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Old 12-02-2021, 04:18 PM   #1
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winterizing Dometic Ice Maker in 2017 Forester Motor Home

Can not find any info in how to winterize the ice maker in the freezer of a Dometic rm1350 refrigerator in the Forester Motor Home. Any one know how to do this. There is no button to push and no holes to insert a jump wire into. Only thing I can figure out is fill the potable water with some antifreeze and run the pump many times. Let me know if you know. Can send pics of what this ice maker looks like if necessary. Can also respond directly to normarendt@gmail.com
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Old 12-02-2021, 04:42 PM   #2
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From outside I think if you disconnect all the tubing from the water valve (solenoid) and allow the residual water to run out that should do it. If any water is left in the ice maker ice molds that would not be an issue. If you have water through the door the water tank can be removed (couple screws) and water connection disconnected and emptied. I think the owner's manual says to have a "professional" do the winterization. Yeah sure.
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Old 12-02-2021, 04:51 PM   #3
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there is no water through the door just the ice maker. The refrigerator is built in and the outside compartment has no removable lines of any kind. Only thing we can think of is to fill potable water with some anti freeze and force pump it through the lines but that does not seem to work.
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Old 12-02-2021, 05:07 PM   #4
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From the outside access you can see the water valve. Remove the two wires (1/4 faston connectors) and run 120vac to these two terminals. That will open the water valve and allow water or antifreeze to flow into the ice maker mold. Do not leave it energized for more than about 30 seconds at a time to prevent overheating of the valve.
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Old 12-02-2021, 06:02 PM   #5
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X2 what Steve-W said. I do the exact procedure. Just remember it's 120 volts you are dealing with.
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Old 12-02-2021, 06:13 PM   #6
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And you don't have a valve similar to this outside?
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Old 12-02-2021, 06:56 PM   #7
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Yes, I have the same water valve. The solenoid connections are what you attached the 120 volts to. As Steve-W mentioned only run it for a 20-30 seconds at a time. Antifreeze will flow through the valve into the ice mold and be caught by the ice cube tray. Ice mold will not the damaged as it is supposed to freeze but the water valve will freeze if water is left in it. See attached photos. I made the cord to apply the 120 volts to the prongs.
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Old 12-02-2021, 08:50 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by UpstateTiger View Post
Yes, I have the same water valve. The solenoid connections are what you attached the 120 volts to. As Steve-W mentioned only run it for a 20-30 seconds at a time. Antifreeze will flow through the valve into the ice mold and be caught by the ice cube tray. Ice mold will not the damaged as it is supposed to freeze but the water valve will freeze if water is left in it. See attached photos. I made the cord to apply the 120 volts to the prongs.
The ole suicide cord I went a step further and had a inline switch on mine.
Always have had one on my bench with alligator clips for various testing needs.
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Old 12-03-2021, 10:51 AM   #9
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Alternatively...

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From the outside access you can see the water valve. Remove the two wires (1/4 faston connectors) and run 120vac to these two terminals. That will open the water valve and allow water or antifreeze to flow into the ice maker mold. Do not leave it energized for more than about 30 seconds at a time to prevent overheating of the valve.
Alternatively...
  • Disconnect both lines from the valve.
  • The line going up to the icemaker will drain by gravity.
  • Turn on the water pump for a second or two and potable antifreeze will run out. If you do this as your last step in winterizing, you can leave this line disconnected all winter. In the spring, you can run clear water through it before reconnecting and de-winterizing the rest of the trailer.
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Old 12-03-2021, 09:50 PM   #10
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no nothing that looks like that.
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Old 12-03-2021, 09:51 PM   #11
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nothing in my motor home compartment looks like this at all.
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Old 12-03-2021, 10:42 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by njarendt View Post
nothing in my motor home compartment looks like this at all.
I am not familiar with a Dometic model 1350 with ice maker that does not have the solenoid shown in the outside access hatch. There are typically letters following the 1350 denoting the specific model. Your fridge is a 4 door correct. Is it mounted with the back against an outside wall? Perhaps a picture inside the access hatch would help; if there is one.
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Old 12-04-2021, 01:17 PM   #13
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Old 12-04-2021, 01:19 PM   #14
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1350 built in

totally built in except for this access panel. No business or person close enough to do the winterizing for us any more. Most likely if I can not figure this out will have the refrigerator removed and one with no ice maker installed. This is a big hassle and do not recommend ice makers to anyone.
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Old 12-04-2021, 01:50 PM   #15
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Norm, Norm: hold up. That is not a residential refrigerator. That's an absorption-type propane refrigerator--first one I've ever seen that has an ice maker. Everyone has been giving instructions for a residential compression-type refrigerator.

Poking around, it appears to be a DM 2872 or DM 2882 unit. They cost nearly $3000.

There have been three threads on this forum regarding winterizing them.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...on-220416.html

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...er-117593.html

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...er-195073.html

One suggestion, from back in 2016 is:
Blow out all of the water lines by turning on the faucets and letting the water come out, just like you do for general winterizing. LEAVE THE COMPRESSOR ATTACHED for 24 hours and leave the icemaker on. It will cycle on its own and eventually clear all of the water from the lines and icemaker.
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Old 12-04-2021, 02:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
Everyone has been giving instructions for a residential compression-type refrigerator
Everyone's had suggestions for a Dometic 1350 (non residential) fridge (I have one). This is the valve and water line for the ice maker that everyone has referenced. The OP insists it isn't there. This is the photo the OP provided of his fridge. There is another tube attachment just like this one on the other side of the valve.
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Old 12-04-2021, 02:36 PM   #17
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No it is a Dometic RM1350 MIMBSX electric and propane refrigerator. Attached the name plate photo. I do appreciate all the help as at my age it is a challenge to do this stuff.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-04-2021, 03:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles View Post
Everyone's had suggestions for a Dometic 1350 (non residential) fridge (I have one). This is the valve and water line for the ice maker that everyone has referenced. The OP insists it isn't there. This is the photo the OP provided of his fridge. There is another tube attachment just like this one on the other side of the valve.
Thats the water valve that bubbles circled. The 120vac wires are the two white/translucent connectors. They are insulated 1/4” faston connectors. Grab the white insulator and pull while rocking a bit side to side towards you.
See my previous post #4 for the procedure.
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Old 12-04-2021, 03:39 PM   #19
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Oops.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles View Post
Everyone's had suggestions for a Dometic 1350 (non residential) fridge (I have one). This is the valve and water line for the ice maker that everyone has referenced. The OP insists it isn't there. This is the photo the OP provided of his fridge. There is another tube attachment just like this one on the other side of the valve.
My bad. The suggestions were valid for both types of refrigerators. Having never seen an absorption refrigerator with an icemaker, I imposed a false limitation.

Clearly, either hot-wiring the valve or leaving compressed air on the system until it cycles will serve to clear the system.
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