suburban water heater model SW6DE

[RV Learning]

when I turn on the electric switch inside with the outside switch on as well water heater turns to gas operation. I started a search for the problem by checking the breaker which is good. Then I checked ohms on heating element also good. Checked inside switch and outside switch also good ohms.

Plugged into shore power and with inside switch off and outside switch on I have 120 on element and also on eco/thermostat. when I turn inside switch on it still goes to gas. I am thinking that I either have a short somewhere or the relay got bad????

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by RV Learning

when I turn on the electric switch inside with the outside switch on as well water heater turns to gas operation. I started a search for the problem by checking the breaker which is good. Then I checked ohms on heating element also good. Checked inside switch and outside switch also good ohms.

Plugged into shore power and with inside switch off and outside switch on I have 120 on element and also on eco/thermostat. when I turn inside switch on it still goes to gas. I am thinking that I either have a short somewhere or the relay got bad????

Let's see a pic of your control panel. Chances are the inside switch is only for propane. My trailer's outside switch is for electric use and the inside switch is for propane only.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by RV Learning

when I turn on the electric switch inside with the outside switch on as well water heater turns to gas operation. I started a search for the problem by checking the breaker which is good. Then I checked ohms on heating element also good. Checked inside switch and outside switch also good ohms.

Plugged into shore power and with inside switch off and outside switch on I have 120 on element and also on eco/thermostat. when I turn inside switch on it still goes to gas. I am thinking that I either have a short somewhere or the relay got bad????

Nothing is wrong with the water heater. The SW6DE model as per your thread title only has an inside switch for the propane/DSI only. The switch for the electric heating element is on the face of the water heater. You can turn both on at the same time for simultaneous modes of heating..


This thread link below will explain how to operate the SW6DE & SW6DEL water heaters.


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...tml#post327988


Let us know if you have any further questions after reading the link. You are chasing a non existent problem. Once you gain an understanding of how the 2 independent switches/heating modes work, it's all going to be good.

[wmtire]

This thread may also help and is aimed at new RV owners. It will have links to some of the more FAQ things encountered by new owners, like how to operate the Suburban water heaters.


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ts-157524.html


Welcome aboard.

[Chuck_S]

On my olde Roo there is no "inside" switch for 120vAC operation just the circuit breaker and the outside switch in the lower left corner of the water heater panel. Inside switch is for propane and it has an indicator light that will go out when the water heater fires up. If the water is already hot neither will turn on.

This is mine:



I'd prefer a switch like this but getting around to wiring it is the issue.



-- Chuck

[NavyLCDR]

And for those with the inside switch for the electric side, it is actually a 12 v DC switch that energizes a relay (also 12 v DC on the control side), which then closes to connect 120 v AC to the heating element.

[Chuck_S]

My popup had a propane-only water heater and I thought my Roo was the same for the first couple weekends. Then I found the outside switch that had been safety pinned Off. I still use that pin when the camper goes in storage. Only requires one time connecting to shorepower with the water heater empty and the electrical switches On. Every RV dealer in the country has these High-Use parts in stock.

-- Chuck

[Mandog]

I have the same heater. The inside switch is for gas only. Even with the outside electric switch on the gas will run a few minutes to satisfy thermostat.

[RV Learning]

Thank you all for the replies, I located the problem with a burned contact on the control board. It was allowing the gas to over ride the electric. I have two switches inside, one is gas and one is electric. if the outside switch is off the electric will not work. Both electric switches must be on for it to work correctly. I ordered a new dinosaur board and will replace the bad board shortly.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by RV Learning

Thank you all for the replies, I located the problem with a burned contact on the control board. It was allowing the gas to over ride the electric. I have two switches inside, one is gas and one is electric. if the outside switch is off the electric will not work. Both electric switches must be on for it to work correctly. I ordered a new dinosaur board and will replace the bad board shortly.

Mmmmm, I don't think so, or you are not accurately describing the problem. You stated in your first post title that you had a SWDE model. If you do indeed have two switches for the electric element, then you "should" have a SWDEL model.

Also, the module board has no effect whatsoever on the electric heating element. The module board ONLY controls the gas/DSI mode of heating for the water heater. Are you now saying it's the gas portion of the water heater that does not work?

See schematic below:

[kermitvb]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

Let's see a pic of your control panel. Chances are the inside switch is only for propane. My trailer's outside switch is for electric use and the inside switch is for propane only.

Ditto what Mr Dan says. My 305ML6 is the same way.

[BGilleland]

Our heater is a SW6-DELC (have not seen anything about the "C").
The propane side works fine. The AC does not work at all. I have reviewed the Forum's 6-post Suburban heater thread and this one, too.

Our camper is a 2021 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BRDS that we recently acquired. The previous owners said the "gas side was much better than the electric side".
Our previous FR Surveyor had the "inside gas/outside electric switch setup". This one has both gas and electric on the inside panel and the outside electric switch.

I am a "first grade" electrician. There is power to the plug where the AC cord plugs in. The inside switch lights up when it's turned on (it is DC; light went off when I pulled the Converter fuse). What I am finding is no power on the hot side of the heater mounted switch (this switch is OK). I have continuity from the cold side of the switch all the way to the white wire on the element. I actually pulled the element just to make sure it was ok; it was. I got a friend who is a little smarter than me to take a look and he thinks it might be the relay shown on the schematic as he believes it is controlled by the inside switch. Question now is "where is relay?" It's either in the AC box shown on Manual or behind the outside panel. The AC Box is on the far side of the inside access; I can put my hand on it, but that's all. If it's down behind outside panel, I don't feel comfortable about pulling all that off. I figure an RV service provider would take at least 2 hrs to pull the panel, repair it, and it all put back in and sealed, probably close to $400 these days. I'm at the point of saying "to heck with AC, we'll just stick with gas". It would take a lot of propane to reach $400, even at today's prices.

So, any other suggestions of things to check before I give up?
Thanks!

[NavyLCDR]

This picture from e-bay indicates it is inside the AC junction box:

[Chuck_S]

Looks like a $13 part. And in stock so many places there must be a demand for it.

As noted there's a junction box somewhere behind the water heater where the relay resides. Access will be easy -- or impossible -- depending on your camper.

-- Chuck

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

This picture from e-bay indicates it is inside the AC junction box:

Attachment 276502

As NavyLCDR correctly pointed out, the relay to these is located in the AC junction box (not to be confused with the separate DC junction box)

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by BGilleland

Our heater is a SW6-DELC (have not seen anything about the "C").

The C usually means it has a power Cord.

D= Direct Spark ignition
E= Electric heating element (120 volt)
L= 12v/120v Relay (which allows the addition of 12 volt actuated electric element switch inside the RV panel)
C= 120 volt AC Cord