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Old 03-28-2017, 10:26 AM   #1
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RV Fridge

Have a question regarding my rv fridge. Before I go too far this rv is not a FR, but a Keystone, purchased in Feb of this year. However the rv fridges operate basically the same. Now, I had our TT in the shop for several weeks. I had turned fridge off, along with propane. I have back at home and plugged in to shore power but when I turn it on Auto, after a few seconds the igniter starts clicking, and without gas doesn't light, then the Check Light on the fridge control panel comes on. Have not had this issue with previous trailers we have owned. Anyone have suggestions? What am I missing?
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:31 AM   #2
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Light a burner on the stove to make sure you have gas flow. Once you know that you can try the refrig. again. It will only attempt three time (I think) and then go to the check light. If check light comes on turn it off and try again until refrig. starts getting propane.
When you turn on your propane open the valve "slowly".
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:41 AM   #3
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Light a burner on the stove to make sure you have gas flow. Once you know that you can try the refrig. again. It will only attempt three time (I think) and then go to the check light. If check light comes on turn it off and try again until refrig. starts getting propane.
When you turn on your propane open the valve "slowly".
and if you have pressure in the line down line from the regulator... you may need to purge before reopening the tank valve. I recommend figuring out which regulator you have and reading the manual(assuming you haven't) they can be very educational on the operations.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:45 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by bob213 View Post
Light a burner on the stove to make sure you have gas flow. Once you know that you can try the refrig. again. It will only attempt three time (I think) and then go to the check light. If check light comes on turn it off and try again until refrig. starts getting propane.
When you turn on your propane open the valve "slowly".
I believe ard58 is saying that they're trying to get the fridge to run off shore power. Correct?
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:51 AM   #5
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First...
With the fridge on 'AUTO' it will look to the 120v side of things first.
So, providing you are plugged into shore power, and if you say the refrigerator is trying to light the propane side, that would mean the refrigerator isn't seeing 120v.

Is it possible the refrigerator became unplugged at the receptacle? Maybe during the repair work?
Most have a 120v outlet near the back of the refrigerator where it simply plugs in.

The control board (also usually on the back of the refrigerator) has a couple of fuses.
One for 120v and another for the 12v side.
Check the small glass 120v fuse, it may have blown.

As for the refrigerator not lighting on propane... it should light regardless of the 120v side issues. Follow the suggestions given and report back.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:52 AM   #6
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Yes HangDiver, after rereading the OP I believe you are correct.
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Old 03-28-2017, 11:15 AM   #7
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Also check the 120VAC circuit breakers in your power panel. The shop may have turned them off (or actually tripped them) for some reason.
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Old 03-28-2017, 11:34 AM   #8
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The control board (also usually on the back of the refrigerator) has a couple of fuses.
One for 120v and another for the 12v side.
Check the small glass 120v fuse, it may have blown.
Had a similar problem with my fridge. I checked BOTH fuses, and neither had blown. However, when I check voltage across the glass fuse, it was 105, not 120. Do not know why that would occur. But the fuses were $2 for a 2 pack, what the hell, try a new fuse. Problem fixed and I now have a spare fuse

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Old 03-28-2017, 11:41 AM   #9
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Had a similar problem with my fridge. I checked BOTH fuses, and neither had blown. However, when I check voltage across the glass fuse, it was 105, not 120. Do not know why that would occur. But the fuses were $2 for a 2 pack, what the hell, try a new fuse. Problem fixed and I now have a spare fuse

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FYI, if you are reading across a fuse it should be close to 0, each end to ground should be ~12 or ~120 depending on the fuse being 12V DC or 120V AC. the 105V indicates a very poor connection in the fuse
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Old 03-28-2017, 11:45 AM   #10
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FYI, if you are reading across a fuse it should be close to 0, each end to ground should be ~12 or ~120 depending on the fuse being 12V DC or 120V AC. the 105V indicates a very poor connection in the fuse
You clearly know more about electricity than I do. I pretty much know, if you touch it, it will put you on your butt. So I try not to touch it

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Old 03-28-2017, 09:10 PM   #11
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Had a similar problem with my fridge. I checked BOTH fuses, and neither had blown. However, when I check voltage across the glass fuse, it was 105, not 120. Do not know why that would occur. But the fuses were $2 for a 2 pack, what the hell, try a new fuse. Problem fixed and I now have a spare fuse

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I'm guessing that when you say "checked" the fuse you meant you looked through the glass. The problem with these glass fuses is that they can fail in the end cap area where you can't really "see." The best way to check is to remove it and measure the resistance through it with the meter set for resistance (ohms). Good = 0 ohms, bad = infinite ohms.

There are a couple ways to check without removing it, as llr implied, but if you're not familiar with dealing with electricity, you can fry your meter or yourself; go with the removal/ohms check.
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:35 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the great info. I did find the problem. The gfi in the bathroom was tripped. Reset and fridge cold this morning.
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