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06-09-2022, 08:54 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 4,865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dan
I got “I would think…” but do you have anything more concrete?
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So you really think there is an RV manufacturer out there who says - "Hey guys, just build this thing" and doesn't have the drawings behind it to support it? That would be ludicrous to think so. Ah heck, guys, just run whatever gauge wire you can find wherever it needs to go, as long as it is done by Tuesday, we at Forest River don't care what wire you use or where you run it.
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06-09-2022, 09:07 PM
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#62
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyLCDR
So you really think there is an RV manufacturer out there who says - "Hey guys, just build this thing" and doesn't have the drawings behind it to support it? That would be ludicrous to think so. Ah heck, guys, just run whatever gauge wire you can find wherever it needs to go, as long as it is done by Tuesday, we at Forest River don't care what wire you use or where you run it.
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So you don’t have anything more concrete.
Your scenario would be more dramatic if you had the foreman tell workers to wear blindfolds and boxing gloves. A worker could be told/trained to run power to a water heater with 12awg wire without being provided a schematic showing exactly what route to take from point A to point B.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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06-09-2022, 09:07 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyLCDR
I would think that every RV our there has design specifications including all of the electrical schematics and mechanical drawings there are supposed to be (but not always) built to. It's a matter of whether or not the manufacturer wishes to provide those drawings to the publec.
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I tired to get the exact build sheet for my trailer with all model and serial numbers listed for what was installed in the trailer. I was told they don't have one. It depends on what they have on the line at the time.
As far as the wiring, they run wires from point A to point B. No rhyme or reason to the way they do it. I have fond 12v wiring change colors midstream.
__________________
Western PA
2015 Silverado Z71
2018 toy hauler
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06-09-2022, 09:24 PM
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#64
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckwag
Good evening folks, Chuckwag here. We've owned and loved our 2013 Flagstaff/VLite 21WRS for a few years now, and have used it with great success less than a dozen times. Each trip we learned something new about the 21WRS, and generally have had zero problems with anything. We love it!
Here's where I goofed up, and I'm afraid in a big way! A few weeks ago I asked my electrician friend to run a 220-volt/30-amp plug from our home close to the camper, so I wouldn't have to run a long shore power cord across my carport.
Those of you who understand electronics better than I do should already understand my problem. When my electrician friend and I hooked up the power, he heard something that made him immediately unplug the camper!
That's when he discovered my mistake, and realized the camper is 120-volt/30-amp, rather than 220-volt!! His only mistake was assuming I knew ANYTHING about TT electronics.
So far, we've confirmed that several things no longer work from the brief high voltage connection. Among them are the microwave, (it's totally fried), refrigerator, the slide, the awning, etc. Surprisingly, the 12-volt lighting and the AC are both still operational.
So here's my first question. Where do we start the process of tracing and diagnosis of what else has been fried? If anyone has access (or a link?) to the schematics or wiring diagrams for the 21WRS, or Flagstaff/Forest River TT's in general, that will help my electrician track this down. He has made me promise to stay on the sidelines!
Other ideas and guidance is very much appreciated, and I'll even accept some (gentle) ribbing about my mistake!
Chuckwag
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You picked an elevtrician that has not enough brains and he goofed not you!
Forgive yourself and find another one!
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06-09-2022, 09:31 PM
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#65
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,917
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OK, it's obvious that this thread is not being read as it's been pointed out multiple times by the OP that it's not a blame game thing. They are not filing insurance. It's a learning experience.
The site team is going to close this thread. When Chuckwag gets his converter installed, he can private message me, and I will reopen this thread to further help him in getting his RV repaired and others may can too in reading in the future..
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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06-12-2022, 03:17 PM
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#66
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 18
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Hey folks:
We’ve replaced the converter and all systems are working perfectly.
I’ve replaced the battery since the old one was 8 years old, (and my grandson needed the old one for his trolling motor!) 😎
And I’ve ordered a new microwave since the old one was fried and discontinued.
