"Pre Wired" A/C Self Install or Dealer?

[Oakstone]

Hi there,

I've got a 2018 201BHXL that has 3 roof vents, the middle of which is pre-wired for A/C. The initial owner must have opted for a unit without A/C.

How tricky is a self-install vs. getting the dealer to do it?

Seems I can order various units online but would want to ensure it's compatible with my pre-wiring setup.

Thanks!

[Super 8]

I have done a couple, here is an example of a complete kit if you want to do it yourself.
https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Domet...15000-BTU.html

[Oakstone]

Thanks! Anything specific to watch out for? It seems pretty straightforward.

Next to my vent cutout I have a small cover with “AC Prep Sensor Location”. Is that used if I get a kit like you linked?

[formerFR]

that's interesting, if what you're saying is, the unit, when new, came with NO Air Conditioning.... I find that hard to believe, but who am I to judge?

[Oakstone]

This is the place with the little panel. It doesn’t seem like there was ever a unit here but I could be wrong.

https://imgur.com/a/kPu6L5x

[Larry-NC]

You might check to see what "prewired" really means. There are two concerns:

• Is there a 120v, 20a circuit? (I think that's what's in the "Pre-wired" box. You could open it up and look for 12 AWG NM cable inside.)
• Has wiring been run for the thermostat? You might have noticed a prepared spot on the wall? If not, you will either have to buy an A/C with built-in thermostat or run wires for one.

Since your trailer is a 20-foot unit, the system is probably not ducted (no air ducts in the roof). Most air conditioners have an option to emit all the cool air directly or via ducts.

It might be easiest to select an air conditioner that:

• Has built-in thermostat
• Is designed for non-ducted installation

[NJKris]

It was a piece of cake replacing my Coleman that was bad when it was brand new. If the wiring is already there, you just plug in the connector. Trickiest part is getting heavy unit up on roof. I sort of helped the transmission shop guys who were doing it.

[Oakstone]

It’s definitely not ducted and we have an existing gas furnace, so I was planning on getting a unit that can run ductless and with the controls on the unit itself. Seems like I’m headed in the right direction. I guess just pulling the trim to see what wires are back there is the next step.

Thanks!

[ysidive]

Originally Posted by Oakstone

It’s definitely not ducted and we have an existing gas furnace, so I was planning on getting a unit that can run ductless and with the controls on the unit itself. Seems like I’m headed in the right direction. I guess just pulling the trim to see what wires are back there is the next step.

Thanks!

If you can find a Coleman unit, purchase that instead of the Dometic.....The Coleman units seem to be much more trouble free than the Dometic....Mobil repair man said he replaces Dometic 6-7 to one of the Coleman.....

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Oakstone

It’s definitely not ducted and we have an existing gas furnace, so I was planning on getting a unit that can run ductless and with the controls on the unit itself. Seems like I’m headed in the right direction. I guess just pulling the trim to see what wires are back there is the next step.

Thanks!

Open that little junction box that says "prewired" first. That's where the 120v 20a circuit will terminate.

[Merwin]

Can someone answer these question? We have a 2019 Flagstaff and it is wired for 2 A/C units with only 1 installed. I need to know “Can you run both units at the same time? If not what good is the second unit? If you can run both how does it not trip the breaker? Does the control unit alternate both units? When the outside temp is around 85 to 90 one unit doesn’t get it done. Is anyone cooling their unit with one A/C? In other words how do these work before I buy a second unit?”

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Merwin

Can someone answer these question? We have a 2019 Flagstaff and it is wired for 2 A/C units with only 1 installed. I need to know “Can you run both units at the same time? If not what good is the second unit? If you can run both how does it not trip the breaker? Does the control unit alternate both units? When the outside temp is around 85 to 90 one unit doesn’t get it done. Is anyone cooling their unit with one A/C? In other words how do these work before I buy a second unit?”

Okay, Merwin, does your Flagstaff connect to 30 amp service or 50 amp service?

Stated another way, does the power plug have three contacts or four?

Three contacts means 30 amp service. You just might barely be able to run two smaller (13,500 BTU) units with absolutely nothing else on.

Four contacts means 50 amp service, which is really two 50 amp services at once, total of 100 amps available. You could run two larger (15,000 BTU) units and lots of other stuff with no problems.

Let us know which you have.

[Super 8]

Check for a 20 amp breaker for the AC in your fuse panel.
Here is the Coleman option instead of Dometic.
https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Colem...lete-c966.html

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Super 8

Check for a 20 amp breaker for the AC in your fuse panel.
Here is the Coleman option instead of Dometic.
https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Colem...lete-c966.html

Do you know if it has a thermostat directly mounted on the unit?

[NJKris]

Thermostat on those non-ducted units are typically right on the unit. I have a Coleman Mach VIII low profile, which is nice as it sits much lower on the roof of the RV, not a giant bump like others, specifically the one linked to. Mine is only an inch or two taller than my little Wineguard TV antenna.