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Old 01-09-2021, 01:41 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Eagle-751 View Post
You guys should look into the tankless heaters, if you do, you will never go back to a water tank. I can shower all day long and the temp never changes. Trust me, if you get one, you will wish you did it years ago.
Can the tankless heater work solely on electricity? I thought I wanted a tankless, but since we got our gas/electric 6 gallon tank water heater in 2019, we have not once needed to burn our propane to heat water. Instead, we use the electricity we already paid for at the campground. If the tankless can’t run on electricity only, I wouldn’t want one.
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Old 01-09-2021, 02:07 PM   #22
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This has always happened to me when the outside temps are COLD.

When camping in cold weather with full hookups I keep the FW Tank full and take my showers with City Water off and Pump on. Water from the FW tank is usually a lot warmer than what comes through the hose from the faucet/hydrant. If it's real cold I turn on tank heaters and only use the city water hose to keep the tank filled as needed.
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Old 01-09-2021, 06:21 PM   #23
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I've heard very different opinions from people that aren't using hook ups. If you're constantly turning the flow of water on and off while taking a "Navy Shower" the tankless are not very good due to constant temperature changes.
Yes Sir, that is true, they are not made for the on and off like a tank heater. They are for those of us who like to take long hot showers.
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Old 01-09-2021, 06:25 PM   #24
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Can the tankless heater work solely on electricity? I thought I wanted a tankless, but since we got our gas/electric 6 gallon tank water heater in 2019, we have not once needed to burn our propane to heat water. Instead, we use the electricity we already paid for at the campground. If the tankless can’t run on electricity only, I wouldn’t want one.

No Sir, none that i have seen ever worked on electric, they work only on LP gas, 12V for the electronic igniter and fan. No 120V nowhere. Sorry.
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Old 01-09-2021, 07:42 PM   #25
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Tankless electric water heater.
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Old 01-09-2021, 07:48 PM   #26
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Dont forget that every ounce of hot water that leaves the tank is replaced with an ounce of cold water.

I am just making up numbers to illustrate my point, none of the following is scientific in any way. Lets say you have 6 gallons of water in the water heater, and the water temp is 135 degrees. If you turn on the hot water and fill a one gallon bucket, you have now replaced a gallon of 135 degree water with a gallon of 50 degree water (or colder). That will drop the 6 gallons down to (again, making it up) 120 degrees. Now dump another gallon of hot, which is replaced with another gallon of cold. Now you have 6 gallons of water that is 105 degrees... I made those numbers up, because I dont know what the exact measurement is, but that is the gist of how it works. The same thing happens to me at home. If I turn on the hot water in my basement bathroom (water heater is on the other side of the wall down there, so I can actually hear it), around the time that the water starts coming out of the faucet hot, I hear the water heater kick on (its a gas water heater). The reason I hear it kick on is because hot water has left the tank, probably a half gallon of water (maybe less), which was replaced by cold water, and that half gallon of cold water is enough to lower the temp of the entire tank (80 gallons) for the thermostat to tell it to fire up to heat the water. If that happens at home with an 80 gallon tank, imagine how dramatic it will be when you shrink the tank to 6 gallons.
This is one of those things that is partially true, and sounds completely plausible, but it's not really accurate as presented.

Water heaters are designed so that cold water enters at the bottom of the tank, and hot water exits at the top. The cold water is not supposed to *mix* with the existing hot water.

In your home heater, the cold side enters through the top, but is directed to the bottom through a plastic "dip tube". In theory, if you start out with a 50 gal water heater filled with 50 gallons of 135* water, you should be able to get at least 40 gallons of water at very close to that temperature. As the new cold water enters, it "lifts" the remaining hot water toward the outflow pipe. At the same time, the burner is at the bottom, so the new cold water is being heated first.

In the RV water heater, the cold water enters at the bottom of the tank, usually directly opposite the port for the anode rod. If you pull out the anode and look with a flashlight, you may see a diverter on the inlet that aims the incoming water downward to achieve a similar result.

So, in a properly working system, there would be *some* heat transfer between the hot and cold layers, but it should be limited in scope, and the effect should not be as pronounced as you describe.
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Old 01-10-2021, 04:50 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Qwkynuf View Post
This is one of those things that is partially true, and sounds completely plausible, but it's not really accurate as presented.

Water heaters are designed so that cold water enters at the bottom of the tank, and hot water exits at the top. The cold water is not supposed to *mix* with the existing hot water.

In your home heater, the cold side enters through the top, but is directed to the bottom through a plastic "dip tube". In theory, if you start out with a 50 gal water heater filled with 50 gallons of 135* water, you should be able to get at least 40 gallons of water at very close to that temperature. As the new cold water enters, it "lifts" the remaining hot water toward the outflow pipe. At the same time, the burner is at the bottom, so the new cold water is being heated first.

In the RV water heater, the cold water enters at the bottom of the tank, usually directly opposite the port for the anode rod. If you pull out the anode and look with a flashlight, you may see a diverter on the inlet that aims the incoming water downward to achieve a similar result.

