I made a BIG mistake, need help/eletrical

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

I got “I would think…” but do you have anything more concrete?

So you really think there is an RV manufacturer out there who says - "Hey guys, just build this thing" and doesn't have the drawings behind it to support it? That would be ludicrous to think so. Ah heck, guys, just run whatever gauge wire you can find wherever it needs to go, as long as it is done by Tuesday, we at Forest River don't care what wire you use or where you run it.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

So you really think there is an RV manufacturer out there who says - "Hey guys, just build this thing" and doesn't have the drawings behind it to support it? That would be ludicrous to think so. Ah heck, guys, just run whatever gauge wire you can find wherever it needs to go, as long as it is done by Tuesday, we at Forest River don't care what wire you use or where you run it.

So you don’t have anything more concrete.
Your scenario would be more dramatic if you had the foreman tell workers to wear blindfolds and boxing gloves. A worker could be told/trained to run power to a water heater with 12awg wire without being provided a schematic showing exactly what route to take from point A to point B.

[gw1800]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

I would think that every RV our there has design specifications including all of the electrical schematics and mechanical drawings there are supposed to be (but not always) built to. It's a matter of whether or not the manufacturer wishes to provide those drawings to the publec.

I tired to get the exact build sheet for my trailer with all model and serial numbers listed for what was installed in the trailer. I was told they don't have one. It depends on what they have on the line at the time.

As far as the wiring, they run wires from point A to point B. No rhyme or reason to the way they do it. I have fond 12v wiring change colors midstream.

[ebergler]

Originally Posted by Chuckwag

Good evening folks, Chuckwag here. We've owned and loved our 2013 Flagstaff/VLite 21WRS for a few years now, and have used it with great success less than a dozen times. Each trip we learned something new about the 21WRS, and generally have had zero problems with anything. We love it!

Here's where I goofed up, and I'm afraid in a big way! A few weeks ago I asked my electrician friend to run a 220-volt/30-amp plug from our home close to the camper, so I wouldn't have to run a long shore power cord across my carport.

Those of you who understand electronics better than I do should already understand my problem. When my electrician friend and I hooked up the power, he heard something that made him immediately unplug the camper!

That's when he discovered my mistake, and realized the camper is 120-volt/30-amp, rather than 220-volt!! His only mistake was assuming I knew ANYTHING about TT electronics.

So far, we've confirmed that several things no longer work from the brief high voltage connection. Among them are the microwave, (it's totally fried), refrigerator, the slide, the awning, etc. Surprisingly, the 12-volt lighting and the AC are both still operational.

So here's my first question. Where do we start the process of tracing and diagnosis of what else has been fried? If anyone has access (or a link?) to the schematics or wiring diagrams for the 21WRS, or Flagstaff/Forest River TT's in general, that will help my electrician track this down. He has made me promise to stay on the sidelines!

Other ideas and guidance is very much appreciated, and I'll even accept some (gentle) ribbing about my mistake!

Chuckwag

You picked an elevtrician that has not enough brains and he goofed not you!
Forgive yourself and find another one!

[wmtire]

OK, it's obvious that this thread is not being read as it's been pointed out multiple times by the OP that it's not a blame game thing. They are not filing insurance. It's a learning experience.



The site team is going to close this thread. When Chuckwag gets his converter installed, he can private message me, and I will reopen this thread to further help him in getting his RV repaired and others may can too in reading in the future..

[Chuckwag]

Hey folks:

We’ve replaced the converter and all systems are working perfectly.

I’ve replaced the battery since the old one was 8 years old, (and my grandson needed the old one for his trolling motor!) 😎

And I’ve ordered a new microwave since the old one was fried and discontinued.

The fridge is working perfectly on shore power, and the AC is cooling and cycling as it should.

We’re heading out on our first trip in over a year soon, and I appreciate everyone's advice and assistance!

Cheers!
Chuckwag

[Capacitor]

Glad you solved all issues! Happy endings are great.

[Chuckwag]

Yes they are!

[Chuckwag]

Hey guys, I’m getting the camper all ready for it’s first trip in a while, and while flushing out the water system noticed that the pump switch no longer works—no resistance or “click” up or down.

Related to my snafu, or just a bad switch?

TIA!

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Chuckwag

Hey guys, I’m getting the camper all ready for it’s first trip in a while, and while flushing out the water system noticed that the pump switch no longer works—no resistance or “click” up or down.

Related to my snafu, or just a bad switch?

TIA!

Could be related as anything is possible.

There should be a fuse at the water pump. 12v of course. Good place to start.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Sounds like a bad switch. Test it with a multimeter.

[clr]

It could be related to your earlier problem. But I do not think that it is. My thought is that if there is no click up or down sounds like a failure of the switch mechanics. It may be time to break out the multi meter and make sure.

[Capacitor]

If the switch is one that lights up when on, it will have three wires to the back, pos in, po out and a ground to work the light in the switch. Maybe 2 black and a white. Short the to pos wires and pump should run, then bad switch.

[rsdata]

the switch is a demand switch
once the water system is filled with water and pressurized the switch will auto cut-off only to turn on again when the pressure falls when opening a faucet bringing the system back to pressure...

male sure you are understanding how the water pump operates

https://youtu.be/bye7kO9cWxs

MAYBE this one too
https://youtu.be/pf1fN-Sm5NU

[Chuckwag]

I’ll check it out, thanks!

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by rsdata

the switch is a demand switch
once the water system is filled with water and pressurized the switch will auto cut-off only to turn on again when the pressure falls when opening a faucet bringing the system back to pressure...

male sure you are understanding how the water pump operates

https://youtu.be/bye7kO9cWxs

MAYBE this one too
https://youtu.be/pf1fN-Sm5NU

You must be talking about the pressure switch on/in the water pump itself. As I understand it, the OP is talking about the main water pump ON/OFF switch in the control panel.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

You must be talking about the pressure switch on/in the water pump itself. As I understand it, the OP is talking about the main water pump ON/OFF switch in the control panel.

^^^This^^^

The pump is part of the 12 Vdc system. All your damage was in the 120 Vac system. This is an unrelated problem, possibly a mechanical failure within the switch. If it persists after you have drawn the pressure down by running water, then jumper across the switch (put a screwdriver across the two terminals) as a test.

[Chuckwag]

I’ll check it out this weekend. Thanks guys!

Is there a good online source for a replacement?