The fridge is working perfectly on shore power, and the AC is cooling and cycling as it should.
We’re heading out on our first trip in over a year soon, and I appreciate everyone's advice and assistance!
Cheers!
Chuckwag
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06-12-2022, 06:37 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Central coast Calif.
Posts: 725
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Glad you solved all issues! Happy endings are great.
__________________
Cross-threading works better than blue loctite.
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06-12-2022, 07:23 PM
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#68
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 18
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Yes they are!
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06-20-2022, 08:21 PM
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#69
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 18
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Hey guys, I’m getting the camper all ready for it’s first trip in a while, and while flushing out the water system noticed that the pump switch no longer works—no resistance or “click” up or down.
Related to my snafu, or just a bad switch?
TIA!
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06-20-2022, 08:32 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckwag
Hey guys, I’m getting the camper all ready for it’s first trip in a while, and while flushing out the water system noticed that the pump switch no longer works—no resistance or “click” up or down.
Related to my snafu, or just a bad switch?
TIA!
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Could be related as anything is possible.
There should be a fuse at the water pump. 12v of course. Good place to start.
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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06-20-2022, 08:38 PM
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#71
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,484
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Sounds like a bad switch. Test it with a multimeter.
__________________
Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
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06-20-2022, 08:39 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hawkins, Texas
Posts: 1,243
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It could be related to your earlier problem. But I do not think that it is. My thought is that if there is no click up or down sounds like a failure of the switch mechanics. It may be time to break out the multi meter and make sure.
__________________
Chuck & Sandra
Engineer/Teacher
2010 F350 CC 6.4
2015 Prime Time Sanibel 3601
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06-20-2022, 08:42 PM
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#73
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Central coast Calif.
Posts: 725
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If the switch is one that lights up when on, it will have three wires to the back, pos in, po out and a ground to work the light in the switch. Maybe 2 black and a white. Short the to pos wires and pump should run, then bad switch.
__________________
Cross-threading works better than blue loctite.
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06-20-2022, 09:00 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Northern KY
Posts: 5,725
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the switch is a demand switch
once the water system is filled with water and pressurized the switch will auto cut-off only to turn on again when the pressure falls when opening a faucet bringing the system back to pressure...
male sure you are understanding how the water pump operates
https://youtu.be/bye7kO9cWxs
MAYBE this one too
https://youtu.be/pf1fN-Sm5NU
__________________
"nothing can now be believed which is seen in a newspaper. Truth itself becomes suspicious by being put into that polluted vehicle."
Thomas Jefferson to John Norvell pg. 2, June 11, 1807
2014 Shamrock 183
2014 RAM 1500 Bighorn Crew Cab, HEMI, 3.21 gears, 8 Spd, 4X4 TST TPMS
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06-20-2022, 09:26 PM
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#75
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 18
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I’ll check it out, thanks!
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06-20-2022, 09:45 PM
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#76
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata
the switch is a demand switch
once the water system is filled with water and pressurized the switch will auto cut-off only to turn on again when the pressure falls when opening a faucet bringing the system back to pressure...
male sure you are understanding how the water pump operates
https://youtu.be/bye7kO9cWxs
MAYBE this one too
https://youtu.be/pf1fN-Sm5NU
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You must be talking about the pressure switch on/in the water pump itself. As I understand it, the OP is talking about the main water pump ON/OFF switch in the control panel.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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06-21-2022, 08:12 AM
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#77
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,574
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Mechanical failure
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dan
You must be talking about the pressure switch on/in the water pump itself. As I understand it, the OP is talking about the main water pump ON/OFF switch in the control panel.
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^^^This^^^
The pump is part of the 12 Vdc system. All your damage was in the 120 Vac system. This is an unrelated problem, possibly a mechanical failure within the switch. If it persists after you have drawn the pressure down by running water, then jumper across the switch (put a screwdriver across the two terminals) as a test.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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06-21-2022, 09:02 PM
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#78
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 18
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I’ll check it out this weekend. Thanks guys!
Is there a good online source for a replacement?
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