microwave/fireplace not working 2019 GW 26DBH

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by wmtire

I believe he is talking about the total number of branch circuits....which is limited by which type of RV you have (30 vs 50 amp) and circuit breaker sizes. The load shedding device keeps you within this number by sharing the same circuit between the two appliances.

The way my PMS...Power Management System works....2018 Cherokee...Dual A/C 30A service is....Everything is separate circuits...WH, A/C, Micro, Frig, then branch circuits (110 outlets). The PMS monitors the total amps to keep below the 30A max and sheds loads in a pre-determined sequence. It only manages power if both A/C units are running. It only allows one A/C at a time and cycles them in the sequence with the other appliances. If I'm going to run both A/C units, I make sure the WH and Frig are both running on gas side and it eliminates them from turning on and off by the PMS. Only thing I hate is the circuit for the TV is on there....Which Manufacturer stated..."Well that's stupid and there isn't enough load to make much of a difference."

[uphoto]

I'm bumping this to see if the OP got this fixed.

My Fireplace and Microwave are not working on the exact same year and model trailer. Fuse and breaker are fine, there is no switch near the fireplace or microwave. I pulled the panel and there was nothing under the fridge or behind the panel, nothing on the back of the panel either!

I'm at a major loss. I pulled the microwave to see if there was anything back there and there was nothing, unplugged it and plugged it back in and nothing.

[MR.M]

did you check the outlet of the microwave to see if there was power ? if yes got power then bad microwave . could be fuse in unit . if not then you are losing power to the unit trace back to distribution panel / fireplace could be a loose common etc in one out let first in line from panel . 2 hire a repair tech

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by uphoto

I'm bumping this to see if the OP got this fixed.

The OP hasn't posted on the Forum for a year.
You might want to send them a PM and see if they answer.

[uphoto]

Originally Posted by MR.M

did you check the outlet of the microwave to see if there was power ? if yes got power then bad microwave . could be fuse in unit . if not then you are losing power to the unit trace back to distribution panel / fireplace could be a loose common etc in one out let first in line from panel . 2 hire a repair tech

Both were working at one point when I first bought it. I think I made the mistake though of running both at the same time, that was the last time I used either of them and since then neither have been working.

I'll go double check that plug at the microwave to see if it's working but I'm guessing it's not. Doubt both went bad at the same time without being connected since they are both on the same circuit.

[uphoto]

Originally Posted by bikendan

The OP hasn't posted on the Forum for a year.
You might want to send them a PM and see if they answer.

Will do!

[drkrunch]

I had the same problem with our 2019 GW 264dbh. We were told that the switch was blown by have an external inverter generator hooked to the system. I purchased a 3400 watt duel fuel rv inverter generator to boondock. The first time I fired it up we lost the microwave and the fireplace. They replaced the electronic switch (it worked at the dealership before we left) and indicated that the system is NOT designed to work with inverter generators. I still need to call FR to confirm that statement as it does not make much sense as to why a system would be designed that will not allow the use of a generator. I hope that helps.

[uphoto]

Originally Posted by drkrunch

I had the same problem with our 2019 GW 264dbh. We were told that the switch was blown by have an external inverter generator hooked to the system. I purchased a 3400 watt duel fuel rv inverter generator to boondock. The first time I fired it up we lost the microwave and the fireplace. They replaced the electronic switch (it worked at the dealership before we left) and indicated that the system is NOT designed to work with inverter generators. I still need to call FR to confirm that statement as it does not make much sense as to why a system would be designed that will not allow the use of a generator. I hope that helps.

Just wonderful! uggghhhhh.......

OP still hasn't has his fixed either, so nobody knows the answer to this or has had it fixed for this year and model?

We have a 2 year old who still has a few warm bottles during the day or before naps, so for now we use a hot plate when it's early in the morning which isn't a great option when boondocking.

Really need to figure this out.

[DonD]

I posted in this forum that my Load Shed Device went bad last year. Even tho I was two weeks out of warranty, FR approved the replacement. Due to backlog last fall at dealership we decided to wait till spring after getting our of winter storage. Then with covid this spring, it just got repaired last month. On mine the device is behind the converter/circuit panel under the fridge.

