I made a BIG mistake, need help/eletrical

[emm-dee]

You said the slide and awning were inoperable. Since both are 12 volt then either a fuse (not breaker) is bad or the voltage is too low. Low volts would result from a bad converter not charging the battery.

[Mr. Dan]

Please read other posts especially post #20.

[clr]

I would concentrate my repair efforts on the converter and any 120v item that may have been on or directly connected. AC fans and such that were left on in the unit may be damaged. I would first correct the converter and try each device and make a list of the failed item.
As already stated many times I would not worry about the blame, I would choose to keep the friend who was trying to help you.

[CedarCreekWoody]

I recommend you take advice only from wmtire on this issue. He has worked through many of these. While others may offer accurate advice it can get very confusing on where you are at in the process. As he suggested start with the converter.

[NavyLCDR]

As a preventive measure it's a good idea to plug some type of circuit tester into any receptacle before plugging the trailer in. I have a surge protector with indicator lights that show a properly wired receptacle. I would expect my surge protector lights would have shown open neutral in this case. Just a hint to prevent future occurrences of electrical problems.

[Chuckwag]

By way of update, early troubleshooting indicates some good news, along with more valuable learning.
First, the converter is definitely fried, so a new combination power panel/converter will be installed. While testing components, we learned that while the microwave gave its life, the new TV was spared because I had connected a surge protector to that circuit. We also confirmed the dead battery suggested here, and will replace that as well. Fortunately, all the 12-volt components came right back to life when a jump box was connected to the battery for testing purposes. The only open question remaining is the dual power refrigerator, which we can’t fully test until we have constant 12-volt and 120v. Although the igniter does click when the 12-volt power was applied, we’re not yet sure if the 120v power was connected or protected by the 12v side. Ideas there are appreciated!

[Chuck_S]

The 120vAC heater in the refrigerator is probably fried just like the converter was and the microwave would have been as it was On when 240AC power was applied. And there are some circuit boards that run the refrigerator as well which are accessible from the outdoor vent doors. Hopefully you can at least get it to run on propane and 12vDC -- no reason it won't run on the jump box that I can think of, it draws only tiny amounts of DC as the energy comes from the heat of propane. Will run for weeks on a single cylinder of LP.

-- Chuck

[Chuckwag]

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

The 120vAC heater in the refrigerator is probably fried just like the converter was and the microwave would have been as it was On when 240AC power was applied. And there are some circuit boards that run the refrigerator as well which are accessible from the outdoor vent doors. Hopefully you can at least get it to run on propane and 12vDC -- no reason it won't run on the jump box that I can think of, it draws only tiny amounts of DC as the energy comes from the heat of propane. Will run for weeks on a single cylinder of LP.

-- Chuck

Thanks for this feedback Chuck. My plan is to check and see if the fridge will cool on electric power once the power panel/converter/battery are installed. We’ll test that overnight, as I recall the unit took a lot longer to cool down on 120v even before my snafu. Whether it works or not on 120v, I’ll check it on 12v/propane next. Prior to this mess, that was my preferred method of operation anyway. Thanks

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Chuckwag

By way of update, early troubleshooting indicates some good news, along with more valuable learning.
First, the converter is definitely fried, so a new combination power panel/converter will be installed. While testing components, we learned that while the microwave gave its life, the new TV was spared because I had connected a surge protector to that circuit. We also confirmed the dead battery suggested here, and will replace that as well. Fortunately, all the 12-volt components came right back to life when a jump box was connected to the battery for testing purposes. The only open question remaining is the dual power refrigerator, which we can’t fully test until we have constant 12-volt and 120v. Although the igniter does click when the 12-volt power was applied, we’re not yet sure if the 120v power was connected or protected by the 12v side. Ideas there are appreciated!

I have been involved in some situations where the microwave had an internal fuse that may can be replaced and it brought back to life. However I do not recommend you play with this part as there is stuff inside the microwave components that can still shock you.

The fridge is usually just a control board that needs replacing. Maybe you can post the make/model of the fridge and we can see where it is.

Can you just recharge the battery? The 240 volt overload didn't harm it, but letting it run down for an extended period will.

