2 1-/2" to 2" receiver - which way is right?

[Gealousy]

Hey all!

After towing with the Tahoe we decided to upgrade our TV. Went with a Sierra 2500 (6.0l I could not afford the diesel GRIN).

It comes with the 2 1/2 inch hitch and the whole set up I have is for a 2 inch.

First, I tried to find an OEM reducer but I kept coming up empty so I purchased this one. I believe it's a Reese (already took the sticker off so I don't remember but I'm 98% sure).

I already know it's going to be a pain in the butt putting the hitch in. That said I can't find any good information about how to do this properly. 1 or 2? Third pic is just the reducer for reference.

1:


2:


Reducer:


I would think number one because within the hitch the reducer is making surface contact fully and thus creating a better mounting surface for the hitch but I can see number 2 making sense too. There's a poop joke in there somewhere.

But I just want to make sure I'm doing this right so I figured I would check with you all.

New TV just for fun:


Thanks in advance,

Nick

[rsdata]

I do not think it matters which way it goes in... whatever is easier for you. I would put a small amount of JB Weld epoxy to fasten the sleeve to the original shank so that you do NOT have two holes to line up constantly. If you put the JB Weld on the top edge, you can always use a grinder on the bead of epoxy to remove it should you need to separate the two at some point.

[W5CI]

All new trucks come with that adapter, if you didn't get one I would ask Dealer for it, it should be in glove compartment or under rear seat. Have you looked for it?

[rockfordroo]

My Silverado 2500 (twin to your Sierra) came with one that fits a lot better than the aftermarket ones. If you bought the Sierra new, you should have gotten one; if you didn't, you should complain to your dealer. If you bought used, you should be able buy one from any GM dealer. Or, here's one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-15923.../dp/B00F675AWU

All that being said, etrailer.com shows one that looks like yours installed like your pic #2:

https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces...ese/58102.html

[Gealousy]

Originally Posted by W5CI

All new trucks come with that adapter, if you didn't get one I would ask Dealer for it, it should be in glove compartment or under rear seat. Have you looked for it?

Well, it's not new, it's a 2013 but, I know it's not in the glove box. That said I guess I haven't looked under the front seats but I know it's not under the rear in the crew cab.

[Gealousy]

Originally Posted by rsdata

I do not think it matters which way it goes in... whatever is easier for you. I would put a small amount of JB Weld epoxy to fasten the sleeve to the original shank so that you do NOT have two holes to line up constantly. If you put the JB Weld on the top edge, you can always use a grinder on the bead of epoxy to remove it should you need to separate the two at some point.

JB is a good idea. Used the stuff in the past but hadn't thought of that. I thought of a strip of electrical tape to get it close then a long screwdriver to get it aligned but a semi-permanent solution would be better!

[oxcamper]

My Sierra 2500 came with the GM adaptor, which has a flange on one face and goes into the 2" mount all the way, providing support for the entire length of the hitch. They're about $60 at GM dealer.
That said, I would opt for #1.
However for the life of me, I don't understand why GM would put 2 1/2" receivers on non commercial trucks as standard.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Gealousy

Well, it's not new, it's a 2013 but, I know it's not in the glove box. That said I guess I haven't looked under the front seats but I know it's not under the rear in the crew cab.

I'm guessing the previous owner lost it. Folks tend to pull out the 2" drawbar or WDH and forget to remove the reducer. Then they drive off and it falls out somewhere down the road.

[RJHuser]

I would do one of the following:
1.) Go to GMC or Chevy dealer and get the adapter GM originally supplied with the truck;

2.) Place the adaptor in your hitch so it is flush to its end, mark the pin hole on the adapter, and drill new holes for the pin.

Based on my experience, it is better to have the draw bar supported the longest length in the reciever.

The best thing would be to buy a new 2-1/2" draw bar. Any adapter will cause a loose fit of the draw bar in the reciever, resulting in the draw bar moving up/down, right/left which can cause increased sway.

Rick

[Gealousy]

Originally Posted by oxcamper

My Sierra 2500 came with the GM adaptor, which has a flange on one face and goes into the 2" mount all the way, providing support for the entire length of the hitch. They're about $60 at GM dealer.
That said, I would opt for #1.
However for the life of me, I don't understand why GM would put 2 1/2" receivers on non commercial trucks as standard.

Right. I think with the crew cab in the 6.0l slt I'm good for 9,400. Not sure it warrants a 2-1/2". Pay load is appx 1,500 so maybe they are expecting a seriously short but heavy trailer? I do not have a 4.10 diff either so maybe that's the prob.

