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Old 08-21-2016, 06:43 AM   #1
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6.7 EGR cooler clogged

Has anybody else had this issue I am 2,900 miles out of warranty and this bill hurts. There is very little idle time on the truck.
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:41 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by tugboat369 View Post
Has anybody else had this issue I am 2,900 miles out of warranty and this bill hurts. There is very little idle time on the truck.
I deleted mine when I bought truck
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:59 AM   #3
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6.7 what?
Driving style has caused a lot of issues.
Drive it like you stoled it. EB on all the time, dont lug the motor.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:03 AM   #4
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Never heard of this on the 6.7. That really stinks.

How many miles are on the truck? If you don't mind me asking, what is the bill going to run?
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:37 AM   #5
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6.7 what?
Driving style has caused a lot of issues.
Drive it like you stoled it. EB on all the time, dont lug the motor.
It is a FORD and this is a known issue on Fords that the EGR can plug.

Now for the instructions on the original 6.7L engine (CUMMINS) you are to use the EB 100% of the time to prevent the variable geometry turbo charger sliding vane from soot build up and preventing the sliding vane from actuating.
The only time you are to turn the brake off is when the road surface are slick with rain/snow or ice. In these conditions you could have controllability issues.
I have 100,000 miles on my truck and the EB has been on for 98% of the time. I still have the original turbo charger on the truck, and hope to get another 100,000 miles before replacement.
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:39 PM   #6
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I have the Ford 6.0 which is the king of EGR killers. My diesel mechanic told me to make sure I don't crank the engine until the glow plugs are heated up in the first 10 seconds or so, blow it out on the highway once a week from 30 to 70 MPH, (NOT while you're towing, though), change the fuel filters every other oil change, don't use that 15% bio diesel such as what Wal Mart's Murphy sells, use no more than 5% bio diesel, plug in the crankcase heater every night. I have 116,000 on mine and it's doing well.
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:51 PM   #7
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Has anybody else had this issue I am 2,900 miles out of warranty and this bill hurts. There is very little idle time on the truck.
Can you post your actual miles and hours please?

Excessive idle, lugging it, not running upto full operating temp, and poor fuel quality, are all contributors. So if you get fuel once a month and just run down to the convenience store once in awhile you may suffer. These trucks are meant to be worked. The Ford recommended additives can help.
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:52 PM   #8
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I have the 6.0 and had to have the oil cooler replaced and egr delete done last summer. $2700.00! Didn't know the 6.7 had that problem. I was actually considering moving up to the 6.7. I guess I'll stick with what I have. Sorry you have this problem. Have you checked for any service bulletins or recalls?
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:12 PM   #9
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My 2911 truck has 62,900 on it when I bought it new used it a lot to go from De to Nc a lot now for the last year from about 55,000 miles a lot of local except when pulling my camper or car trailer that totaled about 16,000 miles. Have just started in the last 4 months started going to TN about 110 miles each way every other week mostly hiway except the last 18 that is country roads.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:17 PM   #10
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I have the Ford 6.0 which is the king of EGR killers. My diesel mechanic told me to make sure I don't crank the engine until the glow plugs are heated up in the first 10 seconds or so, blow it out on the highway once a week from 30 to 70 MPH, (NOT while you're towing, though), change the fuel filters every other oil change, don't use that 15% bio diesel such as what Wal Mart's Murphy sells, use no more than 5% bio diesel, plug in the crankcase heater every night. I have 116,000 on mine and it's doing well.
Oh, ya,,,,,I forgot to mention that I haven't put a drop of diesel in my truck without Lucas fuel treatment. 3 OZ per 10 gallons of diesel. Very important!!
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:28 PM   #11
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If lugging and old Dodge didn't go together I would be in trouble. Not uncommon for me to be cruising 30-35 MPH in 6th gear. I usually shift 17-1800 RPMs...it just feels right.

I also wonder if a fuel treatment like sea-foam would prevent the exhaust smut from building. Certainly will on the combustion and exhaust side.


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Old 08-21-2016, 01:57 PM   #12
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EGR Cooler

That sounds like an excessive amount of money to repair the cooler.

Here, watch this:

6.7 Powerstroke EGR Cooler - WOW.com - Video Results
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Old 08-21-2016, 02:02 PM   #13
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I have just over 103,000 on my 2011 F-350 Dually and 6.7. The cooler had a crack in it around 80,000 so it was changed under warranty. There was no soot build up. I have been towing an 18k trailer for the last two+ years and 30,000 miles. I put in Ford's additive everyonce in a while but not on a regular basis. Change fuel filters every 10,000.

But... I just had to have the CAC tube replaced ($600) and the DEF pump/sending unit/heater ($1700) just a week later. I also paid to have the latest software updated.

Have you ever had the software updated? 2011s sucked with the original software. This newest software runs great. No more shifting issues either!

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Old 08-21-2016, 02:14 PM   #14
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Wow, John,,,,you've been through the mill. Hope it's over for you.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:43 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jim34RL View Post
It is a FORD and this is a known issue on Fords that the EGR can plug.

Now for the instructions on the original 6.7L engine (CUMMINS) you are to use the EB 100% of the time to prevent the variable geometry turbo charger sliding vane from soot build up and preventing the sliding vane from actuating.
The only time you are to turn the brake off is when the road surface are slick with rain/snow or ice. In these conditions you could have controllability issues.
I have 100,000 miles on my truck and the EB has been on for 98% of the time. I still have the original turbo charger on the truck, and hope to get another 100,000 miles before replacement.

EGR problems with the 6.7 Powerstroke are far a few between. Certainly not as common as the 6.0. I've got 267000 on my 6.0 and have cleaned my egr twice. We live a half hour from everywhere so I credit my good fortune to always being able to get the truck up to proper operating temperatures. I'm not even worried about replacing the original turbo or injectors yet and hope to get well over 350,000 miles before the rust deteriorates the cab beyond repair. Darn Wisconsin road salt! Truck is 100% stock and i do not run any additives!

Having to run the EB on your Cummins docent sound like a good design. If that was the intention of it I doubt if they would have put an on/off switch for it.

The thing to remember with every modern diesels is that they aren't meant to idle for lengthy periods of time or be used as a grocery getter. These trucks are built to work. Run them long and hot and load them down. As somebody previously said, drive it like you stole it!
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Old 08-25-2016, 05:36 PM   #16
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Bio Diesel Fuel

Have bought diesel at many stations and have yet to see one with less than 15 ppm Sulfur. Which stations sell it? Some one mentioned 5% bio diesel. Would use it if I could find it. My 2016 Ford F350 6.7 is rated for B20 but I don't use it.
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Old 08-26-2016, 12:47 AM   #17
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A splash of biodiesel in your fuel will extend fuel injector life, keep fuel system cleaner, and produce less soot which may decrease chance of EGR clogging.

With that said, I really think deleting all of that emissions crap is the best way to improve an engine's reliability and lifespan and protect your wallet in the long run.
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:45 PM   #18
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So, I have a dumb question... What is the difference between an egr delete and a plugged egr cooler? Both block exhaust from being directed into the intake, correct?


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Old 08-26-2016, 04:15 PM   #19
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So, I have a dumb question... What is the difference between an egr delete and a plugged egr cooler? Both block exhaust from being directed into the intake, correct?


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They do, with an egr delete you are retuned to not set off check engine light, in stock form with plugged egr cooler sensor readings are off, which results in check engine light, derate, etc,etc


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