Also the converter alone can be replaced a lot easier than the whole distribution panel/converter. Unless you are just wanting to do such, there really is no need unless you are upgrading.

You are getting there.

[Chuck_S]

Absorption refrigerators like this one (and mine) are Propane refrigerators with a secondary 120vAC heater for convenience. They work by boiling ammonia and the LP unit provides more BTUs and will cool better and faster. The AUTO setting is very nice as even though 120vAC is less effective it's normally good enough and convenient.

-- Chuck

[Chuckwag]

wmtire,
Thanks for your reply. The only reason I’m replacing the whole shebang, is that I found the exact combo unit that’s in the TT now, and I have found over the years that changing things up usually begets other changes to match stuff up. I’m only smart enough to match up pieces, but not rewrite the book! LOL ��
Here’s what I found from Best Power that’s an exact match:

https://www.bestconverter.com/WFCO-8...l#.Ypz-_xYpDDs

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Chuckwag

wmtire,
Thanks for your reply. The only reason I’m replacing the whole shebang, is that I found the exact combo unit that’s in the TT now, and I have found over the years that changing things up usually begets other changes to match stuff up. I’m only smart enough to match up pieces, but not rewrite the book! LOL ��
Here’s what I found from Best Power that’s an exact match:

https://www.bestconverter.com/WFCO-8...l#.Ypz-_xYpDDs

I understand, but let me explain further. To replace the whole distribution panel (instead of just the converter or converter MBA (main board assembly)), you have to disconnect every circuit breaker wiring, and take the 120 volt AC circuit breakers out of the old panel and put in the new panel, then reconnect all. You also have to disconnect every 12 volt DC wiring going to a fuse (and there are several).

Do you currently have the WFCO 8955 distribution panel in your RV? if so, the MBA can be replaced. Let me find a video. It may take a bit.

[Chuckwag]

That would be very helpful! No need doing the extra work for sure!

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Chuckwag

That would be very helpful! No need doing the extra work for sure!

See if this one can give you an idea on just replacing the converter/MBA. You will need the proper one for your current setup. The one he links to in his video may not be the one you need. WFCO makes several different ones and sizes. The video will give you an idea on much simpler it is to just replace the MBA, which is all you need really.

https://youtu.be/OjN75eDG8RM

[Chuck_S]

Despite "everyone" calling the power distribution panel "the converter" the actual converter is a black box inside that panel only requiring 4 or 5 wires to be switched from the old to new unit. I recall it's accessible by removing the front panel lid modesty covers and maybe not require removing the entire panel from the wall.

-- Chuck

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Chuckwag

wmtire,
Thanks for your reply. The only reason I’m replacing the whole shebang, is that I found the exact combo unit that’s in the TT now, and I have found over the years that changing things up usually begets other changes to match stuff up. I’m only smart enough to match up pieces, but not rewrite the book! LOL ��
Here’s what I found from Best Power that’s an exact match:

https://www.bestconverter.com/WFCO-8...l#.Ypz-_xYpDDs

If you currently have the WFCO-8955 distribution panel currently inside your RV, this would be the replacement MBA from bestconverter.

https://www.bestconverter.com/WFCO-8...l#.Yp4iqLhodkg

[Chuckwag]

Thanks! I’m having my daughter reach out to Best Power, and she’ll track it down.

[TNSolera]

I made same mistake but it only fried the appliances that i had connected ON position.. so got microwave, TV all else was ok.. know another and they fried the microwave , TV, and AC.. all else was OK. We had fridge on 12vt. 12 vt should be ok

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by rsdata

.

I have no idea why you would need a wiring diagram... the over-voltage most likely stopped at the converter and the microwave, which is the only 110VAC thing plugged in and turned on as soon as you plug the trailer into an outlet...

And possibly the residential refrigerator (if present) and the water heater element (fortunately only costs $10-11).

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by TNSolera

I made same mistake but it only fried the appliances that i had connected ON position.. so got microwave, TV all else was ok.. know another and they fried the microwave , TV, and AC.. all else was OK. We had fridge on 12vt. 12 vt should be ok

You didn't have to replace your converter when this happened?