[ktj]

Hi Gealousy,

Have you hooked everything up with your new TV already?

The reason I ask is I just upgraded to a 350 that also has a 2.5 receiver and made sure I got the adapter. It was definitely a pain in the butt. Once I hooked everything up, I found that, with the new TV sitting significantly higher than the previous, I needed to switch to a longer drop shank anyway. At that time, I just made the switch to 2.5

[Gealousy]

Originally Posted by ktj

Hi Gealousy,

Have you hooked everything up with your new TV already?

The reason I ask is I just upgraded to a 350 that also has a 2.5 receiver and made sure I got the adapter. It was definitely a pain in the butt. Once I hooked everything up, I found that, with the new TV sitting significantly higher than the previous, I needed to switch to a longer drop shank anyway. At that time, I just made the switch to 2.5

No just got the truck a week ago. I'm going down this weekend to check everything, (next trip is the following weekend). Believe it or not (we still have the Tahoe) the 2500HD hitch actually measures within an inch of the Tahoe, actually to the lower! Probably because the Tahoe was designed to sag more. I'll eventually just make the 2.5 switch I'd guess just can't do it for this next trip. That said I don't want to be unsafe either so if it's necessary that's another thing. Towing a 7,000 gvw so not sure! I'm a newb here thus reaching out to you fine folks.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Gealousy

Right. I think with the crew cab in the 6.0l slt I'm good for 9,400. Not sure it warrants a 2-1/2". Pay load is appx 1,500 so maybe they are expecting a seriously short but heavy trailer? I do not have a 4.10 diff either so maybe that's the prob.

Your payload number sounds low. My 2016 Silverado 2500 6.0l extended cab is good for 13,000 lbs towing (4.10 axle) and 2906 lbs payload. Look for the sticker on your driver's door frame for your payload:


And I'm towing with the GM reducer. No problems so far. It really doesn't have a lot of slop. I don't think that's really an issue.

[Gealousy]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Your payload number sounds low. My 2016 Silverado 2500 6.0l extended cab is good for 13,000 lbs towing (4.10 axle) and 2906 lbs payload. Look for the sticker on your driver's door frame for your payload:
Attachment 141337

And I'm towing with the GM reducer. No problems so far. It really doesn't have a lot of slop. I don't think that's really an issue.

Totally new to truck world I could be totally mistaken in how I understood payload.

I thought you took your:

GAWR FRT (max front axle weight)
+
GAWT RR (max rear axle weight)
-
GVWR (Gross vehicle weight)
=
Payload

So that is how I came up with 1500 pounds.

In my case it was:
4,800
+
6,200
-
9,500
----
1,500

That's where I came up with that number.

Also mine is a 3.73 ratio and a crew cab not extended which has something to do with it too I'd reckon.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Gealousy

Totally new to truck world I could be totally mistaken in how I understood payload.

I thought you took your:

GAWR FRT (max front axle weight)
+
GAWT RR (max rear axle weight)
-
GVWR (Gross vehicle weight)
=
Payload

So that is how I came up with 1500 pounds.

In my case it was:
4,800
+
6,200
-
9,500
----
1,500

That's where I came up with that number.

Also mine is a 3.73 ratio which has something to do with it too I'd reckon.

Payload is "GVWR minus actual weight." Actual weight varies depending on what kind of bling your model has, and which you don't know unless you go weigh it. That's why they give you a sticker on the drivers door. For example, a diesel engine weighs more, therefore diesels typically have less payload than gassers. See the explanation of Vehicle Load Limits (pg 9-15) in your owners manual. They call payload "maximum vehicle capacity weight."

Your towing capacity will be in a table in your owners manual (see pg 9-81).

If you don't have the manual, google "GMC Sierra Owners Manual." You'll see a PDF link about the 4th item down.

[conceptumator]

Reese is a good brand, so that shouldn't be an issue. Wouldn't it be easier to just install the adapter on your hitch using some JB Weld or something similar and then just slide the whole thing into the receiver and put the pin through it?

[danny4127]

put a small weld on it.no worry

[Ida Ratherbe Camping]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

I'm guessing the previous owner lost it. Folks tend to pull out the 2" drawbar or WDH and forget to remove the reducer. Then they drive off and it falls out somewhere down the road.

Crap! I may have just done this! Went camping last week and when we got back. I just removed my hitch and didn't pull the adapter. That was 4 days ago, wonder if it's still in there?

[Walholler]

I purchase a hitch reducer like the one shown in pic from of all places. Lowes. I only use it to tow my boat, have not had any trouble lining up the holes.

[danny4127]

i lost 2 till i welded it