Suburban Hot Water Heater Electric Switch

[Ned]

Hi - My on/off switch on the outside panel is stuck on. Any tips on how to replace the switch? Thanks

[wmtire]

It just pries out. You can use a small flat tipped screwdriver at the top or bottom to press the tabs in.


See pic here.


https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-Elem...98233075&psc=1

[nomad297]

Check out this thread:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ce-182725.html

Bruce

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Ned

Hi - My on/off switch on the outside panel is stuck on. Any tips on how to replace the switch? Thanks

Until you replace the switch, and it if it is still working in the ON position...you can just control it (turn it on/off) from the circuit breaker to the water heater inside your RV's electric panel. The circuit breaker only goes to the electric heating element side of your water heater, and the water heater will still operate on propane with this circuit breaker off.

[Thomas ho]

spray edges of switch with CRC ELECTRONIC CLEANER buy at walmart in auto section. wiggle ,spray . let it set and try again.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Thomas ho

spray edges of switch with CRC ELECTRONIC CLEANER buy at walmart in auto section. wiggle ,spray . let it set and try again.

Probably a waste of time, but I guess you never know.

I believe the switch is fried, just like so many others have done.

Bruce

[Chuck_S]

No problems with this switch in the 16 seasons of use perhaps the frequent cycling of the switch is keeping it in operation.

If your water heater is like mine you'll have to remove some of the LP piping to get at the electrical switch. Screw driver is the only exotic tool needed.

I turn the water heater on/off at the breaker as well as the switch -- Went so far as painting the tip of the breaker lever with white paint so it stands out. I engage the pin in the switch when if's in storage.

-- Chuck

[Ned]

Thanks everyone! I was able to get the switch to cycle off but don’t know if it still works. I’ve already drained the hot water heater. I’ve ordered a new switch just in case as well as a new anode. I’ve turned the heater off at the inside panel until I find out if the switch works.

[5picker]

My outside switch has been melted in the on position for about a year now. Luckily I have the two switch 120v setup.

I always carry a spare switch since the one on my last R/V burned out and I had to jumper the wires. I will replace it if it quits passing voltage.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Ned

Thanks everyone! I was able to get the switch to cycle off but don’t know if it still works. I’ve already drained the hot water heater. I’ve ordered a new switch just in case as well as a new anode. I’ve turned the heater off at the inside panel until I find out if the switch works.

Just to clarify which model Suburban water heater you may have, when you say you "turned the heater off at the inside panel", can I ask if this panel has two switches to the water heater (one for gas and one for electric).... or is there just one switch on the panel to the water heater?


I have a reason for asking this and making sure if you have the Suburban SWDE or SWDEL model.


Thanks

[5picker]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Just to clarify which model Suburban water heater you may have, when you say you "turned the heater off at the inside panel", can I ask if this panel has two switches to the water heater (one for gas and one for electric).... or is there just one switch on the panel to the water heater?


I have a reason for asking this and making sure if you have the Suburban SWDE or SWDEL model.


Thanks

Good catch wmtire.
I read "inside panel" to mean "breaker panel" but I know why you asking and if you are correct, the OP needs to know why.

[Ned]

I have the SW6DE model. There’s a switch on the control panel for the lp heating element and a circuit breaker in electrical panel for the electrical heating element, which is the one I’ve turned off.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Ned

I have the SW6DE model. There’s a switch on the control panel for the lp heating element and a circuit breaker in electrical panel for the electrical heating element, which is the one I’ve turned off.

OK Great, it's all good. Just wanted to make sure of things.


With a SWDE model, had you meant you turned off the switch at the control panel, then this switch only controls the propane/dsi mode of heating. Had you meant that switch and then drained the water heater with the outside switch on that controls the electric heating element AND was connected to any form of 120 volt AC power, then you would have burned out the electric heating element. This is why I was clarifying. Since you killed power to the electric heating element via the circuit breaker then it should all be good.


I am going to also add the tutorial link about the switches and different Suburban models (SWDE and SWDEL) for anyone in the future who may be searching our forums for a similar problem.



https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ore-36197.html

[diamondjindustries]

Had RV in last week for the annual inspection now when I set up for the weekend flipped on the switch at the hot water heater. Later tried using hot water and none went back to be sure I did flip the switch to on and it is stuck on and can’t move! Any idea what is going on?

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by diamondjindustries

Had RV in last week for the annual inspection now when I set up for the weekend flipped on the switch at the hot water heater. Later tried using hot water and none went back to be sure I did flip the switch to on and it is stuck on and can’t move! Any idea what is going on?

Follow the links provided in this thread — top to bottom — and you will probably get it worked out.

Bruce

[FirstFiver]

I had the opposite problem with my previous TT and my now fifth wheel.
Both had switches that were stuck in the "off" position.

Constant pushing of "reset", with pressure on "on/off" switch usually freed it. After that it seemed to work easily. Seems they both got stuck from lack of use.