|
|
11-14-2013, 08:01 PM
|
#1
|
GC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 43
|
Refrig. on propane and battery life
Any of you dry campers know how long a refrig will work running on propane and battery. Was going to let the unit sit in storage for about 12 days and didn't want to unload the refrig.
Have two full 30lb tanks and one brand new interstate battery with no way to charge it. Would not be using lights or anything else off the battery.
Thanks
__________________
GC
|
|
|
11-14-2013, 08:07 PM
|
#2
|
Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by garycarson
Any of you dry campers know how long a refrig will work running on propane and battery. Was going to let the unit sit in storage for about 12 days and didn't want to unload the refrig.
Have two full 30lb tanks and one brand new interstate battery with no way to charge it. Would not be using lights or anything else off the battery.
Thanks
|
Wouldn't worry about it. Should make it with no problem if you start with full charged battery. Propane will last for weeks as the frig door will not be opened and therefore the burner will only be on for a few minutes a day/night.
__________________
|
|
|
11-14-2013, 08:07 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1,441
|
As just posted, the propane won't be a problem. We filled the 40 pound tank on our Sunseeker in Montana and used only 5 or 6 pounds during the week driving to South Carolina.
Try this link to an earlier post about current draws. The LP/CO detector(s) will draw a little current. Since no one will be occupying unit, you could pull it out and remove the fuse.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...aws-17300.html
|
|
|
11-14-2013, 08:21 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 1,460
|
I'm assuming you've got a refrigerator with interior controls. My old one was all switches on the outside of the trailer and that thing would run off of propane forever. The auto switching ones do need battery for the controls which would probably require having all of those little lights and whatnot along with the CO detector to be running as well....I guess you might be able to pull all of the fuses to kill everything else, but the CO detector may have to be pulled out to disable it. I dry camped mine a few weeks ago and got three days before I was nearly to half of my two group 24's and I was being conservative. I think I MIGHT have made it a week with it just sitting there. I don't know if you have the battery for that long a run. I've seen several people here say the parasitic draw killed their batteries in less than three weeks when they forgot to disconnect them. Temperature could be a factor as well (it was cold when I tried). You'll have less battery capacity at lower temps.
__________________
2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ - HD tow package
2017 Rockwood 2703WS Emerald Edition
|
|
|
11-14-2013, 08:28 PM
|
#5
|
Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by raspivey
I'm assuming you've got a refrigerator with interior controls. My old one was all switches on the outside of the trailer and that thing would run off of propane forever. The auto switching ones do need battery for the controls which would probably require having all of those little lights and whatnot along with the CO detector to be running as well....I guess you might be able to pull all of the fuses to kill everything else, but the CO detector may have to be pulled out to disable it. I dry camped mine a few weeks ago and got three days before I was nearly to half of my two group 24's and I was being conservative. I think I MIGHT have made it a week with it just sitting there. I don't know if you have the battery for that long a run. I've seen several people here say the parasitic draw killed their batteries in less than three weeks when they forgot to disconnect them. Temperature could be a factor as well (it was cold when I tried). You'll have less battery capacity at lower temps.
|
Agree with the battery draw, I would pull the fuses on everything except the frig. The cold temperature should help as the frig wouldn't need to work as much.
__________________
|
|
|
11-14-2013, 10:42 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Carmel, Indiana
Posts: 309
|
You will need to check on how your gas detectors are wired. The LP & CO detectors are wired directly to the battery , at least in my TT and my buddies TT, it that way.
__________________
kz08h5
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500 Duramax Crewcab
Jeep Commander - sold
Flagstaff V-Lite WRB26
|
|
|
11-15-2013, 08:48 AM
|
#7
|
Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
|
Less than 3 weeks- I wish! My battery does from parasitic draws in under a week unless I disconnect the battery. I agree with pulling as many fuses as possible. If you can, I'd also try to check on it regularly.
