinstalling.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:05 PM   #16
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Have no experience with the problem, but this :
Hot water heater anodes and rust protection
says that bacteria smell CAN be helped with a new rod. (assuming the old one is bad)
Solving rotten-egg odor in water heaters

I did not see where it said that...
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:41 PM   #17
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If you haven't already, try using an aluminum rod. Water with high sulfur content will react with the magnesium one and cause that smell. I have never had to replace a aluminum one. Just keep cleaning them up an reinstalling.

the suburban WH uses an aluminum rod for the glass lined steel tank. the Attwood uses a magnesium because the tank is aluminum. you need a rod that is more reactive than the parent tank, hence the mag. an aluminum rod in a aluminum tank does no good. the tank is still the anode...
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:53 PM   #18
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the suburban WH uses and aluminum rod for the glass lined steel tank. the Attwood uses a magnesium because the tank is aluminum. you need a rod that is more reactive than the parent tank, hence the mag. an aluminum rod in a aluminum tank does no good. the tank is still the anode...
Didn't think atwood had a rod @ all?

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Old 07-02-2015, 02:59 PM   #19
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Didn't think atwood had a rod @ all?

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they dont...aftermarket add on...and a good one
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Old 07-02-2015, 03:02 PM   #20
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I see.

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