Suburban water heater question (2018 RW A213HHWESP)

[telecide]

I'm replacing the controller board for the 6 gal Suburban (SW6D) in our 2018 Rockwood A213HHWESP. My question is if there's some reason that the board is not secured as originally mounted in the unit? Essentially, the board just sits inside its plastic housing and the housing is screwed to a cross-brace under the dinette bench. This allows the board to just freely move around in its plastic housing and is probably why the board is intermittently failing. (did all the troubleshooting and the controller board is the likely candidate). So I just want to know if the board is not mounted for some reason. I plan to secure the board with a cover before mounting to the cross-brace.

[Johnfort]

The problem is not the bouncing, though it probably doesn't help. It's the poor quality of the board. You'll probably find a burned spot in the middle of the board. Be sure to replace it with a Dinosaur brand board from Amazon.

[Johnfort]

https://www.amazon.com/Dinosaur-Elec...2943932&sr=8-6

[telecide]

Originally Posted by Johnfort

https://www.amazon.com/Dinosaur-Elec...2943932&sr=8-6

Thanks!

[Johnfort]

Also, if you plan to go from 6000' and up, you'll want to change the orifice too.

[telecide]

Originally Posted by Johnfort

Also, if you plan to go from 6000' and up, you'll want to change the orifice too.

Thanks again!

[Villagerjjm]

I bought the replacement board from Dinosaur and I also included the replacement cover from Dinosaur. The two combined together are easily mounted and secure with no bouncing around.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Johnfort

Also, if you plan to go from 6000' and up, you'll want to change the orifice too.

Not needed and not recommended . water heater will work fine on gas up to 10,000' which is the highest i've camped . whatever you do do not change the orifice . one can always open the damper if needed to allow more air in

[Johnfort]

Sometimes water heaters are affected............Suburban even has statements about derating above 4500'
HIGH ALTITUDE DERATION
Suburban’s water heaters are certified by nationally recognized testing laboratories for operation without modifications at altitudes up to 4,500 feet. Operation above this elevation may require derating by 4 percent for every 1,000 feet above sea level.

Derating is done by changing orifice ----Suburban uses a #61 orifice/12,000 btu flow rating with FIX air inlet
So 4000' change in altitude would need a #64 orifice/10,000 btu.


I put a #65 in mine for 5000' and up.

[MR.M]

considering 100's if not thousands use their campers from sea level to up to 10,000 ft without changing orifice's it's not a high priority . Never had an issue in 30 yrs of camping between 7000 and 10000 ft with operation of gas appliances . doesn't mean it would not help but is not needed

[Johnfort]

And for those low probability folks that get a functioning WH at high altitude, it's pretty nice. Even if you don't think they need it.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Johnfort

And for those low probability folks that get a functioning WH at high altitude, it's pretty nice. Even if you don't think they need it.

That's a garbage statement ! majority have 0 issues period meaning 99.9% .
But if it makes you feel better change out the orifice . don't forget the furnace , fridge , stove , better cover all your bases

[Johnfort]

Is there a problem here?

[Johnfort]

Sorry if I offended you with my personal opinion.

[HangDiver]

I've run my 6-gallon Suburban water heater while camping at 11,260ft with no issues.

[pgandw]

Gas, propane, and natural gas burners tend to run a little to quite rich at altitude, depending on engineering. Changing the orifice or the jet can bring the burner back towards the optimum mixture, but does little to bring back the BTUs lost due to reduced oxygen. Get used to the effects of reduced burner heat at altitude - longer recovery time for a water heater, slower cooling of a propane fridge, even reduced maximum power available in your non-turbo tow vehicle.

Whether or not you want to rejet or change orifices is up to you. Some factors to consider: How often do you change altitude? How poorly does the device run/work at altitude? Time and difficulty to make the change-over? Again, rejetting or changing orifices can correct mixture, which only changes power/heat output by a small percentage.

That's the way God made the Earth.

Fred W
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time