I thought I'd read that someone on the seasonal thread posted about putting an ice cube in a baggy in the freeze. If it was melted or misshapen, they knew they lost power for some period of time.
__________________
Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
|
|
|
11-15-2013, 08:57 AM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kz08h5
You will need to check on how your gas detectors are wired. The LP & CO detectors are wired directly to the battery , at least in my TT and my buddies TT, it that way.
|
mine is wired the same way, I just put in a SPST switch in line, then you can shut it off when you are not using the TT. You can get 1 at Ace for like 3.00 or so. Takes 5 mins to do.
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
|
|
|
11-15-2013, 09:22 AM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
|
Gary if the (Fridg) is the Only draw for (12) days Maybe your Batt will last? I just about Guarantee your Elec.Jack will NOT have power to lift the Trailer. Make sure the T/V is wired too charge the trailer also,that way you can plug in and have 12V to power the Jack! Youroo!!
|
|
|
11-15-2013, 06:20 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 1,460
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad
Less than 3 weeks- I wish! My battery does from parasitic draws in under a week unless I disconnect the battery.
|
Still less than 3 weeks! I think I might have gotten a full week out of it with the frig and parasitics only if I didn't touch anything. That's with two batteries.
Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
I just about Guarantee your Elec.Jack will NOT have power to lift the Trailer.
|
A good point. If you run down far enough that you can't get your jack to operate, you've probably run your battery down far enough to shorten it's life. Just something to think about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
I just put in a SPST switch in line, then you can shut it off when you are not using the TT.
|
Now THIS is something I'm going to have to do shortly. Might end up doing the same thing with the radio and other extras.
__________________
2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ - HD tow package
2017 Rockwood 2703WS Emerald Edition
|
|
|
11-15-2013, 08:07 PM
|
#11
|
GC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 43
|
Thanks for replies. Sounds like it would be streching it.
__________________
GC
|
|
|
12-01-2013, 08:16 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 291
|
I left my frig running on gas Saturday, coming back the next Tuesday to stay through Thanksgiving so I left the frig on. Did not connect the 12v fans. Have two batteries that were fully charged by generators except for pulling in slides. The interior battery switch was on and the carbon monoxide / propane light was on. That is all. Tuesday afternoon when I returned the slide was very slow to open. Did not think it would open it was so slow. Hooked up generators to open other slide. I have left it for a month and never a problem with the battery switches off. Jack & slides worked well. Will look into installing a switch to cut off the carbon monoxide/ propane detector. I was surprised how low the batteries were. My batteries without a power show 2/3 on the indicator. Full with generator or shore power. What readings are normal with a full battery without external power? if it is to the full light normally on battery, I may have a problem.
__________________
2013 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
|
|
|
12-01-2013, 08:27 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brazoria County, Texas
Posts: 1,460
|
Ignore the battery indicator, they're worthless. From what I can tell, Full = charging / hooked up, 2/3 = anywhere between full and over discharged, and 1/3 = you're hurting your battery badly. You don't have a problem, that sounds about right. CO, fridge, probably radio standby if you have one....it'll hit you harder than you think. Don't leave those batteries discharged like that for any length of time if you can at all help it.
__________________
2015 Chevy Silverado LTZ - HD tow package
2017 Rockwood 2703WS Emerald Edition
|
|
|
12-01-2013, 09:01 PM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
|
I would cut the power to both your C/O with a spst switch just install between the wirier also pull the fuse for the radio or install another spst for that. It also sounds that you were not up to full charge. If you are using your converter to charge you probably only got up to 3/4 charge anyway. If you are going to this all the time, I would go with a progressive convertor with the wizard. Then you know that you will charge to 100%. Do you have a WFCO, if you do throw it away. Also check your water level in your battery's.
