Trouble shooting water heater

[Brinkmef]

2017 Georgetown 370XL
Suburban SW6DE
About 3 days ago, my water heater stopped working by electric. Thankfully it still works on propane.
I checked resistance across the heating element and got 9.5 ohms. I also measured continuity across the T-stat.
I measured 115 volts at the wire coming out the back of the circuit breaker. Breaker was not tripped.
The simple wiring diagram from Suburban shows power going from the on/off switch to the T-stat and then to the heating element. I checked voltage at the stat and didn’t get anything. So what I am finding is there is voltage at the breaker but not coming from from the switch.
The switch could be bad or a connection could have come loose. Either way, it looks like I need to open the side panel to get to the water heater, not something I’m looking forward to. Has anybody out there have other ideas I could try first or advice on opening the panel?
Thank you.

[bubbles]

You could check for power to the switch. The switch will come out the front of the heater you just have to get a small screw driver to compress the tabs on either the top of the switch or the bottom. Open the breaker before pulling the switch. They are known for going bad at times from heat. You might also be able to look at the backside of the heater through the winterization bypass valves access hatch. My electric side is connected with just twist on wire nuts and yours may be also. Worth a shot. Here's a picture showing the switch tabs:

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by bubbles

The switch will come out the front of the heater you just have to get a small screw driver to compress the tabs on either the top of the switch or the bottom. Open the breaker before pulling the switch. They are known for going bad at times from heat. Worth a shot. Here's a picture showing the tabs:

Yep... I had to replace mine this summer.

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

Yep... I had to replace mine this summer.

Yup.....me too, but a couple of summers ago.

[A32Deuce]

Had the high limit go bad and w feed wire go bad. Replaced the limit with 140d and a new wire. All working better! More hot water on elec.

[Cabinfever97]

I had a bad switch on previous TT. Quick test for switch is carefully jump the wires around the switch.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Cabinfever97

I had a bad switch on previous TT. Quick test for switch is carefully jump the wires around the switch.

I did this... turned off the WH’s breaker, jumped around the switch and black-taped the connections, flipped the breaker back on. Hot Water! I left the jumper in place until I got my new switch.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Brinkmef

2017 Georgetown 370XL
Suburban SW6DE
About 3 days ago, my water heater stopped working by electric. Thankfully it still works on propane.
I checked resistance across the heating element and got 9.5 ohms. I also measured continuity across the T-stat.
I measured 115 volts at the wire coming out the back of the circuit breaker. Breaker was not tripped.
The simple wiring diagram from Suburban shows power going from the on/off switch to the T-stat and then to the heating element. I checked voltage at the stat and didn’t get anything. So what I am finding is there is voltage at the breaker but not coming from from the switch.
The switch could be bad or a connection could have come loose. Either way, it looks like I need to open the side panel to get to the water heater, not something I’m looking forward to. Has anybody out there have other ideas I could try first or advice on opening the panel?
Thank you.

Nothing in this post says that you have either:
--Tried resetting the high limit switch
--Checked for continuity across the high limit switch

On the outside access, there are two rubber caps, high on the heater tank (Think of Mickey Mouse's eyes). One covers the propane high limit switch. The other covers the electrical high limit switch. You do not have to remove these caps. Press firmly in the center of each cap. You can hear/feel if it resets. You can remove the caps and check continuity if necessary.

From your description, it's not clear if you actually checked continuity across the switch, or looked for 120 VAC. And if you were looking for 120 VAC, did you check BOTH terminals. 120 VAC on one side only, with the switch on, indicates the switch has failed.

[MR.M]

The surburban switches sure do burn up . had that happen to me last yr . Solution get rid of switch , install inside lighted switch for water heater and no more issues nor do i need to worry about another switch melting .

[Chuck_S]

Surprised to learn of switch issues, our 2005-built Suburban SW6DE has never malfunctioned. Only time it failed to heat water in the electric mode was when I tried to heat water when there was no water in the tank! Electric coil inside the tank vaporized instantly. Local hardware store had the element as will every RV dealer as they're "high use parts."

I only turn the external switch Off when the trailer is winterized. I use the safety clip as well, just to nor repeat my error. I throw the circuit breaker on the panel as well.

-- Chuck

[MOODMAN]

Why do you want to shoot your water heater? But if you're having trouble shooting it, try a bigger bullet! ����

[Brinkmef]

Thank you everyone. I replaced the switch this afternoon and the water heater is working great again. Tested the old switch and it was bad. It is good to be back on electric hot water again. Need to save the propane for the furnaces.
The only hitch was when picking up the new switch, the dealer had a really good deal on a 2019 Dutch Star. Think I need to take a cold shower now.

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by bubbles

You could check for power to the switch. They are known for going bad at times from heat.

Mine did. It is stuck in the "on" position so I unplug the supply cord to turn off.

[Theo]

I’m with MOODMAN. Painting it white for visibility might help...