Propane Out or Battery Smoked?

[TexDave44]

I recently went camping this weekend (boondock) in my Rockwood 2280BHESP and had 2 full propane tanks and during the day I know I used a lot of propane to heat during the day but at night it totally stopped heating. I switched propane tanks and the heater wouldn't work. Could it be that my battery was drained so much that it wouldn't spark to get the propane heated? Anyone else run into this problem as I need to know if I just need to bring a whole mess of propane ar need just a new battery?

[Evo2700]

The furnace drains a ton of power. Probably the battery.

[Teresa CAL]

Were your lights working? If they were, then your battery wasn’t dead.

I know my heater really burns through the propane when I run it all night.

[BarabooBob]

Try turning on your cook stove. No electricity required so if you have LP you should be able to light it with a handheld igniter.
Do you have a voltmeter to check the battery?

[wharfrat48]

Is the stove getting propane? Heater will not work without 12V power, so I'd guess battery.

[TexDave44]

The lights were working but I have small 9v lights and only had 1 on for like 10 minutes

[TexDave44]

I need to get a voltmeter and when I got back from camping I hooked it up to a trickle charger until I head out again in a few weeks. Looking back at all the responses, I'm sure it is a battery issue now. Thanks for all the replies!!!

[Flybob]

Could be either. If you emptied one tank then you lost pressure in the lines. If you turn on the second tank one of two things could have happened. If you turned it on too fast you could have activated the open flow safety valve a small amount of air in the lines. If it is the safety valve, turn the good tank off wait about 4 minutes then turn it on very slowly until you hear fuel flowing, Wait about 30 seconds and continue opening it. If the lights are dim then you may have drained the battery too low.

[Thurman]

I also agree that you need to have and need to learn how to use a simple, inexpensive volt/amp meter. Your problem does sound more to be a low battery problem.These are available at Wal-Mart, Lowe's, Home Depot, and other stores. I seem to remember that there is a "low voltage" point at which an RV heating system will not light. Please-others help me on that. LED lighting will work efficiently to the eye at something like 4 volts DC and I'm thinking that 9 volts is the furnace low voltage point. One thing you can do provided that there is a town nearby, is take the battery out of the RV, take it to an auto parts store and have it tested for 1) Current voltage status, and 2) a load test which will tell you IF the battery sort of "nose dives" then put under a load. They have the tools to do this, and they sell affordable volt meters. You stated that you are boondocking. Do you have a generator? IF so then you might want to consider a battery charger to use during the day dedicated to charging that one battery that you have. Running the RV from a genny during the day will only provide a "maintenance dose" of charge to the battery. IF you do not have a genny available, explain your situation to the auto parts store and I'm betting that the people there will charge you battery for free.

[dbledan]

Let us know. What you find and if still a problem tell us what the furnace does when starting.

I had issues once when plugged in. Furnace would not light and burners would. I swapped the regulator and things were better but when the second tank kicked in the pigtail was bad and blocked propane at higher rates some how. I had multiple issues. I ended up swapping the working pigtail to the full tank to get working. I swapped both pigtails out once I got parts later.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Could be either. If you emptied one tank then you lost pressure in the lines. If you turn on the second tank one of two things could have happened. If you turned it on too fast you could have activated the open flow safety valve a small amount of air in the lines. If it is the safety valve, turn the good tank off wait about 4 minutes then turn it on very slowly until you hear fuel flowing, Wait about 30 seconds and continue opening it. If the lights are dim then you may have drained the battery too low.

This is why I have both tanks turned on while camping. My regulator has an automatic changeover so why not. If was worried about a leak I'd test the system and fix the leak.

As for the pigtails, I changed the originals out the first year. First off they were too short and second, after a year they were so stiff it was if they were made from metal tubing. It appeared that the "rubber" was degrading and new ones are still nice and flexible. Makes it easier to connect as I don't have to force them into alignment.

[Okie Dokie 2]

If mine runs out of propane and I change out the tank I have to turn my thermostat off for a few seconds and then back on before it will lite again.

[TexDave44]

great feedback! I'm so impressed. Left without a father when I was young, this whole mechanical/rv thing has me asking more questions than not. I'll unhook the battery and bring it over to a nearby Autozone or O'Reilly Auto Parts (both within 2 miles) and have them test the battery. Gonna grab me a volt meter and have them teach me how to use it and make sure my propane tanks are always draining off both with knob in middle (I think my son moved it over). I really appreciate all the help!!!

[BriaBeck]

Originally Posted by TexDave44

...and make sure my propane tanks are always draining off both with knob in middle (I think my son moved it over). I really appreciate all the help!!!

Dave,


When I read the comment above, it just raised a red flag to me, so if you already know this, then my apologies...