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
|
|
|
12-02-2013, 06:41 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 291
|
The generators had run all night because I was running the AC but they were off during the day since I was out and about. Guess there was more time without shore power than just when I left. I have checked the water several times and it never needed but a small amount. Will see about installing a switch for the detector and the radio. Never have understood why they put the stuff down on the floor. I keep a small flashlight close by just to see the panel and the switches. Looked at the Inteli-Power 55 Amp Converter/Charger Model #PD4655V web page which seems to be a direct replacement for the WFCO 55 amp. Would that one handle two batteries? The page was lacking in specifics about that. My trolling motor charger (Dual Pro) is only 15 amps per battery so I suppose 55 for two is plenty. The Wizard is built into the replacement. Not looking forward to crawling around on the floor. Too cheap to pay some goober to do it for me and screw something up. Thanks for the suggestions.
__________________
2013 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
|
|
|
12-03-2013, 03:47 AM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stank Bait
The generators had run all night because I was running the AC but they were off during the day since I was out and about. Guess there was more time without shore power than just when I left. I have checked the water several times and it never needed but a small amount. Will see about installing a switch for the detector and the radio. Never have understood why they put the stuff down on the floor. I keep a small flashlight close by just to see the panel and the switches. Looked at the Inteli-Power 55 Amp Converter/Charger Model #PD4655V web page which seems to be a direct replacement for the WFCO 55 amp. Would that one handle two batteries? The page was lacking in specifics about that. My trolling motor charger (Dual Pro) is only 15 amps per battery so I suppose 55 for two is plenty. The Wizard is built into the replacement. Not looking forward to crawling around on the floor. Too cheap to pay some goober to do it for me and screw something up. Thanks for the suggestions.
|
That's the same one I put in, you will love it. Easy to replace fits right in you will see and here the difference. I also have 2 batteries no problem at all. It also has 2 cooling fans. You can't even here them at all when running. you press the wizard button and it will start at 14.4 til 80% then drop to 13.6 til full charged then drop to 13.2 float. Every 21 hrs it will go into the 4th stage desalination at 14.4 for 15 mins. It's a true 4 stage charger. That WFCO is garbage..in comparison.........
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
|
|
|
12-03-2013, 06:04 AM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 291
|
What is the deal with the pendant? Is that just something that takes the place of the Wizard Mode Button, moves it to another location so you don't have to crawl on the floor to get to it?
__________________
2013 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
|
|
|
12-03-2013, 08:31 AM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake County, Illinois
Posts: 301
|
You could set up a small solar charger.
Joel
__________________
2011 Silverado 2500HD Duramax, 4x4, crew cab, long bed
Palomino Puma 253-FBS, 27' 5th wheel
1994 19' Class B on Chevy chassis
|
|
|
12-03-2013, 09:51 AM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stank Bait
What is the deal with the pendant? Is that just something that takes the place of the Wizard Mode Button, moves it to another location so you don't have to crawl on the floor to get to it?
|
Yes the pendent comes with another unit that will not fit in your WFCO space. When you change the board our which is just transferring wires. The button is on top and you will see a green led light on top. Buy the number of flashes per minute tells you what mode your in. I use a plug in dc meter plugged into the cigarette lighter that gives me a constant read out. For 2 years I never seen it drop to 13.2V float until I changed units mine always read 13.6V with the WFCO. That boils your water out. once you install the unit press the wizard button it will do it's thing. It will start at 14.4 to 80% then drop to 13.6 til it's 100% then it will drop to 13.2 storage or float mode. You will not have to crawl on the floor once it's set, It will takecare of it self. You can put in 14.4 charge mode if you think it needs it but the direction state let it alone and it will do it's job. It's a true 4 stage charger.
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
|
|
|
12-03-2013, 11:37 AM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 291
|
I was thinking about putting a digital voltmeter in when I put in the switches. Great idea of using the lighter plug. Just did not think about that no matter how obvious it seems.
Never have had a problem with water boiling out. Guess my charger does not put out enough to ever do that. I will hook up a meter to it next time I am over there and see what is going on with the voltage. Thanks for the info. It helps.
__________________
2013 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|