BTW, dealer said they have replaced several of them so I would assume there was a bad batch.

[uphoto]

Looks like I might have found what I'm supposed to look for.

Attached to the back of my circuit case was this "Energy Management Switch"

Is this the thing that's probably bad? It shows that it goes to the A/C though on the back cover diagram. Again, there is nothing anywhere at the fireplace or the microwave though.

It looks pretty damn intricate, might be able to replace it myself though.

[uphoto]

This is the unit that needs to be replaced.

Expensive little guy, most people want $130 for it but found somebody on eBay selling them for $79

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WFCO-Arterr...MAAOSwHgdeYpzF

I'll order it and let you all know how it goes.

[Bama Rambler]

That one will work, but you can also replace it with the Auto Load Shed ALS-20 by Parallax. Best Converter has them for $77. The ALS-20 is a little higher rated so it may last longer.

[Bama Rambler]

Originally Posted by uphoto

... My Fireplace and Microwave are not working on the exact same year and model trailer....

I missed this. Since you have a 2019 RV keep in mind that, that device has a two year warranty, so you might want to contact WFCO and see if they'll replace it.

[uphoto]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I missed this. Since you have a 2019 RV keep in mind that, that device has a two year warranty, so you might want to contact WFCO and see if they'll replace it.

Wasnt aware of that, I'll check with them for sure.

[uphoto]

WFCO denied any warranty because I'm not the original owner, a person before me had it for a few months........

I replaced it today and I have a FP and a Microwave now

Was a bit of a pita but got it done. So if you have one of the trailers without the manual switch, the EM-15 that is mounted to the back of the panel is what you need to replace.

[Moon6402]

How hard was it to replace? I had the same issue with mine. Do you use a generator at all by any chance?

[uphoto]

Originally Posted by Moon6402

How hard was it to replace? I had the same issue with mine. Do you use a generator at all by any chance?

Wasnt too bad, just take a picture or label the wires to make sure you put them back in the same way and it's not tough, took maybe 15 min?

Yes, use a generator but not at the time this thing went bad.

[jimmarako]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

That would be a no-no! Adding an additional breaker would create a potential overload situation on the main panel. Every time you forgot and started the microwave while the fireplace was on you would most likely blow the main breaker. Not to mention it would be against code.

Aaron

OK I know this post is a bit old. I'm not an electrician so maybe someone can clarify this. How is this bad, wrong, or dangerous?

First off I believe as long as there is a free spot(s) you can add as many breakers as the panel will hold. That will certainly add up to more than the main breaker. In fact from the factory for 30 amp trailers there are more loads than 30 amps will supply. My home panel probably has 3x the main breaker rating.

Second I've run my AC and Microwave at the same time often. Running a fireplace, which will draw about the same as the AC, and Microwave should be no problem.

Just wondering. This doesn't apply to me, but if I was in the OP's situation and the switch broke, it would be gone.

Jim M.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by jimmarako

OK I know this post is a bit old. I'm not an electrician so maybe someone can clarify this. How is this bad, wrong, or dangerous?

First off I believe as long as there is a free spot(s) you can add as many breakers as the panel will hold. That will certainly add up to more than the main breaker. In fact from the factory for 30 amp trailers there are more loads than 30 amps will supply. My home panel probably has 3x the main breaker rating.

Second I've run my AC and Microwave at the same time often. Running a fireplace, which will draw about the same as the AC, and Microwave should be no problem.

Just wondering. This doesn't apply to me, but if I was in the OP's situation and the switch broke, it would be gone.

Jim M.

You can run ac and microwave at the same time on 30 but add in the ele water heater and the breaker will trip just about any 2 high draw items will work but not 3

[jimmarako]

Originally Posted by MR.M

You can run ac and microwave at the same time on 30 but add in the ele water heater and the breaker will trip just about any 2 high draw items will work but not 3

Yes, I agree. When we had our 30 amp trailer it was AC and something, or Hairdryer and something, or space heater and something,..... Only 2 high draw items at a time.

But I don't see the point of these switches. You are not going to turn on your AC and the fireplace at the same time. And if you wanted to, something would trip and you would know better next time.

Jim M.