I don't know exactly which propane regulator you have, but normally you want the "knob" pointed at the tank that you are drawing propane from, even though you'll normally have BOTH tank valves open. That way, when your selected tank goes empty, the regulator will AUTOMATICALLY switch over to the other tank. There should be an indicator on the regulator that is either green or red... Green indicates that you are still drawing propane from the selected tank... if the indicator goes RED, that means that the SELECTED tank is EMPTY, and the regulator has automatically switched over to the other tank. When you see this, just move the tank selector knob over to your full tank, and then refill the empty one. The process will repeat when the 2nd tank goes empty. You'll need to check your propane regulator and look at the indicator periodically so that you change/fill your tanks in a timely manner and not be caught without propane at the worst moment.



If you leave the selector knob in the middle, then both tanks could go empty at the same time, and you'll have NO propane with NO warning. That could make for a chilly morning in more ways than one... LOL


Hope this helps...

[mlmay12]

Originally Posted by TexDave44

I recently went camping this weekend (boondock) in my Rockwood 2280BHESP and had 2 full propane tanks and during the day I know I used a lot of propane to heat during the day but at night it totally stopped heating. I switched propane tanks and the heater wouldn't work. Could it be that my battery was drained so much that it wouldn't spark to get the propane heated? Anyone else run into this problem as I need to know if I just need to bring a whole mess of propane ar need just a new battery?

The fan uses lots of power draining battery and furnace will not turn on without fan.

[Archicamper]

You definitely need a minimum voltage to start the furnace. You can still have lights and not enough juice to have heat. I know this from one very cold night at Tetons National Park in my popup!

[kgriff5667]

When my unit runs out of propane from one tank to the other, I have to make sure the line is filled by lighting the stove burners, which will take a minute or two for the gas line to fill up. Also, the fridge does not re light until I turn the fridge switch off then back on to reset its self.

[Scrapper]

Low voltage will not let the furnace light. There is a switch in the furnace called a "sail switch", there is a plate attached in the pathway of the air being pushed by the fan when the air flow is adequate will cause the plate to close the sail switch. When the sail switch closes it tells the control board that all is well and the controller then opens a valve letting gas through to the burner. If the battery voltage is low it will not let the fan spin fast enough to force the sail switch to close.

Another cause of the furnace fan not activating the sail switch is if someone places anything in front of the cold air return vent thus blocking the air flow into the furnace.

Sequence of Operations

1st Stage Call for Heat
The wall thermostat controls the operation of the dual stage furnace by reacting to room temperature. This allows current to flow through the On/Off switch to the Blower Speed Control Board then to the Module Board. The module board constantly checks for a minimum 9.5 volts. If there is not 9.5 volts, the module board will go into a standby mode until adequate power is supplied. It will then resume normal operation. Upon a call from the thermostat the first stage will be activated. The module board thermostat circuit will go active and the sail switch is verified as being open. The blower output is energized. The blower motor starts.

15 Second Purge Cycle
The module board will then verify that the sail switch circuit is closed and motor is up to speed. If this circuit remains open for 30 seconds after the blower motor starts, the module board will go into lockout and shut down the blower motor. The module board checks that the gas valve relay contacts (located on the module board) are open before the igniting sequence starts. The board has a pre-purge timing circuit of approximately 15 seconds. This allows the combustion chamber to purge.

7 Second Ignition Cycle and Flame Sense
The module board will energize the gas valve and enable the high voltage spark output to the electrode for a seven second ignition period. The module board will then check for flame sense to verify successful lighting of the main burner flame. Sparking of the igniter is then terminated. The gas valve and blower outputs will remain energized. If ignition is successful the module board will monitor the flame sense, sail switch, and the limit switch circuits. The flame is sensed through the spark wire and electrode therefore, it is essential that the electrode is properly positioned in the burner flame.

3 try Ignition Board
If the flame is NOT sensed after seven (7) seconds, or if the unit fails to ignite, a second fifteen (15) purge cycle will begin followed by second trial for ignition sequence. After three (3) trial for ignition attempts with no ignition of the main burner, the module board will de-energize the gas valve immediately and the blower will run for three (3) minutes and then go into lockout mode.

2nd Stage Heating
If during the thermostat cycle the demand for heat drops below the second stage thermostat setting ( 3 to 5 degrees variance depending on thermostat manufacturer), the blower speed control board will be energized. The blower speed control board will energize the additional gas valve solenoid and increase motor speed to the high position. Furnace will remain in the second stage operation until thermostat is satisfied.

90 Second Shut Down
When the thermostat has reached its set point and the demand for heat ends, the gas valve will be de-energized and the flame will go out. The post combustion purge period of 90 seconds begins. When it times out, the blower motor output is removed,
and the blower stops.

[cavie]

If the furnace fan runs you battery if fine. Light your stovetop and let it burn for 2-3- min. All three burners.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by cavie

If the furnace fan runs you battery if fine. Light your stovetop and let it burn for 2-3- min. All three burners.

Not if the fan does not spin fast enough to close the sail switch.