Oven won’t stay lit

[Qicvick]

I posted this to another thread but forum said thread was too old, basically oven warms up to preset heat but when burner cuts off, so does pilot, had new trailer 2 years and never used oven :
Having same problems, ovens never worked going on 2 years since new, dealership replaced thermocouple while in shop for other warranty work, next trip out same problem, took it back to shop, after 3 weeks another thermocouple was approved, didn’t fix it, another 3 weeks a gas manifold was approved, didn’t fix it, another 3 weeks a brand new oven was approved, tested it at dealership, ran for 10 minutes still working ( burner was still on though, brought it home , decided to bake cookies while still at home, same thing!!! When burner goes out so does pilot! This trailer has been in shop more than 300 days of the 23 months we’ve owned it!!! Manufacturer extended warranty a year because of problems, it’s at least 6-8 weeks , once over 12 weeks every time it goes in for warranty work, so sick of this trailer!!!

[ARhappycamper]

Bad gas ? Try another tank ?

[Qicvick]

No, the top burners work perfect, did on the stove they replaced too,only the oven, the burner in oven will burn indefinitely if you leave oven door open, and for a while with door closed till oven reaches desired temp (350, 400, 425degresss etc) when the oven reaches temp the burner shuts off and so does pilot, oven has no way to relight to maintain temp when temp starts cooling down inside oven, I’ve tried both tanks which are almost full since we’ve only used trailer 5 times since we bought it March 31, 2019 . It’s been in shop 307 days of that time!

[TitanMike]

This is a known problem if your oven is a Suburban.

They had a run (apparently a large one) of bad pilot light assemblies. Contact a Dealer and see if he can order the replacement for you as Suburban won't sell them direct.

A small wrench for the gas tube and a Philips head screw drive, along with about 15 minutes will fix the problem for good.

Also, while doing this (if you do), the pilot flame should be right at the edge of the wide spot in the main burner flame when heating. Sometimes, according to a service tech I spoke with, the pilot bracket is bent and the pilot flame is "buried" in the main flame. When the burner switches to low, to just maintain heat, it will "poof" a little and it blows out the pilot flame.

Again, this is according to the tech I discussed this problem with. I replaced my pilot assembly and made sure the flame position was correct. Bracket needed a little tweaking with a needle nose plier and now I can even bake items for several hours if I want.

BTW, Total Cost, including shipping was around $12. I chose to do the work even though I could have had it done under warranty. Would have cost me twice that for just the cost of fuel to tow the trailer to the dealer --- One Way and then the wait of a couple weeks didn't sound all that attractive.

[Qicvick]

That’s good/bad news, I have a pretty strained relationship with my dealer, ( UnitedRV) . Like I said my trailer has been in shop for 307 days in 23 months, I’ve asked for a replacement, a refund , or take legal action from them and coachman both, ( that’s when I got an extra year warranty) . Would any dealer order one for me?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Qicvick

That’s good/bad news, I have a pretty strained relationship with my dealer, ( UnitedRV) . Like I said my trailer has been in shop for 307 days in 23 months, I’ve asked for a replacement, a refund , or take legal action from them and coachman both, ( that’s when I got an extra year warranty) . Would any dealer order one for me?

Any Dealer.
I bought mine from a totally different dealee than I bought my trailer from.

You will need a dealer that's an authorized suburban service center so check their website for one near you.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Qicvick

That’s good/bad news, I have a pretty strained relationship with my dealer, ( UnitedRV) . Like I said my trailer has been in shop for 307 days in 23 months, I’ve asked for a replacement, a refund , or take legal action from them and coachman both, ( that’s when I got an extra year warranty) . Would any dealer order one for me?

This is why owners should get an independent RV shop or mobile RV technician to do the warranty work instead of the dealer. You just have to get pre-approval from FR and be willing to be reimbursed. Especially for individual components that have their own separate warranties, like ovens and fridges.

[Qicvick]

Thank you! I found a dealer on web site

[MCTroy]

TitanMike, thanks! I gave up trying to adjust the pikot and replacing the thermocouple in our 2015 Suburban oven. I have been leaving the oven door open a little to keep it lit! I will try the replacement you suggested as the position if the pilot light. That makes good sense.

[The Newsoms]

Mine does the exact same thing. Have gotten the new pilot assembly in but not installed yet. Hope it corrects the problem. You cannot make decent cornbread in a convection over.

[Dirthawg_]

I may be a little late to the party here but I had the same problem with my suburban oven.


The fix:

The thermocouple was not inline with the pilot flame. A little tweak of the thermocouple with needle nose pliers did the trick!

I also had an issue with the suburban hot water heater not igniting. Same issue, thermocouple was not in direct line with the flame.

[MCTroy]

Originally Posted by Dirthawg_

I may be a little late to the party here but I had the same problem with my suburban oven.


The fix:

The thermocouple was not inline with the pilot flame. A little tweak of the thermocouple with needle nose pliers did the trick!

I also had an issue with the suburban hot water heater not igniting. Same issue, thermocouple was not in direct line with the flame.

I would like to try this. I know what and where the thermocouple is, but could someone take a picture of where the flame should be? Sorry if that seems like a dumb request. Just not sure if ours is lined up correctly.

[Dirthawg_]

Originally Posted by MCTroy

I would like to try this. I know what and where the thermocouple is, but could someone take a picture of where the flame should be? Sorry if that seems like a dumb request. Just not sure if ours is lined up correctly.

I will take a picture tomorrow of the pilot light and thermocouple.

The basic principle is the thermocouple has to sense the pilot or it will turn the gas off for safety reasons.

[The Newsoms]

Originally Posted by MCTroy

I would like to try this. I know what and where the thermocouple is, but could someone take a picture of where the flame should be? Sorry if that seems like a dumb request. Just not sure if ours is lined up correctly.

What they said. 👆

[Dirthawg_]

Here are a couple of images. The thermocouple needs to be at the center of the pilot light stream, they don't necessarily need to be aligned vertically but the thermocouple does need to be in the pilot stream for proper heat detection.

In my oven the two were misaligned very slightly and the thermocouple was not registering the heat from the pilot so the gas shuts off right after the burner shuts down.





I used a pair of needle nose pliers to very gently bend the pilot assembly to the left. I also adjusted the aluminum bracket that holds the thermocouple to the right very carefully. Then tested the oven and observed the pilot was still lit after the burner shuts off.

[Dirthawg_]

I posted a couple images and it appears a moderator has to approve my post since I recently joined the forum.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Dirthawg_

I posted a couple images and it appears a moderator has to approve my post since I recently joined the forum.

DONE!

[Dirthawg_]

Thank you sir!

[MCTroy]

That is so helpful!! Thank you. We plan to open our trailer in a couple of weeks. All this Ohio snow should be gone then. I am definitely going to check out the placement of the flame. Thank you for taking the time to.do this!!

[Dirthawg_]

Good luck! I hope your issue is resolved with this simple tweak.