So, in a properly working system, there would be *some* heat transfer between the hot and cold layers, but it should be limited in scope, and the effect should not be as pronounced as you describe.
I have been dealing with water heaters my entire adult life and I couldn’t have explained it better myself, and my summation would have been exactly the same as yours.

Well done!

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Old 01-10-2021, 08:10 AM   #28
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I have a 2021 Forest River Flagstaff super light 26FKBS. When we first got it hot water seem to last long enough to take a semi-decent shower. Last three or four days not doing that. Running out of hot water and what seems to be a very fast period of time. This happens on both electric and gas heat. I know it’s only 6 gallons but I figure if the electric has been on all night it should give me 6 gallons of hot water, it’s not. If anybody’s run into the same situation love to have some input. We’re relative newbies.
You said 3-4 days OK,now not! Which way is your "Shower Miser Valve" turned? Is it completely off? Youroo!!
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Old 01-10-2021, 08:14 AM   #29
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Some input and follow-up from the OP would be nice about now.

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Old 01-10-2021, 09:15 AM   #30
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The OP has probably taken all the info here from the experts, figured out how to really understand the usage of his water heater, and is still enjoying his hot shower. He hasn’t been back since posting.

You may not hear back until they’re beyond pruny!
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Old 01-11-2021, 08:01 PM   #31
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I just got my Flagstaff back from dealer with same issue. I was told thh it at one of the switches on the water heater had tripped that was the problem. I will know soon if they were right. I always conserve the hot water by using the water flow switch on the shower head.
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Old 01-11-2021, 08:05 PM   #32
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I just got my Flagstaff back from dealer with same issue. I was told thh it at one of the switches on the water heater had tripped that was the problem. I will know soon if they were right. I always conserve the hot water by using the water flow switch on the shower head.
It will be interesting... I've never heard of any switch on the water heater 'tripping'.

Maybe a breaker in the power distribution box but switches 'on' the water heater are rocker switches. They don't 'trip' unless you manually move them.
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Old 01-11-2021, 08:44 PM   #33
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It will be interesting... I've never heard of any switch on the water heater 'tripping'.

Maybe a breaker in the power distribution box but switches 'on' the water heater are rocker switches. They don't 'trip' unless you manually move them.
If a suburban brand water heater, they could be referring to the ECO/hi-limit thermostat tripping. They are explained here:


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...de-135974.html
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Old 01-11-2021, 08:45 PM   #34
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It will be interesting... I've never heard of any switch on the water heater 'tripping'.

Maybe a breaker in the power distribution box but switches 'on' the water heater are rocker switches. They don't 'trip' unless you manually move them.

My suburban has a hi-limit safety switch behind the outside cover, mounted to the back of the water heater that can trip and need reset.
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Old 01-11-2021, 08:53 PM   #35
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Cold Water Temp

I use electric and propane in late fall and winter to counter colder water temp from "city" line.
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Old 01-11-2021, 09:05 PM   #36
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If a suburban brand water heater, they could be referring to the ECO/hi-limit thermostat tripping. They are explained here:


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...de-135974.html
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Originally Posted by phipps33 View Post
My suburban has a hi-limit safety switch behind the outside cover, mounted to the back of the water heater that can trip and need reset.
You guys are absolutely correct... I overlooked those. My apologies.
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Old 01-12-2021, 12:16 AM   #37
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Water Heater consideration

While it is true that 6 gallons of hot water is not a great amount, it is true that it should provide enough hot water to take a shower with water saving technique.As one uses hot water it is true that cold water replaces the hot as the water is used.
What does NOT happen it that the cold water mixes with the hot and makes the output cooler.
The cold water forms a thermal layer and stays at the bottom of the tank while the hot water is drawn out from the top. In effect you will really get nearly 6 gallons of constant hot water until the hot water is used up.
Over time the water layers will mix and you can have hot water again as the heater reheats. In my unit that takes about 15 minutes.
My wife takes a shower, then I wait 15 minutes and then take my shower. If in going to do dishes I wait again and then have pleanty of water for that task.
With patience and reasonable conservation, you should be happy with a 6 gallon hot water tank.
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Old 01-12-2021, 01:22 AM   #38
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Old 01-12-2021, 12:13 PM   #39
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Hot water running out

Our hot water will scald you ( almost ) so I can use a little bit of hot and a lot of cold to get the mix right. I can take a shower without turning the shower off. Wife can take one right after me. Might check your thermostat. Could be cut down way low. Probably can'T go too hot, but maybe can jack it up a little.
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Old 01-12-2021, 05:37 PM   #40
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Our hot water will scald you ( almost ) so I can use a little bit of hot and a lot of cold to get the mix right. I can take a shower without turning the shower off. Wife can take one right after me. Might check your thermostat. Could be cut down way low. Probably can'T go too hot, but maybe can jack it up a little.
Is your water tank thermostat adjustable?
I've not seen those. Could you post a make/model #?
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