2016 Expedition TV - Suspension improvement

[hunterrick]

Sumo springs.
https://www.supersprings.com/shop/css-1168/

I suggested the wrong ones before. These work on the rear. They have a different model available for the front.

Revisiting your hitch setup. Is also in order. Regardless of what people tell you, the correct way to set up your hitch is by visiting the Cat scales so you know the weights. You want most or all of the weight lost from the front with no bars, put back on the front axle with bars. There should be no obvious squat of the rear.

[zippersbs]

Originally Posted by Okejohnson

When you say the sway bar attachment, what exactly do you mean? Just want to make sure I am not making any assumptions. Thanks

On the side (next to the ball) of the hitch head there's a small ball & on the side of the trailer there's also a small ball & there's a special adjustable bar that attaches between the 2. Depending on the size, weight & length of trailer & tongue weight on whether you need 1 or 2 of these sway bars controllers. When your equalizer bars are hooked up & your unit is perfectly straight is when you install these sway bars & they take a lot of the sway out of the trailer while driving.

[Okejohnson]

Originally Posted by zippersbs

On the side (next to the ball) of the hitch head there's a small ball & on the side of the trailer there's also a small ball & there's a special adjustable bar that attaches between the 2. Depending on the size, weight & length of trailer & tongue weight on whether you need 1 or 2 of these sway bars controllers. When your equalizer bars are hooked up & your unit is perfectly straight is when you install these sway bars & they take a lot of the sway out of the trailer while driving.

Thanks. I was under the impression the additional sway bars aren't needed. This is my WDH (with round bar, 1000lb tongue, 10,000 lb trailer):

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch

I was told I would not need additional anti-sway bars.

[007matman]

No, you don't need them.

[hunterrick]

You are correct, you should not need any added sway control systems, the Fastway E2 has integral sway control. When this is properly installed, the bars should be parallel to the A-frame, i.e. not angled up or down compared with the A-Frame. The Fastway instruction talke about making measurements of the tow vehicle at the fenders to determine whether you are getting proper weight transfer. This is a very rough estimate at best. A much better solution is to go to the cat scales with tools in hand and actually weigh the rig. You need a measurement with truck alone, with truck and trailer but no bars, and finally one with the bars. With these three measurements you can tell exactly how much weight is going where. When properly adjusted, virtually all of the weight that was removed from the front axle with the trailer connected, but no bars, should be put back with the bars installed. If not, you need to adjust the hitch. You do so by adding or removing washers that change the tilt angle of the hitch head. More tilt for more weight transfer. If not enough weight is being transferred, add a washer, then re-weigh the fully connected rig with bars. May take two or three tries to get right. After you think you have the weight transfer correct, back off and look at the fully connected rig from a distance. The trailer should be either level, or slightly nose down. If not, you will have to raise or lower the ball height as necessary, then weigh again. When you get it all correct, you should have good handling, no sway, and very little or no squat to the rear end of the tow vehicle.

Good luck

[zippersbs]

Originally Posted by Okejohnson

Thanks. I was under the impression the additional sway bars aren't needed. This is my WDH (with round bar, 1000lb tongue, 10,000 lb trailer):

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch

I was told I would not need additional anti-sway bars.

I do not have that style of hitch bars, mine are the older style with the chains on the end of the round bars. So they may be different to adjust than those, sure sounds like it anyhow. The style of round bars I have you don't need all the tape measure or engineers degrees, count the loops on the chains when it looks level it's good, slap the sway bars on it & go. They've worked for the last 75 years, but I guess like everything else they've improved them & by the looks of them made them 3 times more expensive too, LOL

[Okejohnson]

Originally Posted by hunterrick

You are correct, you should not need any added sway control systems, the Fastway E2 has integral sway control. When this is properly installed, the bars should be parallel to the A-frame, i.e. not angled up or down compared with the A-Frame. The Fastway instruction talke about making measurements of the tow vehicle at the fenders to determine whether you are getting proper weight transfer. This is a very rough estimate at best. A much better solution is to go to the cat scales with tools in hand and actually weigh the rig. You need a measurement with truck alone, with truck and trailer but no bars, and finally one with the bars. With these three measurements you can tell exactly how much weight is going where. When properly adjusted, virtually all of the weight that was removed from the front axle with the trailer connected, but no bars, should be put back with the bars installed. If not, you need to adjust the hitch. You do so by adding or removing washers that change the tilt angle of the hitch head. More tilt for more weight transfer. If not enough weight is being transferred, add a washer, then re-weigh the fully connected rig with bars. May take two or three tries to get right. After you think you have the weight transfer correct, back off and look at the fully connected rig from a distance. The trailer should be either level, or slightly nose down. If not, you will have to raise or lower the ball height as necessary, then weigh again. When you get it all correct, you should have good handling, no sway, and very little or no squat to the rear end of the tow vehicle.

Good luck

Just a note for all -- this was exactly what was needed. Even after following the instruction manual I was still short 300 pounds (almost 10%) on the front axle. It took 2 washers to adjust the tilt and the Expedition leveled out and drives so much better. Thanks to everyone who responded, I may still add the sumo springs or an anti-sway bar, but for now all is good.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by zippersbs

They've worked for the last 75 years, but I guess like everything else they've improved them & by the looks of them made them 3 times more expensive too, LOL

The E2 starts at $318, so I don't call that expensive for a new modern WDH with integrated sway control.