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Old 07-07-2012, 04:01 PM   #1
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Refrigerator problems??

Recently bought a new Hemisphere 31QBUD and we love it, tows easily and sets up quickly, but when you switch from propane to electric in the refrigerator temp in refrigerator sometimes rises to nearly 50 degrees. The temp in the freezer stays at 20 degrees while this is occuring. I did not encounter this problem with my Salem Lite 26BHXL. Any ideas or thoughts.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:58 PM   #2
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I would be concerned with the freezer holding at 20 degrees as well as the fridge temp nearing 50 degrees. This unit is running at a good 10-15 above normal range of food safety.

Do you switch it over from electric to propane or is it set on "auto"? Do you have any problem lighting the stove or oven? Do you have a thermometer in both the fridge & freezer?

Either way this would be on my list for the service department to fix. Your food items are in the danger zone at the temps you listed.
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:36 PM   #3
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At the dealer now for repair. It is set on auto and usually refrigerator part stays at 35 and freezer stays at 20 or below. This problem seems to occur only when the unit switches over.
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:13 PM   #4
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The good news is that its being serviced so hopefully the problem will be taken care of. Please keep us updated if you don't mind.
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:19 PM   #5
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Left out this part, after a couple of hours the temp in the refrigerator part goes back down. Yes I have thermometers in both ref and freezer.
Thanks
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:23 AM   #6
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Have a Dometic RM 1350 re.f with same issue. Dealer found no issue while testing on gas, not sure if they tested electrically. Brought home tested on gas, then swithched to elec. , looks like temp is rising again. Ice maker only cycled once overnight.?????????
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:42 PM   #7
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Dealer called just a few minutes ago he is on hold with Dometic now, will post what he finds out when he calls me back
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:12 AM   #8
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I have a Dometic RM 1350 as well that is exhibiting some of the same symptoms. The unit is cooling in the freezer and lightly cooling in the refer section. Don't have thermometers inside yet, but I know the temps are not where they should be with the unit on high and running on AC. Have not tried gas yet. I am wondering if the control board may be bad because the interior light worked at one point (after repair) and now is not working again. The big problem I have is that I have owned this brand new Cardinal for 6 months and it has been in the shop 6 times in those 6 months. I have yet to even use it to camp in. Every time that I try to use it something fails and I have to cancel my plans. Really frustrating.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:25 PM   #9
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Just. Heard from my dealer, he said that he was not able to duplicate the problem completely , but Dometic suggested that he check the trailer battery. Sure enough it was bad so he replaced it and everything seems to be working fine. I am going camping this weekend and will let you know if it is fixed.
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmontgom672
Just. Heard from my dealer, he said that he was not able to duplicate the problem completely , but Dometic suggested that he check the trailer battery. Sure enough it was bad so he replaced it and everything seems to be working fine. I am going camping this weekend and will let you know if it is fixed.
Its surprising how much a dead,bad or non existing battery will cause problems.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:51 PM   #11
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I had a problem with my A/C a few weeks ago, it would not cool properly although it was very hot outside. One of the guests at the site I was at asked me if my battery was good. As far as I knew it was good, always had been. When we checked the battery with no cables connected it only showed 8 volts, problem here. We switched the battery with one from my truck which showed 13 volts and all the problems went away. He told me he had worked at an RV place one summer and learned that the A/C and the fridge used 12 vDC for their control units, regardless if you were connected to 120 vAC. So maybe your fridge's control method uses only 12 vDC for the controller.
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