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Old 04-08-2018, 03:34 PM   #21
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To wmtire etal...An afterthought: You will notice this thing has 15-amp connectors, and you may wonder how I had it in line with my 30-amp shore connection. I just used 15/30 amp adapters both in and out.
Got you on the adapters. But this now brings up something else since you showed that. Have you tested "anything" again since turning on the A/C at the specific outlet you plugged the inline tester into? My thought now is since you stated you are using adapters...is where did you do the test at (home or campground), and could you possibly have tripped a circuit breaker when you turned on the energy hog Air conditioner.

I wouldn't think it would be as easy as you had no 120 volt AC entering the RV after turning on the Air conditioner via a tripped circuit breaker..... but you would get zero amperage.

Your lights and other DC stuff would continue to work in the RV, as long as you had a charged battery, but you would get no 120 volt AC (or AC amperage) if you tripped a circuit breaker while testing the air conditioner.

There are also several points that could have failed (adapters, wiring inside tester, etc) when using the air conditioner since the a/c is usually on a 20 amp circuit breaker just by itself.... and you may have the tester built for 15 amps max.
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Old 04-08-2018, 03:37 PM   #22
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That covers it RVBuff. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:46 PM   #23
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wmtire...I'm still leaning toward faulty meter, or more accurately, one that is unreliable. I've checked it in our house with several appliances, and it gives readings that are "ballpark" close to label ratings. I haven't been back to check the trailer again, but probably will later.

The trailer is on a dedicated 30 amp outlet on a 30 amp breaker at our house, with a 30-amp RV cord (10-3?) from house to trailer. The voltage in the trailer measured about 122-123 volts continuously during the test (I have a meter that stays plugged in).

The 15-amp plug, 12-3 cord and 15 amp receptacle on my box could have been limiting factors, but for a brief test with only one load at a time, I don't think that would have mattered.

I thought about a tripped breaker in the trailer, but that wasn't the case. For the test, I turned on the fridge from a warm start with gas off, so it should have been running. I left it running after the test, and it made ice in the freezer. As for AC, it was blowing cool air during the test.

I had one other thought--since those clamp-on meters work on induction without a physical connection, I'm wondering if the ground or common wires in my meter box could be so close to the meter that it is picking up a radiated return current that cancels the reading from the connected wire. Seems far-fetched, though.

Anyway, thanks for your help and interest.
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:54 PM   #24
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In line amp meters are not so popular in cars. Causes fires as I remember.
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:03 PM   #25
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The trailer is on a dedicated 30 amp outlet on a 30 amp breaker at our house, with a 30-amp RV cord (10-3?) from house to trailer. The voltage in the trailer measured about 122-123 volts continuously during the test (I have a meter that stays plugged in).

I thought about a tripped breaker in the trailer, but that wasn't the case. For the test, I turned on the fridge from a warm start with gas off, so it should have been running. I left it running after the test, and it made ice in the freezer. As for AC, it was blowing cool air during the test.
Yep, if the AC kept working, then no chance of an easy tripped circuit breaker.
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